20 Most Recent Maytag MFD2560HES Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator - Page 10 Questions & Answers

Hi, your bottom freezer not regulating it's temperature means you have a faulty thermostat which actually regulates the temperature of the freezer.
You have to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

Take care

Mine (same model) does the same thing. The only way I get it to work is to open the freezer, and move the metal ice lever arm up and back down again. Then it starts. But after a day, the arm stops moving and it breaks. I can't stand it anymore.

Before moving into my new house with the mfd2560hes, I had to replace an ice maker in my whirlpool refrigerator. So, I guess I'll be googling this maytag model and buying an icemaker motor replacement kit.

if I'm successfull, I'll post it here.

Good day,
The problem you have is the water valve on the bottom rear of your machine is not shutting off completely after a fill cycle.
The ice maker sends a signal to the water valve at the end of the harvest cycle to refill the ice maker cavity for the next cycle. The fill time is approx. 7 seconds then the water valve has to shut off completely.
There is an internal problem with the valve.
The valve is non-serviceable. Replacing it with a new one will solve your problem. This is a very common problem and is not limited to your brand.

There is a new replacement fan available for your refrigerator, it comes as a kit with a new mounting bracket. They had a lot of issues with this model. You can replace it yourself- it is located in the freezer compartment behind the back wall and has 3 wire connections and a clip in style mounting bracket. You may have to remove the ice maker if you have one to get the back panel out.
Good luck!

At this point I am not sure if your Auto Damper that regulates the cold air is stuck closed or if the thermistor that controls the damper is responsible. You could also be having a defrost problem restricting the air flow to the fresh food section. Look into rear of freezer to see if there is a layer of frost building on rear panel. If yes then we will need to focus in a different direction. First by manually unplugging fridge and then using a hair dryer to help speed things up. The manual also has diagnostics test that you can do to locate a problem area like thermistors or many other errors will show once placed into diagnostics. Sea Breeze

Hi,

As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

Although it will open and close in test mode the fact that it won't adjust in normal operation indicates that the control or it's connections are bad.

Probably have a bad freezer fan or the unit is not defrosting. You can easily hear the fan running.

Hi,
There are a few reasons why the refrigerator part will not cool...here are a couple of tips that will help you to figure out why the refrigerantor is not cooling...

Refrigerator not Cooling or Fridge not Cooling
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3662945-refrigerator_not_cooling_or_fridge_not

How to Defrost Refrigerator Defrost Timer Problem
http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer

heatman101

Good day,
As long as the freezer is maintaining it's normal temperature then the best method is a step by step procedure to solve your problem.

First step is to take a small paper cup of water and fill the cavity until it is near full. With the ice maker turned on, close freezer door and wait 3 hours to see if it harvests. If not, the ice maker is bad, and must be replaced. If the cubes harvest then.......
Three possibilities.
1. The water supply from the house is not delivering water to the water valve. Shut off the house at the meter, disconnect the line going to the water valve, and with the line pointed into a bucket, have someone turn the valve back on for a 15 second count. The water should come out smartly. If not, the line and it's fittings will have to be replaced.
2. The fill tube from the back of the machine that feeds water into the back of the ice maker is frozen up. You will have to remove the ice maker to visually inspect that tube. If blocked, it needs to be defrosted, but use caution. Too much heat too fast will start to melt plastic and vinyl parts you don't want melted.
If this is the case, then once cleaned out, you will have to change the water valve located in the back bottom rear of the machine because it is leaking during the off cycle.
3. If everything checks O.K. up to this point, you will have to purchase and install a new water valve, and install it.
P.S. Under very rare occasions the electric circuity in the ice maker will fail to send a signal to the water valve. Although rare, it can happen, in which case the best option is to replace the ice maker and water valve.

Put your unit on a 24 hr defrost the freezer coil is frozen and blocked with ice the fan cannot draw any chill from the freezer section.

HI. The inlet valve assembly will be the culprit, here.

The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink or at the rear of your unit). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.

The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors

Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).


Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.

Hi,
Here are a couple of tips that I wrote that will help you figure this out...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3771673-defrost_refrigerator_defrost_timer


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

heatman101

It's possible, it may be your high voltage control board, going out. If your model has one of these, it will be located on the outside of the machine, on the back.

Any time there is the sound of humming it is important to locate where the noise is coming from. Sometimes fans wear to a point that at one speed the sound as if humming. Sometimes compressors hum with more catastrophic results. Because your model is a bottom freezer it would be a good idea to open drawer to freezer and see if the sound is from fan in freezer or if pulled away from wall is the sound the fan or compressor area? I believe I will be able to locate a service manual but I will need you to help me pinpoint the location of the loud sound so we can get the sounds back to normal. Let me know if you are able to try that and what you find, Sea Breeze

is it running? place your ear against the side or the door, do you hear any humming? If yes, you'll need to test your compressor, which is a common problem with maytag bottom freezers. If its under 5 years old, it might be under warranty. If you dont hear any humming, then either the cold temp control or the defrost control have failed.

Assuming the other motors on the cabinet are running, you've narrowed your problem down to 2 things, the compressor itself, or the start device has failed. Without the proper tools you wont be able to test the compressor first. My advice, go to repair clinic . com, see what a starter will cost you, if you can find a repairman to check your compressor for cheaper than what it costs to buy starter, well there you go. Either way, if its the compressor thats bad, you wont want to spend the money to replace, unless you have a built in worth several thousand, or physical constraints of kitchen prevent you from buying new fridge.

Visit: www.FixMyFridge.net for Chicagoland Refrigerator Repair Service or read our FAQ and Tips.

How to begins on page 31 of the service manual Click Here=> MFD2560HES If you need more assistance than that let me know. If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com
Thanks, Sea Breeze

You most likely have a bad ice maker, but it also could be the ice makers valve solinoid is bad as well. You can check your ice maker by removing the front cover and at the bottom right about 1 inch up from the bottom you will see 2 holes 1 of the holes will have the letter T next to it. If you take a wire that is stripped of it's insulation at each end and put one end into one hole and the other end into the other hole it will bypass the thermistat of the ice maker and make it start. If it satrts and runs then calls for water near the end of the cycle and stops then both the icemaker and the valve are good and this would mean you have a cooling problem. A ice maker will only attempt to make ice when the thermistat of the ice maker reaches about 18 degrees.

Well firstly you need to reclaim the refrigerant from the system and to legally do that you need a special certification from the EPA. I would suggest you call in someone to do it.

Need to unplug and lets inspect the control board inside the fresh food compartment and behind control pane. Fact is it is part of the controls on that model. Look for heat or burn marks but still without signs the board may be not allowing defrost a fan or the compressor to run. If you see ice building on rear wall of freezer unplug and manually defrost so at least you will have colder temperatures until repaired. Part number for the board is 12868513 I will be back shortly with a photo or two, Sea Breeze