Top 10 Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Please disconnect power from your refrigerator before attempting the following! You will likely need an adaptive defrost board for your refrigerator. The defrost thermostat and heater is only available as an assembly and can be checked while the unit is freezing by checking the resistance with a multimeter. there should be some resistance to the heater assembly but not infinite. If the resistance is high then the heater assembly will have to be replaced. Your model has an adaptive defrost board located in the upper right hand back portion of the control panel in the refrigerator side. This cover is removed by placing your fingers in the 2 indentations at the back of the cover one on the left and one on the right and pulling down and forward. Once the cover is off there are a couple of screws directly above the lights which have to be removed and a couple of hex head screws behind the number faceplate and on the back wall near the water filter. Once these are removed the whole housing will come down the board is at the far back right. It will either be a bare circuit board or a small white box. Just unplug it and replace it with a new one. This will correct 99% of the defrost problems on this line of refrigerators.

Water is collecting on the bottom of the freezer and freezes then it becomes so much it starts to leak out side the freezer door. get about 1/4" thick. Is there a leak some where? Take about 2 days to form.

Let me just say, your post helped me, because I realized that I was not going crazy.  But, I was able to find the manual on this frigerator, which was key.  There was one phrase in the manual that gave me help - "when the glass shelf is pushed to the rear, it will align the rear latches.
Manual from whirlpool website: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/MSB2154ARA.pdf

So, the rear latches must be installed in such a way that the sliding glass shelf not only touches them, but pushes them into the correct position.
This fact helped me to try different positions, each time testing to see if the glass shelf would do anything.  Finally, I realized that there is a triangular shaped part of the rear latch.  The hypotenuse of the triangle is what comes into contact with the little nub on the underside of the glass shelf.  The nub on the glass shelf pushes the rear latch along the hypotenuse of the right triangle, and into the correct position.
Here is a picture of it installed in my frigerator,which I am sure will tell it better than any words:

21.3 ohms is just fine for a defrost heater. this heater is low wattage since it is an adaptive defrost. you could have problem with temperature sensor since you have replaced the board already.

tnx for using fixya,

drcool

There is no problem at all. The outside of the freezer is hot because it is rejecting heat from the inside of freezer compartment to the outside surroundings, this is a normal refrigeration cycle. As for the seals being hot, this may be to prevent the door from freezing shut. i know that commercial and industrial freezers have heated seals for this reason.

its not a timer , but an adaptive defrost control board, in the upper rigth hand side of refrig compartment, atop the control housing heres the part number 61005988

Hi: Meat and other frozen foods will be rock solid at 32degrees. Ice cream will be soft it needs 0degrees to be hard. It sounds like your freezer is above 0 degrees. You tried the adjustments. Make sure the coils on the bottom are clean. They will warm a ref if they are dirty. A coil brush from the hardware store or a air compressor (plan on dusting the house when done. Just vaccuuming the front isn't enough. That's an older model but one of the controls affects both the freezer and fresh food. When it's running turn one down; if it turns off the compressor it affects both. The other control is just an air balance, to direct how much air gets to each compartment. I hope this helps, Jeff

I really believe your adaptive defrost located inside the fresh food compartment and inside the control panel is defective. It puts your refrigerator on a timely defrost and if defective this problem you listed in your post happens. Yes we may need to also check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat but with my experience with that type of Adaptive Defrost Control is famous for its failure.
ADAPTIVE DEFROST CONTROL Part Number 61005988 You can find it located on two of my websites. Some models like yours came with a Defrost Timer. We will need just look inside the control panel and see for sure. Here is a photo of the Adaptive defrost. If you should need to contact me please send an email or try to answer here. Problem is I don't get notifications when someone comments. [email protected]
Please rate and ask me as much as you like. Thank You, Sea Breeze
Part 61005988

http://appliancepartseast.blogspot.com/

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

The cheapest are on amazon, and they are about 200$ (150$+). Take a look here: Amazon com maytag compressor. I hope this was helpful. cheers

Amazon com maytag compressor

amazon.com

Amazon com maytag compressor

the popping noise you're talking about, could it just be your self-defroster in operation,sometimes if there a lot of ice and it operates a long time, there could be expansion noises,such as the refrigerator walls expanding/contracting from the heat of the defroster,if it's water you will hear a sizzling popping sound,nothing to fear dear