20 Most Recent Samsung SyncMaster 204B 20.1" LCD Monitor Questions & Answers

google fails to find it did you try? the maker does not offer that so is a hacking questing

First of all plug another monitor to the VC on your PC and do the same for the SamSung"I over heat"SyncMaster2 053BW.
Oct 23, 2009 - This is how it went for me..I have a Samsung SYNCMASTER 2053BW. I leave my monitor on and let it hybernate when I shut down PC. I'm 3 months outside of my warranty. Two weeks ago something started happening. I boot PC and video doesn't come up for 10 minutes, and when it came up it worked perfect. VC/Monitor/MB?? It became 20 minutes and ...now..I have the analog/digital box in top left screen, power light on monitor flashing, no menu available on monitor and none of the other buttons work for anything. I test the monitor on Laptop..nothing(same as above)..I break out the old(working) monitor from deep within the closet. Plug it in and I'm up and running. So...

HOW TO OPEN A SYNCMASTER 2053BW

NO SCREWS!!! Assuming that the stand mount has been pulled out..The seam around the screen frame is where you start. The frame has the prongs, the back cover has what the prongs slip over.The frame is coming off first! I got the side to open by finger, then used a small standard screwdriver to pry ever so gently(lifting frame from rearcover). Leave the power button assembly on the frame, pull wire only a little to relax any tension..you get about 3/4" in extra taped to panel. The hard part is done.;) Still holding the frame...Now lift the panel (where the power button assembly wiring goes under panel) with the power housing that is under it as a whole and you will see where the powerbuttonassemble detaches.Remove frame. Now..holding edges of panel into back cover, lift and flip the whole thing over and place panel face down on a perfectly flat surface..a towel on my desk works. Lift and remove back cover.Your now looking at the back of the board housing. The ribon is simple, on the panel end of the ribon, squeez the outer clips together and slide it away against the panel..The secondary tin plate is removable, two clips super close to where the sets of wires come around the housing and into the panel.Unhook the 4 plugs(pink inside/blue outside)...Now lift the power housing off of the panel. The big board has the power. One screw to remove a ground plate first. Two screws to remove power board. Pics from phone.

Reassemble but DO NOT re-snap the frame into place....yet... Test it! There is a reason the caps got hot in the first place, therfore it has a good chance of happening again. This is not fullproof...but.....mine has been on now for close to 6 hours with no glitches whatsoever. So I have resnapped mine back together. I hope you can too. - I must also add that this is one of the best producing monitors I have ever seen...in 60hz. The clarity is top notch. If you purchase one get the extended warranty. FYI...I paid $4.00 for those caps.

this sounds like it may be just a resolution problem. Make sure your drivers are up to date and set the resolution to 1600 x 1200

Try the plugging the setup into a different monitor to eliminate the lead however it sounds like the monitors died. With cost of screens even if you can get hold of one you'll be better off getting a new monmitor.

change the inverter if it does not work ,you will have to change the backlight bulbs or you change the screen

Hello,

Don't use a sharp knife, it will slip and may cut you very badly. We use a small craftsman flat blade screwdriver with a tip about 1/8 inch wide. Start at the bottom but away from the control panel in the center of the unit. The front cover fits over the back part so when you insert the screwdriver tip go from the back to the front. You will have to press down and slide the tip from the back towards the front of the unit. The case should separate a little bit. Once the tip gets between the 2 halves then apply a bit of pressure by lifting the screwdriver. The plastic catch closest to the tip should pop apart and the case should open just a bit. Hold the front case apart from the back and move the tip down the edge just a bit and pry up again and just work your way around the edges. After the first one or two the rest will release easier. after the case comes off check our site to see how to get to the electronics boards at www.ccl-la.com


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Buddy
Corporate Computer
www.ccl-la.com