Fridge keeps beeping or buzzing: The following is for Frigidaire models but others can be addressed similarly.
Several Frigidaire refrigerator models have an electronic control panel on the freezer door the owner can use to adjust the internal temperature, dispense ice and water and receive notification about issues such as the need to replace a water filter. The refrigerators also emit a beep for various actions and as an occasional alarm. Determining what causes the beeps necessitates some troubleshooting.
Temperature Controls
·A Frigidaire refrigerator's display panel blinks when the control panel is touched to set temperature controls. After pressing "Freezer Temp" or "Refrigerator Temp" on the keypad, press the arrow buttons within five seconds to increase or decrease the desired temperature. If you do not press the arrow buttons within five seconds after pressing "Freezer Temp" or "Refrigerator Temp" on the keypad, the refrigerator beeps to indicate the current setting will stay in place.
Door Open
·When you leave the refrigerator or freezer door open, the refrigerator beeps. Also, the "Door Ajar" indicator illuminates on the appliance's display panel. Shutting the door and pressing "Alarm Reset" stops the beeping and turns off the "Door Ajar" indicator light.
·The Frigidaire refrigerator has a control lock feature that prevents use of its control panel or dispensers when the unit is locked. When the control lock is active, a beep sounds when a keypad or dispenser is pressed. Release the control lock by pressing the "Control Lock" icon for three seconds. A beep will sound, and the icon's light will go out.
Power Reset
·A power reset is occasionally necessary if the Frigidaire refrigerator's control panel does not work normally or a reset function on the keypad does not work. A power reset involves disconnecting power to the refrigerator by unplugging its power cord from the electrical outlet, waiting 30 seconds and plugging the power cord back into the electrical outlet. When the control panel resets, a beep sounds. If the refrigerator beeps even after a power reset and the beeps' source is not known, contact Frigidaire.
Read more :
Cause of Beeping Noise in Frigidaire Refrigerator eHowRefrigeration System Basics Chapter 1
Fridge/freezer freezing up- and no fan or air circulation:
first check the defrost terminator thermostat it may have gone out. Thus not allowing the heating element to melt the ice.
AT TIMES The fan usually stops working AND CAN MAKE FUNNY NOISES AS WELL due to ice obstruction when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature.
May also need to check the defrost timer, The defrost timer is usually found behind the front grill "toe kick" of the refrigerator. Or in the fridge compartment near middle top section.
u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS .
Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?
ALSO CHECK THE AIR FLOW VENT SYSTEM and THERMISTORS At times it can get stuck to far closed or open. Some units feature a digital electric adjusting vent system while others are manually set. Check for any ice build up or other obstruction in the vent damper, see if u can manually open or close it. Some times when u have the settings set to the highest it closes off one area while allowing to much cold air flow to the other area!
THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 1300 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting
Check that the return air duct near the bottom of the fridge is not blocked. The air may be going into the fridge but cant get out. It has to complete a cycle where it gets drawn back into the freezer to get cold and then gets blown back into the food compartment. The baffle controls how much or how little cold air goes in. You may have to take the rear panel off the inside of the freezer, there may an ice buildup in there.
I think you mixed the F and the D in the model# so it should read MFD2561HES instead.
There are a few things that can cause an ice maker to stop working. Firstly, would be the temperature inside the freezer not being cold enough. It should be as close to 0' F as possible.
There is an inline fuse that sometimes, but rarely blows. When you changed the icemaker, did it come with a new harness or did you swap the one off the old icemaker onto the new one? Removing the harness and ohming the black wire ( The one with the white piece that clips onto the bottom of the icemaker) will determine if that fuse is still good. Without knowing what happened to the old icemaker, I would not rule that out!
More commonly, The water solenoid goes bad and will let the icemaker cycle without giving it water. Sometimes it goes completely dead while most often it fails to close completely. When this happens, it allows water to "drip" and usually freezes inside the water fill tube. ( Think of your kitchen faucet.. When they start to go bad, they will not shut off and needs to be jiggled to stop it from dripping) If this happens, the fill tube will need to be defrosted after a new valve has been installed. Defrosting the fridge is recommended as you can damage the inside if you use a hairdryer or some other form of rapid heat.
The sizzling sound you hear is most likely the fridge in its defrost cycle. During this time, you would not hear it running and it would get louder when the freezer drawer is opened. It would sound similar to water drops hitting a hot stove. This is completely normal and happens randomly! Do not panic over this!
It may help to take the ice maker plastic unit out of the refrigerator and rinse with warm water, then dry. There may be ice blocking the flap from closing. Also, check to see that the plastic unit is fully seated as it should be in the refrigerator itself.
Unplug it for a couple of minutes, Try again. It may have been hit with a surge. IF that is the case, you are looking at main control board and some money. Contact your homeowners insurance if a surge has damaged it.
This site shows the small tabs on the lense https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Large-Part-Image?imgID=1003776&locID=3336 A small screwdriver gently pull back in the opposite of the tab. Try with just fingers first as ofthe lense is too cold the tabs can snap off.
Fridge Warm Defrost Thermostat Testing Troubleshooting
