20 Most Recent Nikon D3200 24.2 MP CMOS Digital SLR with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 AF-S DX VR NIKKOR Zoom Lens Questions & Answers


Hi, Tina,
Hope I can help - it's quite simple really. Shutter priority means that you set the shutter speed (as in 1/30 sec, 1/60 sec etc) and the camera sets the lens aperture (as in f4, f5.6, f8 etc). It is up to you to choose the ISO rating, but for action I would use either ISO 200 or ISO 400.
If you use a slow shutter speed (such as 1/30 second) you will need to use a sturdy tripod to support the weight of the camera and lens (you've not specified which lens you are using, so I'll assume a zoom with a maximum focal length of 200mm). You will also need to use a remote release to fire the shutter, in order not to impart camera shake.
By using a slow shutter speed, you will automatically impart blur to the image - check on the monirot, and if the image is too blurred, choose a faster shutter speed (i.e. 1/60 second) - don't forget, the camera will take care of the aperture.
The angle from which you take the photos will also affect the result - if you are 'head-on' to the action, then there will be little sign of movement, whereas if you shoot from the side, then movement will be across the frame and will show to a far greater effect. A compromise is to stand at about 45 degrees to the action, so you get movement but the subject is still identifiable.
For frozen motion, just select the camera's fastest shutter speed, which on your camera appears to be 1/4000 sec. You will need to increase the ISO rating as well for this to be usable, especially on a less-than-sunny day - ISO 800, or even ISO 1600 may be necessary. I am assuming you do not have access to infra-red remote triggering equippment, so you'll need your remote release again. As there is a perceptible time-lag between deciding to fire the shutter and actually doing so, anticipate where you want the subject to be in the photo, then fire the shutter before it reaches that point.
Some people like to use burst shooting mode to ensure that get a selection of images, from which they can choose one or more, but since this is a college assignment, I would suggest practising until you can pre-visualise what Cartier-Bresson termed 'the decisive moment'.
Panning fills some people with dread, as it is the least predictable way to capture motion, yet can provide the most spectacular images. The camera will need to be hand-held for this - as I am sure you know, received wisdom states that when hand-holding a camera, the slowest usable shutter speed is the reciprocal of the focal length (i.e. for a 200mm lens, a shutter speed of 1/250 sec is considered the minimum) - this is to prevent camera movement during the exposure. With panning, we actually want camera movement to be plain, so choose a shutter speed of 1/60 sec or 1/125 sec. Again, a high ISO rating will be helpful - say ISO 400 or ISO 800. This is to ensure a reasonably small aperture, thus increasing depth of field.
Panning usually works best when the subject is parallel with the photographer, or maybe a little before this point, and the technique is very simple. You merely look through the viewfinder at your subject, making sure it is approximately in the middle of the frame, and, continuing to swing the camera at the same rate as the subject is moving, release the shutter just before the point you have selected as likely to give the best result. With a DSLR, of course, everything goes black as the mirror swings up, but it is vital to keep panning smoothly, because now is when the image is being recorded.
When the mirror returns to its usual position, if the subject is still in the viewfinder, there is a very good chance you have taken a successsful shot. Well Done !!
You haven't specified the subject matter for this assignment, but unless you are on safari in Africa shooting Klipspringers, chances are they will be people or pets. People are easiest - on a running track, they travel at a reasonable speed, and you have the chance to make adjustments in between each lap. Cyclists, unless on a velodrome or short city-centre circuit, pass less frequently, and at a greater velocity. Racing cars - possibly a little optimistic for your first attempt. Dog or horse shows may provide suitable subjects as well.
Main thing is - practice ! That is the great advantage of digital - instant replay, to check for areas to be improved, and almost unlimited storage. One final bit of advice - although RAW gives better results, JPEG writes to the SD card far faster, so you won't miss the one perfect shot of the day waiting for the data to be written to your card. Good Luck !!
Tony

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Sep 30, 2016


try cleaning the SD card contact with q-tip dipped in alcohol. the let it dry good .

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Feb 15, 2016


1) reset your camera from the menu .. check manual to do it.
2) guide mode must have sub modes like black and white etc .. see if your had kept in B/W as your settings.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jun 26, 2015


A bit unclear question . As far as I understood you should take out your memory card .. copy any existing files to laptop using external card reader . Then format the card within your camera itself. Then reset the settings again. I think your problem will be solved

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jun 26, 2015


Seems to be a lens autofocus problem.. lens needs repair. If your camera has inbuilt motor.. take it to service as soon as possible

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jun 25, 2015


Look.. go to menu , find flash option .. enter it.. go for TTL option in flash . If you are trying to do manual settings then you have to understand flash power before every shot. TTL mode will automatically decide the flash settings for you.

Every camera has a flash sink speed.. above which it will not work.. and you will have either black bands on the image or full black . So shutter speed should be maximum 1/200 or 1/250 (which ever is your sink speed) . Check the manual ..

Another option for malfunctioning flash can be due to improper opening of the popup flash head. Many a times if the spring used in the flash gets weak and cannot lift up the flash completely. So the flash won't trigger and you will have an under exposure or black photographs.

Too much bright flash can be also due to the circuit problem , but this is very rare and can be rectified by a service center only.

Check if any of the above guidelines can help you and inform.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jun 25, 2015


Yes , use only compatable memory card.. of your are unable to take it out , it's better to take it to a service center. You can use a plastic paper cut it in shape of the slot a bit longer in size. Place it within the slot and try to pull it out.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on May 12, 2015


Check if the batteries are ok.. if not change it. There can be a shot within the circuit.. take it for a service

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on May 12, 2015


The electronic contacts on your lens or camera might be gunked and communication might not be taking place between the two.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUt-K6w7lc0

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Apr 06, 2015


Ports might have damaged the connector/motherboard of camera. Visit nikon service center for better resolution.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Feb 18, 2015


Are you sure you're turning it in the proper direction? Nikon lenses (and thus rear lens caps) screw in the "wrong" way. The lens cap turns clockwise to remove.

If it's an ordinary plastic lens cap, as a last resort you could cut it open with a knife.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Feb 01, 2015


The edge-to-edge sharpness of your lens is a function of the optical design much more than f-stop. What I would be more concerned with is depth of field. The important consideration is what the closest and farthest point you want to be in focus. Here are some figures that might help. For a 300mm lens focused at 200 yards (600 feet), mathematical calculations yield the following (0.03 mm circle of confusion in all cases):

f/22
Near limit = 256' 3", far limit = infinity, total depth = infinity, hyperfocal distance = 447' 5"
F/16
Near limit = 303' 9", far limit = 24,350' 8", total depth = 24,046' 11", hyperfocal distance = 615' 2"
f/11
Near limit = 359' 2", far limit = 1,821' 3", total depth = 1,462' 1", hyperfocal distance = 894' 9"
f/8
Near limit = 403' 4", far limit = 1,172' 2", total depth = 767' 10", hyperfocal distance = 1,230' 4"
f/5.6
Near limit = 447' 4", far limit = 910' 12", total depth = 463' 8", hyperfocal distance = 1,757' 7"

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jan 24, 2015


If it's not fast enough and your camera is set on continuous shooting it is most likely tou SD card that isn't fast enough? Try to get another one and be sure to get a Class 10 uhs-1 card. Also if your shooting in Raw it will slow you down a bit as well.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jan 23, 2015


Normal, when you hook up a camera to a computer, you can't use the sensor. The camera is ready to use the USB cable for transferring pictures from the memory card to the computer. But Nikon does have software for DSLR's, to do live view on a computer screen. You can The software called Nikon Camera Control Pro, allows you to change settings on the camera from the computer.
The software will set you back something over $100, so I think a normal webcam will cost less.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jan 23, 2015


If you are shooting in any other mode that full auto (the green symbol on the wheel) your flash probably wont pop up on it's own? If your in manual mode you need to push the little flash button yourself to pop it up. And one mode on the dial is no flash mode where the flash won't pop up at all.

Nikon D3200 24.2... | Answered on Jan 22, 2015

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