There are roughly 4 thermally operated limit switches on most dryers. Almost all are normally closed. To test, UNPLUG DRYER FROM THE WALL, then remove back. You will see a single wire going to and coming from each of the switches. Unplug one side only and then meter the switch for continuity. It should read very close to zero ohms. If the reading is very high or open, you have found the problem. Replace with one of the same rating most of these attach with two screws and are not polarity sensitive since they are acting simply as an 'on-off' switch. Your local appliance shop will have one. Have your make and model of dryer handy. The pics below are just to show you what they look like, not the exact part that you may need for your dryer.
You will be needing to replace the timer assembly, which is the part that has all the wires attached and is found inside the top of the machine. It is what the dial is fastened to.
Be blessed.
Sounds like a prompt of some type...waiting for an input like to 'open the door' at end of cycle. Not sure myself but do believe the answere is in the customer service manual you received with the new machine. If you do not have one, go on line to get one.
even though the you might have a new dryer the vent line could be blocked with lint,or there are other parts that could go on a gas dryer,bad thermal fuse,gas coils,ignitor,sensor one of the thermostats,the only way to tell is to get in there with a meter,unplug the dryer remove at least one of the wires on the part you're checking and check the parts for continuity.that's a neptune those are the machines that put maytag out of bussiness a few years ago,i don't think it's new.you can go here and look up the parts i told you to check,if you need anymore help let me know.
unplug the dryer,open the door,remove the two phillips screws that hold the door on,the screws are in the middle of the hidges,look at the other side and remove the two screws that are there,pull off the front panel grabbing it at the top where the top screws were and pull forward the bottom of panel is on clips,just slide the panel up off the clips,now spin the drum until the baffle that you need to repair is in the lower right hand corner and you can get to it there.if the holes are to big for the screws add a washer to stop the screws from falling through the holes,sometimes the screws get ripped through the holes making the holes to big for the screw heads and a washer needs to be added,let me know how you make out
Very common problem. The solenoids when cold will sometime work once then get hot and fail. Replace the coils. I made a short video which shows how it works and how to replace the coils on a similar dryer with the same type of solenoids: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
The first thing that comes to mind is that you are experiencing a ground fault. If you have any knowledge of electronics I try cracking open your control panel and trace down your ground lines and see if one hasn't jarred loose over time
After 15 years of service I imagine it will be hard to get the parts you want to repair it.. Newer machines may not dry as quickly as the older types but they use less power to do so.. Consider a new machine for the sake of the economics of the problem