20 Most Recent Maytag PYE2300AY Electric Dryer - Page 8 Questions & Answers

maybe the drum rollers,Tim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+maytag-atlantis-drum-removal+repair.htm


http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-tears-clothes+repair.htm

I would guess door switch if not then the motor, here is a website that might helpTim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-tumble+repair.htm

maybe the timer motor, here is a website that will help, Tim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm

Bypass the switch to see if is indeed bad. If the switch is good take look at the blower wheel. The blower wheel on these machines gets to slipping and that causes overheating longer clothes drying time. It eventually cause the thermal limit to die.

Pop the top to get to the limit. The same screw that holds the limit to the side of the
heater also is what holds down the element. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If it has a start capacitor it could be the problem. If the cap. is ok or don't have one the motor most likely has a bad bearing and is draging and can't quite start. If something is causing the drum to turn too hard that could cause a problem too. Maybe a drum bearing or roller I don't know which one it has. Hope this helps.

HI. There are a few areas i would advise to check to resolve this issue.

The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.

Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.

If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.

A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again. The most common cause of overheating will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation assembly for build up. This will cause issues, if obstructions exists.

The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.

Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.

NOTE(If the Thermostats and fuse check out ok, replace the element. Element failure is uncommon but, it may fail in certain cases))

There is a coil pack, ignightor, and flame censor that control this. check Ignightor for cracks or a lot of white film. Either 1 of these will cause things to not work at all or partly. Ignightor may still glow but is bad still. has to get to sertain temp to let gas flow. see if the glass surface on the flame censoris clear of lint.

Must replace it cause there is a flat side on the shaft and the blower wheel matches up to it and rounded out the plastic. Take off front panel and take out the screws around the wheel to get the metal plate out of the way then it either screws on or has a snap ring and a clamp to take off now wiggle the wheel to slide it off. Install new wheel and put back together.

this link should help you out,, http://maytag.custhelp.com/

Your heating element has burned out. You can most likely replace the part by ordering it. Sears is a large carrier of appliance parts and can likely assist you better. Just write down serial number and model type and they will probably order it for you, or most likely they will have it for you. They will probably have to order it though. You'll be amazed at what you can find and order at Sears.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you fortaking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964

Hi,

If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.

Here is the rest of this tip about DryerMaintenance

heatman101

Sounds like your motor is getting hot, shutting down to cool off and coming back on. This is a motor that will have to be replaced. On some models the only other thing is could be would be the thermal link that is usually located on the back of the dryer. This would definitely be the cheaper part to replace. If possible, jumper around this thermal link, if it still does the same thing you will more than likely have to replace the motor. Good luck I hope this helps.

Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Please check this video for dryer belt replacement:

Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Hi rayconion
You have a "Dead Spot" in your Motors winding...this causes this condition.
You have two choices
1...Keep giving it a boost to start, it will be cheaper than the alternative.
2...Replace the motor
If you need to replace the motor then you can follow the instructions below for the belt replacment, but it will take you to where you can replace the motor if necessary.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Sounds like your problem may be a broken belt, or the belt may have slipped off of the motor pulley, or idler arm pulley or a faulty motor.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Note: This method works for most front loading machines.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the screws that hold the filter housing.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine, this will expose the belt and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor.
While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

If you are only getting 120v to the dryer, you still have a breaker tripped. It should be right next to the single pole 30. It takes 2 breakers to get the 240v you need to run the dryer. Try resetting another breaker expecially the ones marked 30amp. You do need to get a double pole breaker installed even for safety reasons.

door switch

This dryer is belt driven. You did not mention if the motor was running or not but, I am going to assume that the motor is in fact running and the drum is not turning. There is not a belt safety switch on this dryer so if the belt breaks the motor will run but the drum will not turn.

The idler (item5) of this drawing:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46651&diagram_id=630165#d630165

See routing here: http://www.repair-help.com/kb/index.php?article=105

The drive belt is item 5 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46651&diagram_id=695560#d695560

The top must be opened and the front panel removed to install the belt.
Here is a link to step by step "how to" instructions.
http://www.ehow.co.uk/how_7277908_do-belt-maytag-pye2300ayw-dryer_.html

Make sure to inspect the rear drum rollers wile you have the dryer open. Item 7 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=46651&diagram_id=695560#d695560
Flat drum rollers or hard to turn rollers will cause the new belt to fail prematurely.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

if you cant see a belt about 1/4" wide around the drum, there will be a mark where the belt was on the drum before it broke,remove front panel and restring belt around the drum,then replace front drum piece that holds the drum in place and then string belt around idler and motor pulleys and replace front cover