20 Most Recent Maytag Neptune MAH6500A Front Load Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers


Check for something in pump.

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 16, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question @#$%$

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question $#%TE

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question $%%%$

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question &^ERew

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question @$#RE

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question $$$$4

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source...

"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.

If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.

It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question $^$^yr

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question&^%$RT

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


This advise is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet front loader washers and dryers with a Control Lock problem.

This may or may not be an indication of a serious problem. In the majority of the cases, this is a simple operator error. Nearly all these model appliances have some sort of Control Lock feature on the front panel now. This is a designed safety feature that is used to prevent small children from manipulating the controls. The controls can be easily locked or unlocked by pressing and holding the following button on the front panel:

Whirlpool Duet Washer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.

Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Press and hold the END OF CYCLE SIGNAL button for 3 seconds.

Kenmore Elite Washer - Press and hold the DRAIN/SPIN button for 3 seconds.

Kenmore Elite Dryer - Press and hold the AUTO DRY LEVEL button for 3 seconds.

These instructions may not be all inclusive for all Kenmore and Whirlpool models, but they are the most common. Chances are, if you have a Control Lock feature, the instructions will be printed on the front panel adjacent to the button that is required to lock or unlock the controls.

NOTE: These instructions may also work for newer model Maytag, Hotpoint, Admiral and Fridgidaire model front loaders as well. Refer to your owner's manual or front panel for instructions pertaining to your sepcific model.

If the Control Lock feature will not lock or unlock the appliance, unplugging the unit for AT LEAST 30 minutes is recommended in order to reset the main control board. In many cases this is all that is required to correct momentary glitches.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.##@@@@

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Oct 01, 2010


switch the power off for 1 min. then plug power back in and select spin cycle.(to get rid of the water. When all water is gone and drum starts to spin, switch off again. Select the normal wash you use all the time and see if all is ok.

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Sep 30, 2010


Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often interrelated..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out thistip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkoutthis tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Sep 16, 2010


Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. Error Lr means locked rotor, this issue occurs due to locked rotors, you'll need to check the rotor wiring and windings. If the wiring is good and windings are not burnt then you'll need to replace your motor and motor control board. These are sold as one unit, it is a 3 phase motor and one of the phases is bad. A little power surge can damage the boards. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved else post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Sep 07, 2010


If it is making a sound like a loud rumbling sound similar to a jet plane taking off, it probally due to the seal has failed causing water to leak into the bearings. The bearings begin to rust, and no longer round and the noise gets progressively louder. It can be rather expensive to fix. Get a few estimates before deciding whether it is worth fixing.

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Aug 30, 2010


Hi
Older top load washers use a belt to drive to transfer the energy from motor to drum. However, if the belt slips, stretches, or breaks, it can cause friction and a burning smell, most likely a burning “rubber” smell. The belt is located either from the back access panel or from the underside of the washer.

The solution is to replace the belt with a new one. To replace the belt you can open the back lid of the washer. Remove the old belt & remove the bolt holding motor. Now remove the motor, remove & replace the 2 plastic isolators with the new ones supplied with the belt on the motor spindles. After re-installing the motor & bolt adjust the new belt.

Please post back for any further assistance.

Daniel

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Jul 26, 2010


The issue is within the pressure switch and it needs replacing to address it. The wash side circuit in the pressure switch is closed during the drain and spin increments after the main wash, first rinse, second rinse, and extra rinse increments. When the water level drains below the wash full level, the circuit will close and energize the pressure switch input. The machine control interprets this as a signal not to energize the water valve outputs to measure how quickly the washer is draining.

In your case, the water valve outputs are energized because the machine control did not detect the wash side circuit in the pressure switch close. Replace the pressure switch.

Remove the rear access panel to access and replace the pressure switch. It is mounted on the bracket molded as part of the pump assembly. Place a towel beneath the pump and remove the plastic bag covering the pressure switch.

Press in the locking tabs on the back of the pressure switch then pivot the pressure switch off the pump bracket.
a82cc7d.jpg

Grasp the pressure switch and lift the nipple from the pump cap.
049015a.jpg

Install the new pressure switch in reverse of the aforementioned steps and reposition the plastic bag onto the pressure switch.

Please indicate the exact model number of the washer if the outlined procedure is not applicable or if you need further assistance. You don't have to accept or reject and rate this post to add information or post comments and follow-up questions. Accepting a solution does not stop you from communicating with an expert. You can continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Jul 21, 2010


Water sensor level fault. Water level in the machine is believed to be above the overflow level. When this condition is detected, the machine will automatically begin pumping water out of the machine until it falls below the overflow level. First check to see that water valve is not stuck. If water valve is OK, check water level sensor.

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Jul 13, 2010


I have this problem with my Siemens machine, it is due to mainly running low temp washes and bateria building up in the hoses etc. (more prevalent if the machine is connected directly to the sink and not on a stand pipe). I run a 90 degree cycle every 4 weeks with the machine empty except for two capfuls of baby sterilisng fluid (approx half a mug) I buy stores own as it is cheaper than miltons. The first time I did mine I ran the cycle twice to be sure it was cleared out. My machine is six years old and the first smelly signs were when it was about a year old, I run the maintenance wash religiously ever 4 weeks and run a machine descaler such as oust thru every 4-6 months. Hope this helps. Roni. (ps don't be tempted to use bleach as it foams up and can cause more problems!!)

Maytag Neptune... | Answered on Jul 06, 2010

Not finding what you are looking for?
Maytag Neptune MAH6500A Front Load Washer Logo

230 questions posted

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Maytag Washing Machines Experts

jimorris77

Level 3 Expert

411 Answers

Sheldon Dedek

Level 3 Expert

909 Answers

Bill Long

Level 3 Expert

606 Answers

Are you a Maytag Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

View Most Popular

Neptune Maytag

  • Neptune Maytag

Most Popular Question

water coming out bottom door

  • Washing Machines
Loading...