Maytag Neptune MAH6500A Front Load Washer - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

have you tired resetting it by unplugging it for 5 minutes? if that doesn't do it then it is time for a washer repair technician to look at the problem.

If you don't leave the door open when not in use and not wipe the door dry and the door gasket dry, mold will build up as there is no air to let the moisture escape into. Makes sense, manufactures do no not say this in their manuals, I think they should !

i think this one is the one with the clutch. if it does it b4 it spins. put it on a spin. if it doesnt spin, u need a clutch. under the unit the belt is whapped on it

check the carbon brushes on the motor

Make sure it's the motor making the noise and not the transmission. Motor is part 18 on this diagram.
http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=MAH6500A&SearchTerm=motor&RefineSearch=0

Check the drain hose and clear it from any debris that might be blocking the water from draining out completely. If the drain hose is clear of debris, check and clean the pump. Disconnect the machine from the power outlet before servicing for safety purposes.

Remove the rear access panel to access the pump and disconnect the wiring harness from the terminals of the drain pump and the pressure switch.

Loosen the clamps holding the drain hose and the tub hose to the pump assembly. It is a good idea to spread a towel under the pump before loosening the clamps.

Remove the hoses and rotate the pump assembly counterclockwise to release the pump assembly support legs from the keyed slot in the base of the washer. Remove the pump assembly from the washer.

Clear the pump impeller from any debris that might be causing it to work improperly. Clean the tub and the drain hose.

Reassemble the pump, the hoses, and reconnect the wires to the terminals of the pressure switch and the drain pump. Reinstall the rear access panel and run the machine.

Replace the pump (part #25001052) if water still do not drain out completely.

Remove the plastic bag covering the pressure switch. Press in the locking tabs on the back of the pressure switch and pivot the pressure switch off the pump bracket.

Grasp the pressure switch and lift the nipple of the pressure switch from the pump cap.

Install the pressure switch into the new pump assembly in reverse of the steps above.

You need to clean out the lint fron the inpeller inside the machine and the hose that exits the driyer

check the vent.

if outlet pipe is connected to u bend under sink it is possible back flow. for smell use soda crystals and put machine onto wash cycle, this may help

For being 10 years old...I'd say R.I.P Neptune. A 10-year-old dryer is going to cost you more in repairs than the cost of a new machine! And even if it is cheap enough to fix, the parts may be no longer available. I used to work at the Harrisburg PA Sears Parts/Service Center...trust me...I know.

Wash it with bleach, that will kill the mold dead. do it once a week when you wipe your washer down you will be in charge of the mold

Sorry, just as you explained bad news it sound like the bearing are giving out and would req an overhaul the possibilty of an very expensive repair.

Hi


Thank You for using FixYa. If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.



Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

not spinning and getting all water out at end

Sounds like you may have a bad water valve. Go to http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=mah6500&searchTerm=img_54050&RefineSearch=0&imgMfg=Maytag&Page=2 and the water valve will be #14. You can check to see if this is the problem by running a load. After the machine is finnished adding water in the rince cycle, turn the water off to the machine. Let it finnish spinning. Then look to see if the water is still coming in. When a water valve goes bad it can act funny in many differant ways. Your sonds like it may have trash in it that allows it to leak water some of the time. Good luck

Press and hold the start button to release the door (if the door locked light is lit).

No the bearings come as a sealed unit on the tub.

You may have a screen in the inlet side of your fill hoses. There is also a screen just inside the valve. Turn off the hot and colt water shut off valves. Start a cycle on warm wash to be sure both shut off valves are completely closed, and to relieve the pressure within the hose. Remove both hoses at both ends. If there is a screen in the hose connection...remove them, clean them and carefully reinstall them. The screens in the washer valve will be just inside the valve where the hose connected. Carefully remove, clean and reinstall them. Connect hoses back to washer and shut off valves using care not to cross thread. This will damage the connections and require replacement of the valve. Do not over tighten. Once all connections are secure, turn the water back on slowly and check for leaks. If you are uncomfortable doing this repair, it is a very inexpensive repair when a tech does it for you. Watch him or her do it, and do it yourself next time.

jf you have removed the pump i can assure you the water is out
what you may be hearing is the liquid balance ring on the tumbler front
if it sounds like running water when you turn the tub, it means your balance ring is working'
it is there to keep the machine balanced and is sealed in the ring

there is a drain hole at the very bottom of the sump
about 1/4 in
if you ahve any other holes you will need a new boot
there is no real way to patch them, most patches will not flex enough to stay in place
ive included the part number you can order from sears
22003070
the best way to get one over on sears is to order it
then you cazn either fix it kinda hard but id walk you through it
or when the part arrives shedule service, just tell them its leaking

only when the tech gets there tell them you have a boot
sears hates self diagnostics and you will go to the bottom of the list