20 Most Recent Maytag MAH2400A Front Load Washer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Unplug and wait a minute then plug in if nothing check for a breaker tripped in your electrical box

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
No promises but try this!

I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Your unit does not see the door lock circuit, check the door to see is tabs are broken or missing. If you don't see anything broken or missing, replace the door lock. Part number 34001011
Door Lock
You can order this or go to your local part house and get this part you need.
I hope this helps I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Hi

ND=-no drain error.
Remove the back panel you will see the pump. Simply remove the pump and remove the obstruction that is keeping it from draining. Check for thongs, baby socks and sometimes hair pins or even screws can obstruct the water pump. There's going to be some water left in the pump and drain hose, so get a large towel ready. Remove screws attaching black piece (motor) to white piece (housing), pull out motor and clean the housing and motor impeller. Reverse steps to assemble it back together. If you don't hear pump running after completing the cleaning, you may need to check the wiring and/or replace main control board located inside the console. If the pump seems to be running but no water is being drained - replace pump.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.
Thank you for contacting fixya.com

It means you use too much soap and or the wrong type of soap.
Use only H E soap and the amount specified.
Remove the filter at the bottom front of the machine and clean it out.
Replace the filter and run the machine.
Use only the correct soap and correct amount to avoid future problems like this.

there is a object(coin, pen top, screw ect) stuck in the drain pump and rubbing on the impeller

“E3” code – Machine control is attempting to drive the motor but is not seeing any tach response. Visual Check shows motor is not moving. (Locked or Hall Sensor fault.)
Possible causes of ‘E3’ codes: 1. Spin drum stuck – Verify that the spinner moves freely to eliminate this cause. 2. Hall Sensor fails or is loose – When the Hall Sensor fails or becomes dislodged, the control doesn't recognize that the motor is spinning and shuts down. The result will likely be an “E3” code in the worst case, or “SUdS” if it is only getting a partial rpm reading. Check wire harness connector(s) to motor.
Hall Sensor – PCB that is located on the back of the motor that senses motor rpm. It is not a separate part, but rather an integral part of the motor.

Under the soap dish you will find a nylon - this will open the door manually - look carefully its there somewhere.

Hi

The issue is with the belt that is bad and so it makes that grinding sound, you can check this video for belt replacement and for step by step instructions on how to take it apart:

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Here are my complete guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor on washing machines in general;-0)
-------------------------------------

If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and most are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play!

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Repair manuals are only available for people with licenses for appliance repairs sadly.

This mean's that your motor has failed & needs to be replaced.Good luck

Hi,

I would suggest the interlock or door sensor is malfunctioning which will only become worse each time you have to slam the door.
Sorry but service engineer call ;-0)
John C

Hi,

Here is a tip that I wrote about how to get your washing machine door opened...

Washing Machine Door Jammed

heatman101

hello check the door seal for holes also the drain hose that connects to the pump hope it helps

regards
shaun

Hi from retired Englishman in France,

Not being funny but---- it is absolutely imperative, both for your sanity AND to protect the machine from subsequent damage, that it is 'balanced'!
All 4 feet on the underside SHOULD be firmly adjusted down on to the floor. Normally adjusting only one of the two feet at the front should suffice. Firmly rock backwards one front corner and if the machine moves then it is that foot under that corner which requires adjusting/screwing down FIRMLY onto the floor. If not that one then the other corner.

If after carrying out feet adjustment so that you are absolutely certain that the machine IS balanced/level and shouldn't rock and it still rattles around it could be that a damper/shock absorber which supports the drum is malfunctioning. This is quite rare and only occurs in circumstances where the machine has been allowed to rock 'n roll a lot for a long time.
Hope feet adjustment cures your problem.

Cheers,

John C

i also have this problem. to get the door to unlock, just unplug the washer and it should open in a min or two. you will hear a click. you may have a mini flood but at least you can get your cloths out and bail out the water. my problem started when i began using a new detergent from Tide called total care. Still tying to get the pump to work.