Top 20 Maytag MAH2400A Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

you have a device in the washer that looks like in the pic, this controls the door lock and the water level if the pipe is blocked it will not trigger the switch to turn off the water the pipe is as in pic and its in all washers, take the pipe off the valve do not blow down the pressure switch as this can damage it but blow down the pipe to the drum to push anything out in the pipe, if this does not fix the problem change/replace the pressure switch.

You have a faulty water control valve that is not closing all the way. You can go on line and research the part with the model and serial numbers.

Hello. There is an LE error that means "fill error". There is also a "tE" error that means "sump thermistor failure". You are probably getting the tE error--the thermistor is located at the bottom front of the washer tub in the center. If water is leaking from the bellow(the rubber part that seals tightly against the door), it might be spilling down onto the thermistor wires, shorting it out. With any leak, this will be an INVOLVED repair. My suggestion is to call for service--to reach anything in the front of the washer internally, the front panel must be removed--this is complex, and must be done carefully, especially if the bellow is leaking and needs to be replaced. I hope I helped you!

There are springs and bumpers that hold the drum in the center and if one of them popped off, that causes this problem. What is the make and model number

Hello. The door lock switch part number is 34001011 in case yours is defective. Usually, just unplug the unit, wait a few minutes, then plug it back in. The main board will unlock the door. On a front load washer, the easiest way to replace a defective door switch is by removing the spring clamp that holds the bellow onto the front of the unit, pulling the bellow aside nearest the lock and swapping it out. HOWEVER, putting that clamp *back on* can be a real headache--I'm able to replace the clamp by hand on the clamps with the smallest springs. The larger ones will require a threaded clamp spreader tool, available at better(larger) appliance parts dealers. If you are hesitant about attempting this, definitely call for service--if the bellow is re-attached incorrectly, it will leak or can be torn because of wrong positioning which can result in it rubbing against the spinning basket. I hope I helped you!

Hello; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician. There is a solenoid valve on the larger pump. 1.) Unplug your unit. 2.) On the back of the top cover are two screws. Remove them. 3.) Pull the cover back about 1/2" and lift the cover off. 4.) Looking down behind the dispenser you will see several components: a.) Three black rubber hoses connected to two water valves. Substitution Part Number 34001210 - Cost: $43.00 You can probably take the hose to your local Home Depot or Lowes and find a match for considerable less, if replacement is needed. 1.) Remove the hose clamps and remove the hose. 2.) Try to blow through the hose - is it blocked? 3.) Can you run a coat hanger through it to clear? b.) There are two water valves. Disconnect and clean. There is the larger one which has a solenoid valve. On the bottom of the larger solenoid valve, disconnect the two wire connectors. With a multi-meter (If you do not have one they are only about $25.00, a good investment to check electrical components) Set the meter on the lowest Ohms. Placing one meter lead on the one connector and the other meter lead on the other connector you should get a reading of '0'. If not the solenoid is bad. c.) Ok, lets not forget the sensor; Part Number 34001209 - Cost: $49.00 This is in the same area. There is no way to check this sensor if it is bad. You replace it only if all of the above is operational components check out ok.

sounds like ur o erloaded. but did u run a diagnostic test??

On what cycle is this happening or is it on all the cycles? I would shut the washer, then I would run the diagnostic first. If it does not give you what the problem is, I would then check to see if it will spin and drain. This might be the problem, it is not able to spin. this was my problem. I was told to replace the electronic board, but that was not right, I had to replace the motor, I have to look it up for you, but it was quite simple after my son and I figured out how to take the back off. The part was 265.00, but quite cheap compared to the fact we didn't need a repairman. I believe I had caused my problem by overloading the machine, which I never do again. check to see if it will spin first, run diagnostic testing then get back to me I will try to help you..

first check power to the outlet then power at the end of the power cord then it may be the control board- not cheap ($200+-)

Wax motor (Door lock mechanism) & or control board burn out. Door can be unlocked with nylon string situated in soap power dispencer at front.

These rubber grommets need to be pushed up from underneath and the. The pump housing slides out of the grooves.

ND means no drain, the water level fails to drop below the low water level in final spin.check for1 restricted drain system.2 kinked/plugged drain hose or pump3 faulty pump4 loose connections on the board or pumpif you find none of the above you have a faulty control board.hopefully you just find something clogging the pump, remove the pump completely and make sure it is not a paperclip or something like that down in the pump jamming it up so it doesn't drain, be careful and get lots of towels because there will be water in pump system.Here is the board to order in case you find that it is the problem.

The whole service guide is here: http://www.scribd.com/doc/14156367/MAH2400a-Tech-and-Tshooting-Manual

If the drum moves up/down side/side without the outer drum moving, bearings gone, replace. To check for clothing, which I doubt, remove front seal outer section, look around outer part, to bottom you probably find clip, prise apart, front back, not side ways, refit sideways

check for water left in units tub,if so check pump inlet and outlet and drain pipe in the house for foreign objects,then if clear make sure pump drain is running if it is,but noisy it may be bad,as in the impeller on the motor shaft may be loose and the water may stall the pump

one reason could be that the outlet pump is not working to full capacity leaving a small amount of dirty water remaining after spinning, the cure would be a good pump clean out or maybe replace the pump if machine is old, or another reason could be what we call back-syphoning where the washer sometimes can fill up from the house sink waste - if the washer outlet is connected to the U bend, this also is a simple cure, make a loop in the pipe or fit an anti-syphon valve, normal a cheap price from a vac store...hope i have helped - 20 years of experience doing appliances

Service Manual If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The rear tub bearing is going out, and the cost starts normally about the 450 and up range, If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

This is a fix for the Maytag MAH2400AWW, the machine kept displaying SUDS, the machine is 2-3 years old and it started doing this 4-5 months ago. I cleaned out the washer, and used HE detergent, ran it empty, to try to flush it out, used approved cleaners and ran it throught the cycle, still no good. I finally took out out a maintenance contract with BSF, the service guy came out today pulled the pump off and showed me inside it was missing half of the blades off the impeller. I remembered a year ago a coin had wedged in the pump which I took out and put back, not realising it had taken some teeth off the pump. Therefore the pump was not able to pump out the sudsy water very well which was staying inside the drum causing the suds light to come on, they installed a new pump for me, which was covered in the contract for free. Now it's working like new again.