Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

sounds like you have a transmission problem. yes, i said transmission. washers have a centrifical gearing system which acts like a transmission. what you describe sounds like a bad bearing. definately a job for the repairman. good luck

my guess would be that the internal weights that counterbalance the wash tub are broken/moved.

Is the washing machine level and the load balanced correctly

Wonderful!! Would you mind giving me a "problem solved" rating -- there should be icons on the screen to do that.

thanks...

Charlie

Your control board is bad. It must be replaced. It can not be repaired.

yes lid switch

check your lid switch if its a top load

Sounds like it's overheating, when is the last time you cleaned the vent. You should peridically (at least every 6 months) disconnect the vent pipe/hose at the back of the machine clean it in both directions with a canister vac. Also make sure the vent 'exit' on the exterior of your residence which has a flap isn't plugged or stuck in the closed position. If this doesn't help let me know and I'll be glad to help you further.

The dryer is on a different circuit as it is 240 volts. Look in your breaker box and find the breaker for it (it should be tripped half way). Turn it completely off and then back on. There is no reset button for it. Make sure the plug is securely pushed all the way into the outlet.

There is a pressure switch with a tube to the water drain. The switch may be faulty or needs adjustment. The tube may be blocked or disconnected.

Definately sounds like the belt is off. Not too big of a problem for small hands mechanics. Usual problem lately with Maytag is the spindle pulley. For some reason they haven't been tightened properly and the pulley and belts are falling off. Pull it out from the wall remove the panel and see what you've got, really simple on the bottom end. Complicated stuff is up in the control panel. Make sure you get the pulleys lined up as close to level as you can or the belt will jump off on you during spin cycles. Good Luck!

solenid valve
may be faulty.
to test disconect from the cold side and atch to the hot side,
the solenid valve is an electronic valve that switched the water on and off its usally atched inside of the back of the machine where the hose attaches to.

..
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solenoid_valve

Change the belt by calling a expert.

it only has one block fuse and should be located somewhere close to where the power cord comes into the washer. Go here www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-LSE7806A-%3d%3di435797&PartID=435797 this is what you need to check.

This could be a real simple fix. 1) Disconnect from power. 2) Take off the front panel by removing two screws near the base. 3) On the left side halfway up is a fuse that may be blown. Replace the fuse.

This worked for me when I had the exact same symptoms. Good luck.

try wiggling the bloer fan around it may have been knock out of alignment when the nail went through

that's your cycling thermostat and it's bad also check continuity of your thermal fuse (usually off white and looks like a tilted square) and check your high limit thermostat (closest to the heat element) and also check that the heat element is not broken any place throughout the coil of it. While you have it apart clean out the build up of lint everywhere.

yes that part is bad donnie change it and repost if you still have problem let me know i'll assist further

new washer have what is called a washer drain protector, in other words it's a lint catcher for washers and your model has no such part. Do you use powder or liquid detergent? It seems to me that what you see is residue from too much detergent if you use powder. I've heard others with this complaint and to no avail can figure out the cause of this, at least from a view point of a simple wash.

check the pump belt. tilt it back to see underneath or go through the back