Maytag MLE2000 Front Load Stacked Washer / Dryer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Yes to question one. No to question two. A/C Induction motors do not have brushes..

Could be the bearing or some of the Rollins needs lub
What brand it's you dryer?and is it front loader?

I suspect the blower wheel that mounts to the motor shaft is loose and needs replacing.

Hello,

I assume you are referring...that you don't know how to get the rest of the broken bulb out?

Do you have a potatoe? Hopefully, you do! Cut it in half and stick the inside of the potatoe onto the left over glass and turn it! This is the best and safest way to remove any broken bulb!

Remenber,...Lefty,...Lucy....Righty,...Tighty!

If there is a cover over where the bulb is...this cover should just pop off!

If there is no potatoe...you can use a pair of pliers, but...please unplug your refrigerator...First!

Kind Regards!

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

This is a common problem with many makes of machines.
I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener tray which is causing water to overflow into the detergent tray so it needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)
-------------------------------------
Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube but on others the cover is part of the tray's plastic top. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

troubleshoot the panel or call ur technician 4 check

The Door Locked light is not activated by the door itself but by the wax motor inside the door latch assembly. The activation of the Door Locked light switch signals the control board to advance to the spin cycle and it is done by the wax motor by extending its shaft and pushing the switch contacts together. Advancing of the machine to the spin cycle when the switch is activated manually by the S hook simply tells that the wax motor (part number 12002535) has indeed failed and needs to be replaced.

Disconnect power then unstack the dryer from the top of the washer. Open the washer door and remove the four screws located vertically along the inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to the front shroud assembly.





Disengage the front panel posts from the clips located on the face of the cabinet by grasping the upper part of the front panel posts and pressing in on the outer edges then twisting it inward.




Once the front panel posts are released from the cabinet, tilt the front panel away from the cabinet and remove it.

Remove the two 5/16" hex-head screws securing the two top cover hold down brackets; one on each side.




Swing the brackets to the outside and unhook it from the lip of the top cover then lift the top cover to the rear if the machine.




The door latch assembly can now be accessed and replaced. Reassemble the machine in reverse order of the disassembly steps.




Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Shut your water taps of at washer when you go away for long periods /you must have a small amount of water leaking pass water inlet valve of washer / You should have that replaced b/c that is the first sign that it may stick completely open at a later date/water valve is cheap compared to a flood...Hope I helped if I did please vote need more help please ask and good luck

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

Squeaking sound from the dryer comes when the belt is either broken or worn out, before replacing the belt also check the idler pulley because if that is bad then it also needs replacement with the belt. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

18lb capacity

Hello

If the washer shuts down before spin cycle it indicates that it is unable to drain properly. Please check the drain hose/drain pump filter for any clogs/blockages and try cleaning them to solve this problem. Also after cleaning check if the pump is working fine.

Kevin

you possibly didnt bend the wire boot clamp around the door bellows/boot,if this wire gets a kink in it, it needs to be replaces or it will leak,they dont cost that much,i always replace it too when replacing boot

The first thing to do is to CHECK IN AND AROUND THE RUBBER DOOR BOOT (called a bellow) for small articles of clothing (like socks and underwear) that may have gotten lodged in behind the rubber. Pull the rubber back where it meets the wash tub and look behind it. It is common for small items to get stuck here, become forgotten and start to mildew. You should check this area after each wash and clean it periodically to get rid of the formation of soap scum, mold, and mildew. HINT: When you get ready to wash a load of towels, take a dirty towel and clean the door boot thoroughly (including the areas behind the rubber). Immediately place the towel in the wash and run it on a sanitary cycle. This way you eliminate the need for cleaning rags.

PERIODICALLY RUN THE WASHER ON A CLEANING CYCLE. Place the washer on the hottest setting you have (usually a Sanitary cycle) with nothing but bleach in the wash tub. Some newer models actually have a "Clean Cycle" available now just for this purpose. This helps keep the wash tub, drain lines and pump sanitized.

CHECK AND CLEAN THE DRAIN PUMP FILTER. Accumulations of debris in the drain pump filter can also cause odors. HINT: If you own a shop vac, pull the drain hose from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum on the line. This will drain any residual water left in the tub, pump and drain lines BEFORE you remove the drain pump cover. This will prevent a messy clean up later.

LEAVE THE DOOR OPEN IF POSSIBLE. When not in use, leave the door open to allow the tub to air out and to keep mold and mildew from forming on the door bellow. I know this may not be desirable in some households with small children. If too much mildew forms on the rubber and it cannot be removed, replacement of the bellow may be required.

NOTE: This problem is common with front loader style washing machines. The doors on these machines have an air tight/water tight seal that is great for sealing the washer during the wash cycle, but can be terrible for collecting small garments and for not allowing the tub to properly air out when not in use. Following these simple preventive measures can go a long way towards preventing harmful mold and mildew, and towards extending the life of the door bellow and pump.



Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.!!%5

Have you paid any attention if the dood lock light is coming on? If not check the Machine control board on the under the top of the dryer. There is a circuit board on the right front. On the board there is a resistor identified as R11. if it is burnt then the board and wax motor on the door latch assembly need replaced. If the lock light is coming on then you could have a bad Motor / Motor Control Board problem.

I would suspect that you have a Motor and Motor Control Problem. This washer has a three phase motor in it and it could have one phase out of it or the Motor Control board could be bad. However it is recommended that you replace both at the same time with a motor conversion kit.

There is a solution inside the inner tub cover that helps serve as a balancing aid during the spin cycle. It is a normal sound on the washer. There is not a problem.

Check your vent on the back of the dryer and also make sure the vent hood on your house is opening up all the way. Something could be blocking the air flow.

If you take off the face plate where the knobs are at or if you know how to get to the wax motor you'll find a red solid cable and if you pull this cable it will release the mechanism which is keeping the wax motor engaged

more likely an itntermitent lid switch problem as the washer strats it's spin cycle the motion is causuning the lid switch to open making the washer think some one has opened the lid and it shuts down to be safe check the switch make sure it hasn't come loose and check the actuator on the lid sometimes a plastic piece near the front of the lid that goes into sort of a key hole Good Luck

Hi,
If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing Machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining

heatman101