Maytag Neptune MAH55FL Front Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

If the motor is running during the spin cycle, your belt is slipping or broken.

Hi.

There is an emergency cable that will release the door latch. To reach the emergency door cable you need to remove the detergent bezel. This will give you access to the emergency release. Turn machine off and disconnect power before starting the procedure. The latch will stay open only when cable is pulled. When you release the cable the door latch will close again.

If the machine does not work after opening the door it means that the door latch is damaged. In that case the parts in the door latch assembly must be tested and replaced.

Regards.

Ginko

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

This is a common problem with many machines.
I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener tray which needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD OR the water feed into the softener tray is not working properly. If the latter, follow these instructions and then clean the jets where the softener water is supposed to enter before calling for service;-0)
-------------------------------------
Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube but on others the cover is part of the tray's plastic top. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.

If this does not work, pull out the dispenser drawer far enough to be able to just see the softener tray, select the (final?) rinse and check that water is entering the tray. If it isn't there is a fault with the water distribution and an engineer call is required ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi.

Please read the solution in the article below:

If you have no spin ...

Regards.

Ginko.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France @ 18:17 Sun evening.

I do not know your particular washer but here are 3 things to do-

1) check to see if your washer's waste water pipe shares a sink's plumbing- quite common. If so suspect bad smells from the sink's u-tube rather than direct from the washer. Use a drain cleaner anyway even if it doesn't share and NO, I do not earn commision!!!

REMOVE POWER AND HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE AND/OR RAGS AT HAND!

2) check, and clean if necessary, the machine's lint tray/filter in case that is the source. Do that regularly anyway- I do it about every 3 months providing I remember - or my wife reminds me!
If you are unaware where the filter is it is (normally) found behind the lower front cover which is normally held in place by some plastic screws, removed by turning 90 degrees anticlockwise. The filter cover/cap is also turned anticlockwise to remove. The filter may or may not come out with the cap- if not gently persuade it out. At the same time it is possible to see and check that the drain motor is able to be turned easily by hand/finger.

3) another regular task- run the contents of proprietary anticalc sachets through the machine. Again I try to do that every 3 months- we are in a particularly 'hard' water area.

One, or all, of these suggestions should cure your problem- I hope!

Good luck,
John C

Hi

The whirring sound usually comes when the belt is either broken or worn out. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I'd call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!@#W

The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.

Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.


The LR code means "locked rotor" which is just a way of saying the control is not seeing the motor turning.

The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.

Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.

The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.

Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.

The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.


Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif


From another source..."Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.

Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 (ten being hardest) I’d call it a 3.5. If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job. It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.

Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.

Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.

The instructions are pretty clear. Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer. The instructions don’t ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier. This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.

They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board. My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor. All I did was cut the harness – since they supply a new one – then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor. As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft. The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together. There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish. Also, I couldn’t get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.

The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

A simple way to put a cleaning cycle through the machine is to fill to the highest capacity with warm to hot water and add a cup or two of bleach. Any bleach is ok, but chlorine bleach if your plumbing type allows it is stronger. TIP.....Do NOT mix any wash powder or detergent with the bleach (Check Directions)
Let the machine do it's longest wash, with soak, if it's part of the programme, and after a normal rinse you should be good to go!
Good luck....Nomess

OK Momma, Im going to give you their solution word for word in the bullitin. 1. Make a solution of 1 cup chlorine and 2 cups warm water and pour it into the dispensor slowly. 2. Wipe the lower section of the grey boot with a bleach solution and cloth. 3. Fill the bleach dispensor with clorine bleach. 4. Run the washer through a complete cycle using hot water. This is their solution. What they didn't suggest, but I do, is when the washer is in it's cleaning cycle, pause the washer for about 1 hour and go back to restart and let it finish. This way it should get rid of any odor. Good luck with this Momma...Catriver...post back.

Momma, Maytag put out a service bullitin on this problem. TB26-72. This is a common problem on your model. Why don't you google the service bullitin and it will give you the instructions they have for this problem. If you can't find it, post back and I will post them for you...Catriver...post back.

El c?digo de error "od" en una lavadora Maytag Neptune TL generalmente indica un problema relacionado con la apertura de la puerta. "od" es una abreviatura de "Open Door" (Puerta Abierta en ingl?s). Aqu? hay algunas acciones que puedes tomar para solucionar este problema:

1. Verifica la Puerta: Aseg?rate de que la puerta de la lavadora est? completamente cerrada y que no haya obstrucciones que impidan que se cierre correctamente.
2. Reinicia la Lavadora: Intenta reiniciar la lavadora. Descon?ctala de la corriente el?ctrica durante unos minutos y luego vuelve a enchufarla. Esto puede restablecer la electr?nica interna y eliminar el c?digo de error.
3. Inspecciona el Pestillo de la Puerta: Verifica el pestillo de la puerta para asegurarte de que est? funcionando correctamente. Si el pestillo est? da?ado o desgastado, podr?a necesitar ser reemplazado.
4. Comprueba el Cableado: Examina el cableado que conecta el interruptor de la puerta y el panel de control. Aseg?rate de que no haya cables sueltos o da?ados.
5. Sensor de la Puerta: Algunas lavadoras tienen un sensor de la puerta que puede fallar. Consulta el manual del usuario de tu lavadora para obtener informaci?n espec?fica sobre la ubicaci?n del sensor de la puerta y c?mo comprobar su funcionamiento.
6. Llama al Servicio T?cnico: Si despu?s de intentar estas soluciones el problema persiste, es posible que necesites la asistencia de un t?cnico de servicio. Puede haber un problema m?s complejo con el sistema de la lavadora que requiera atenci?n profesional.

Recuerda que estas son sugerencias generales y pueden variar seg?n el modelo espec?fico de tu lavadora. Siempre es recomendable consultar el manual del usuario de tu electrodom?stico para obtener informaci?n espec?fica sobre los c?digos de error y las soluciones recomendadas. Si no tienes el manual, puedes buscarlo en l?nea o contactar al servicio de atenci?n al cliente de Maytag para obtener asistencia.

Question edited for clarity. When the power came back on, or when it went out, there was probably a brown out or voltage surge. You need a service visit. You can try and claim against the utility company for not regulating their power supply to you. Are you certain you have power at the outlets? It is odd that both would succumb to it, unless you were hit by lightning?

Damaged or defective door latch

I assume the model starts with a M, not a W? Anyway, you did not indicate if the washer does not do any draining ... or it just leaves a bit of water in the chamber? No draining issue (no pumping sound): Your washer could have a faulty drain pump and motor assembly, loose wire connection in the drain pump circuit or it could have a faulty machine control board. Some draining issue: It did not look like your washer model has a built in pump suction filter/strainer that is cleanable ... but there could be some obstruction in the pump suction or in the hoses after the pump. Straighten drain hoses and eliminate kinked hoses. Watch video if you want to inspect the pump and hoses

Have you tried unplugging it for 1 hour? Yup surprisingly that is one of the answers for clearing out fault codes on this machine. Sure hope that it works even though you don't have a code a full hard reset may do it. Best to you.

Call the service guy back and tell him what you just told us.

Hello, I've owned the same Neptune since 1999 and had this problem happen to me twice, the first time the inside molded plastic door melted through in a circular pattern and had to be replaced. The fact that it was circular indicates that something was rubbing during the high speed spin. That something was a stiff bottomed duffle bag that was rubbing on the plastic door during high speed spin. The washer was full of other clothes that didn't allow the duffle bag enough room in the washer tub, hence it pressed against the plastic door. The second time it happened I got a circular groove melted in, but not through, the plastic door... caused this time by a small child's back pack. I would make sure "rigid" items have enough room to "float" in the tub cavity by not putting in other clothing that over packs the washer.

Are you sure this is not an nd and not an np flash code? If so then the code stands for no drain, likely something is clogging the washer pump inlet.

Make sure that the door switch is closing properly. If not, and it is stuck in the "open" position, the unit will not operate. Try bypassing the switch to see if it then runs.