20 Most Recent Electrolux E23CS75DSS Stainless Steel Questions & Answers

There are three variances of this model ending in S0,S1 or S3 after the last S you provided so you might have a variable speed compressor or a single speed. It sounds like a single speed. At the compressor you should have either two or four wires going into it with the light blue and the black being the line voltage (110v ac) and the smaller red and black being the low voltage signal to the variable speed if applicable (4-12 vdc) It sounds like you have a bad control board and checking voltages will tell if that is the problem. It is located behind the kick panel in the front on the left side and will usually smell/look burnt when removed. The part number may change depending on if it is a S), S1 or S3 so check with your local parts store. (get the model# off of the sticker inside the unit and not off of the owners manual as it is incomplete and sometimes wrong).

Replaced defrost timer

Good Afternoon Cecilia Soares, thank you for your inquiry! From the information you have provided the dispenser tab on your Electrolux refrigerator has snapped and you would like to repair it. I am unsure if it is repairable you may need to order the replacement part for your refrigerator. Based off the model number, E23CS75DSS, I have located a parts manual this should help you locate which part may be needed. I hope this information is helpful. -Matt Frigidaire Manual Search Results

Hey friend, thank you for your post!

You are able to purchase parts with the coating already applied for your Electrolux refrigerator, E23CS75DSS. To answer your question, there is no way to fix the bubbling issue on your appliance you would have to purchase new parts for your refrigerator. I have included the parts manual link so you can look over parts needed. Once you have those parts numbers needed you can reach out to the manufacture to order them. I hope this is helpful. -Matt Frigidaire Manual Search Results

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically

If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Leo Ponder
imufo2
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Hi

Please check this link bellow to troubleshoot your problem:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_2306100_fix-refrigerator-water-dispenser.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.Thank you for contacting fixya.com

Most probably, its faulty water fill inlet valve.But the possibilities for this problem are.The water main valve is turned to off.First check that.If its turned to on, then its not that case.The water passing line / tube is blocked or unplugged from the valve.First see, if its properly connected and not got loose, if that is not the case,m then check if its got friezed and ice got collected in that tube.If its clear, then its not the case.Then other possibility is water inlet valve.The water tube connects to the water inlet valve.If this inlet valve is faulty, then it will not let the water to enter in water section or icemaker section.The water inlet valve is not very costly part and easy to replace.Just connect proper tube to the valve, while replacing it.You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Light displays in one of three possible colors each time the dispenser is used to show status of water filter:

1. Green Water filter does not need changing.
2. Amber Water filter is about 80 percent used. Please order a new one.
3. Red Water filter is 100 percent used. Please change as soon as possible.

After replacing the water filter, reset the filter status by pressing and holding Filter Status button for 10-15 seconds. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

Hi,The thermostat - that part of your fridge that controls the temperature - may be one of the smallest parts, but of course it is also one of the most important. The thermostat can not easily be repaired - generally speaking, if you have a faulty thermostat you will almost certainly need to have it replaced.

There are several warning signs that the temperature inside the fridge is not what it should be. An obvious sign that the temperature is too cold inside the fridge is when liquids - milk, soda or orange juice, for example - are partly frozen. Similarly, if your freezer or ice compartment is kept too cold, ice will form on the outside of packets of food that are stored in there. The bottom part of your fridge is the coldest part - you can always try putting produce and other sensitive food items on a higher shelf. Ice or frost forming on the inside walls of the fridge also indicates a problem. Food that spoils before it should is also a sign that your fridge may be too warm.

Before you spend the time and money replacing the thermostat, here are some tests you can perform to see if it is the thermostat that is faulty, or some other problem. If you feel the temperature in your fridge is not what it should be, firstly try the obvious: make sure the temperature control is set correctly. The ideal temperature for the fridge should be between 38 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and for the freezer temperature between 0 and 8 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature setting may have arbitrary numbers on it, (for example 1 through 9, warmest to coldest) and simply moving this control to the next setting up or down may solve the problem. Depending on the age and make of your fridge, there may be separate temperature controls for both the fridge and freezer. Check the manufacturer's manual that comes with your fridge to find the suggested setting for the temperature control - or call the manufacturer if you don't have the manual. Most companies have a toll free help or troubleshooting number to call.

If you are technically minded, it is possible to easily unscrew the temperature dial, and then remove the actual temperature control box, taking care not to pull any wires away. You can then test the temperature control using a hand held device called a continuity tester probe. Set the control dial to its coldest setting, and then attach the probe. If it lights up, then this indicates a closed circuit with no obvious problem in the electrical system. Make sure your fridge is unplugged while you do this.

If your fridge temperature is too low and you cannot make it warmer by adjusting the thermostat, it may be one of several other parts that are causing the problem - there may be a leak in the refrigerant system, a defective air damper, or a situation known as cold air migration, which occurs in " side by side' fridge/freezer models. Poor cooling can also be caused by frost building up on the evaporator coils - a vital part of the fridge that you cannot easily see without removing a panel on the inside of the freezer. A sure sign of this is if you see slight icing or frost build up on the inside walls, or floor of the fridge. If your fridge is self-defrosting, it may be a faulty defrosting mechanism that is causing the ice or frost build-up. One way to test this, although it is not particularly convenient, is to take everything out of the fridge, leave the door open and turn the thermostat off for at least 24 hours. Once the ice build up has disappeared, put the thermostat back on its normal setting - if the fridge then cools properly, there is probably a problem with some part of the defrosting system.

There are other ways to test that the thermostat is keeping your fridge as cool as it should. A good method of accurately checking the temp over a period of time is to leave a glass of water in the fridge for 24 hours; or a glass of cooking oil in the freezer. You can also use a thermometer - a meat thermometer is good for this. Also check the door seal and the door catch on your fridge - something as simple as the door not closing fully can cause a slight temperature increase inside the fridge. And leaving the refrigerator door open for long periods of time can also cause the inside temperature to warm up.

If you are lucky though, you may never need to repair your fridge - the average lifespan of a refrigerator is about 15 years, making them one of the most reliable and longest lasting of household appliances.

check to see if water despenser is despensing water slow that normal. replace water filter . it will work ok
hope it can help u

Hi

Check the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer or evaporator fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils under the unit for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan to see if it is running.If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.You could defrost the freezer by disconnecting the power to the refrigerator and letting it sit for at least 24 hours with the doors open to allow the frost to melt completely but it will build up again in 1-2 weeks and start the warming up again.

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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make sure the old seal from the old filter didnt stay on