The main center bearing is going bad that's why it is not wanting to spin as fast and is also making the loud noise when its spinning i.e. sounding like a jet engine firing up or metal grinding noise. I would not repair this very expensive cost around $300 to $600 to fix I would go buy a good quality used one or a new one sorry for the bad news but that's what it is I see 2 of these a week in my shop same problem but hope this helps.
Sounds to me like the pump is not operating up to par. Open the machine and check all the drain lines form the tub to the pump, from the pump to the waste pipe and also, when you check the tub to pump line, feel up into the tub to make sure you don't have a article of clothing stuck in there. Check the inside of the pump too. Here is a link to a video to show you how to access the pump and lines.
The belt may just have burned, Slide the washer out and tilt it back. holding it tilted by someone or something you trust not to slide or let go. But see if the belt is broke or torn apart. Take the belt off and see if the motor shaft will free spin. You can have the motor replaced or do it your self. My opinion, if the motor is bad I would buy a new washer. The motor and installing by someone is pretty expensive.
If the lid switch is defective, your washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit won't fill with water until you replace the fuse.Here is the part you need.
As long as it isn't caused only by an unbalanced load, one of the out tub's suspension points is likely broken.
Pull the AC plug, remove the water lines (drop into a bucket), then remove the lower back panel from the washer and look for the four points near the corners where there should be either very heavy rubber bands or springs that are supposed to hold the washer centered.
One or more of these are either broken or weak.
Check the lid switch, which is commonly causing mid cycle problems. The lid switch is tested by running a cycle with its contacts jumped.
If that is not the problem the repair will get more complex. The variable spin motor or the motor coupler functionment must be checked, and so the state of the agitator, located at the base of the tub. Less common fault is the transmission box.
Check the lid switch, if that is OK, motor, transmission and agitator must be accessed and checked.
You may just simply need a new belt. If not there could be 2 other issues, like something being stuck in the drain pump, or possibly a bad motor. Does it have any strange smell coming from underneath?
Greetings,
I'll be honest and tell you sight unseen this problem could be anything...
I would first make sure your getting power out of the receptacle..try plugging a lamp in there or something to make sure...after your sure...i would check to make sure you hear the lid switch click when you close it and open it.....if you hear no click. the switch could be bad,even some will click and still be bad.....you can gain access to this by removing back timer cover and with a multi-meter check the terminals.coming out of switch..you will know you have right one as one side of power cord goes into the side of the switch.
its possible the timer is bad, or motor also, but most likely the lid switch
You could be looking at bad bearings in the transmission unit but for a quick solution: I would make a frame of wood the size of the base, make sure it's level with the floor area or shim it accordingly. Then drill some "foot" size holes for the bottom and set the machine in them. Shouldn't walk anymore...
If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.
You may have a water supply issue. Turn the water supply off to the taps, remove both the hot and cold water hoses and check the sediment screens in the hoses to make sure they are not clogged. Your issue could be any number of things but I beleive in starting with the simple ones first. Repost here and let me know how you made out.
Always take a look at the belt first. Next check your pump for obstruction or locked bearing. If it is ok then check your main drive pulley. It is suppose to release the brake for spin operation. Manual and more are HERE If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
does it do it on a spin cycle ? if so your bearings may be shot. also try running it empty if it doesn't do it then you may of just had an unbalanced load. if it dose then you probably had shot bearings.
