20 Most Recent Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

The water pump is the most common thing to cause a Whirlpool washer to leak. It is the very first thing I check when working on a Whirlpool washer leaking. First you need to take the case off. To do this, unplug the washer and take out the two screws that hold the control panel in place (one on each side, you may be able to see them in front, you may have to snap off two covers to see them or they may be on the back) then hinge the control panel up. Once its up, you should see a plug attached to the case with three wires - unplug it. Now remove the two clips on each side of the case under the control and lean the case over then slide it out of the way. Now start the washer and watch while the water is coming in. If the pump starts leaking replace pump.

HOPE THIS HELPS YOU WITH YOUR PROBLEM...PLEASE LEAVE ME A COMMENT...Thanks...Jim

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France

I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)

Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning but I've not had any feedback of this nature.

Good luck,

John C

Hi there, sounds like your bearings seized up on the drum, and your belt burned on it causing the smell.

The list to the right should be resolved. Use a level and level the case left and right, and front to back. The final step is to tilt the machine fully on to the front legs, releasing the self leveling rear legs, and set the machine back down. It should be stable on the 4 feet.

usually this will center the drum and it is more forgiving on balance issues, most of which are common. Be sure to use MORE than enough water for more even loads.

it could be leaking from the pump,, the best way to find the leak is to open the back panel of the machine and use a towel to dry things very well,, then run the cycle and watch for the leak. if it is the pump - then remove and replace it with a new one. but if it is something simple like a hose or a bad hose clamp then just replace that.

c...

This is most likely a failure of the plastic couplers / rubber isolator between the motor and gearcase. This assembly is designed to fail during an overload condition, but they often just wear out over time. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult repair to make.

---UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET---
1. Remove console
2. Remove 2 gold clips at rear of top
3. Unplug lid switch harness
4. Rotate the cabinet up a few inches at the rear and pull it straight off
5. Near the floor at the front of the machine, you'll see the pump, motor, gearcase assembly
6. Remove the 2 large metal clips that hold the motor to the gearcase (you might have to disconnect the motor wiring connectors
7. Rotate the motor / pump downward so the end of the motor facing the gearcase is pointing up / out so you can see it.
8. You should see evidence of a failed coupler... rubber and / or plastic pieces
9. Pry the broken plastic couplers off of the motor and gearcase along w/ whatever's left of the isolator (black rubber)
10. Install new parts (probably need to get these at your local appliance repair shop)
11. The tricky part is realigning the couplers and isolator so you can push everything back together. Be patient... once it's pushed back together, reinstall the large metal clips, motor wiring connectors, etc.
12. Put the cabinet back on, being careful that the rear corners are pushed inward so they engage on the base tabs
13. Install everything else in reverse order of removal
14. Plug it in and listen to her purr...

Good luck.

Did you pull the packing strap from the rear legs it is sometimes a yellow pin. lean unit forward look at rear of machine pin holds the legs up for shipping pull that out.set machine down lean unit forward to balance rear legs should be good to go...If I helped you Please vote need more help just ask Good luck...

by auger do you mean the agitator here is a schematic of your machine of how the agiator installs into the machine if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped it allows me to help others in the future with similar situations
here is your schematic http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fM0606007-00007.png

Thanks Rick

It's probably not the timer. They hardly ever go bad. Trouble shoot the problem. Most common is bad lid switch. But it could be one of the other switches. .I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

Hi,

Quick cure- have the feet properly adjusted. See if you can rock the washer from one front corner. Push fairly firmly.If you can rock it the foot at that corner wants adjusting downwards until it is tight on the floor but without lifting the corner. If not the first corner do the same with the other. Ensure that the feet are locked afterwards- there is normally a locking nut which can be screwed up tight to the base.

This should cure your wandering washer!

Cheers,

John C

The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Here is a link to the part for your machine.

it can with press and hold power in 2 minutes
and bring to service

The pump does not have a belt driven pulley.
The motor and transmission both have pulleys. My guess it's from the transmission

Check out the diagram labeled TRANSMISSION and look at the parts listed below it.
You can order a complete bearing and pulley kits from Sears:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-PAV2300AWW/3048/0153200?searchedModel=PAV2300&blt=

Hi, what you are currently experiencing in form of the black substance is a oil leak from your washer. If oil is spilling in drops or puddles underneath the washing machine, then try removing the front cover of the washer and looking for the transmission system, which has a belt and clutch assembly that runs the machine. If this is wet with oil, you probably do have a leak. In this case, the only option is to replace the transmission. This can be much more difficult than it sounds. First, this problem is typical with older, discontinued washers, and there is a good chance you will not be able to find a transmission system to replace your leaking version. Second, if you do find one, replacing the transmission in a washing machine is very expensive, and repair people will suggest that you simply replace the washer with a new version.
If you want to buy some time, you can try removing the belt and cleaning it with a degreaser, removing all the oil and then allowing it to fully dry before you use it again. If you have a real leak, this fix will last for only a short time, so be prepared to deal with the faulty transmission again. If you have no puddles on the floor and only a light amount of oil in the water when you wash, this could solve the problem for a longer period of time, but you can expect to develop more serious leaks later on.

Washer Basics: Filling with water:
The water fill valve - The water fill valve is a mechanical and electrical part, the coils on the valve need electricity to mechanically open the valve to allow the water to flow into the washer....myth....the washer pumps water into itself...no, it does not. The fill valve opens and the house water pressure pushes the water into the washing machine.
No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can No cold water or no hot water - The fill valve has two coils, one for the hot water and one for the cold water. It is possible that one of the coils can fail and you loose that filling ability. If the cold water coil quits, the hot will still work and during warm fill you will get hot water only and during a cold fill you will get no water at all. If the hot coils quits, you will still have cold water fill, cold water only on a warm setting and no water on a hot fill setting. You can test a fill valve live for 120 volts, power to a fill valve coil and no fill = a bad fill valve. You can also test the coils for continuity, no continuity = a bad fill valve. Some Maytag washers have a fuse in the fill valve circuit, if this fuse let go the washer will not fill. Fill valves can also from time to time stick open and not stop filling. If you have to shut off the fill valves to stop the water from filling in the washer, you have a bad fill valve and you will have to replace it.


Water level controls - The water level control is also know as a pressure switch, this is where you set the water level ( small - medium - large ). The water level control is responsible to shut off the power to the fill valve and direct that power to the timer so the washing machine can start up. The WLC has electrical contacts in it that sends power to the fill valve and when the WLC is satisfied the water level is correct the electrical contacts open power to the fill valve and send the power to the timer and the washer starts. Picture of this here. How the water level control knows when it is time to shut the water off is, a air tight hose runs from the outer washer tank to the water level control. As the water fills the outer tank air is pushed up the hose, depending on which setting you have made ( small- medium - large ) is takes a certain amount of this pressure to make the WLC cycle over and shut off the water and send this power to the timer. If this hose develops a leak or a pin hole the washer can over fill as the WLC may not be able to shut the water off. The water level control can also break down and allow the washer to over fill as well.
Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter. Testing a  water level control or a fill valve can be done by using a ohm meter or a volt meter.
A couple of tips from readers (Thankx!! ):
~ If you have a loose hose on the water level control or tank end, use a plastic wire tie to help hold the hose tighter and make a tight fit.
~ The water level tube (tube that runs from the square box), access panel on the outer drum where the bleach tube also ends) from the pressure sensor switch (front panel) can become clogged.  Or the two holes from the outer tub into this square box panel on the outside of the outer tub can become clogged. Either clog, I am told by my help repair guy can cause the sensor to think that there is still too much water in the tub and so will not allow motor to activate spin.
~ If the water level control contact is bad, it may also stop the filling ok, but not tell the washer to start agitating.

Hi,

If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...

heatman101

The transmission has a 10 year warranty, and you cannot refill without tearing it down. Check your owners manual for remaining warranty or call 1-800-253-1301 and they can tell you. They will need your complete model number and serial number.

you need a credit card to push in between tank and the top panel so stand in front of machine like your putting your card into atm slide card in to release lugs holding top panel on then its all screws from then on once the tops off good luck you are gonna need it super hard machine to pull apart and put back together with no exp. just tilt machine backwards and look up underneath with a torch and follow the leak back up to the source.

Possible that the program controller is faulty. It will be good to keep the machine running if this solves your washing rather than to check on the program controller.
Further if the fault worsens with more programs you can remove the controller and check.

taht sounds to me like your water pump is locked up. More here If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61