Top 20 Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

its broken and needs to be replaced

A burning smell confirms the fact that there is a serious fault . All what is required once the smell is detected is to remove the panel and check for the part that is heating up. You can first check the main motor, check for leaked capacitors, check if the smell comes from the control panel or the valves, pump.since the smell is present the part will be heated up and so is hard to confirm.Your observation to confirm is most important before we go to the next step as the damaged part thus detected must be replaced.

Hi,This link is a picture of the thrust bearing and it's order of how it needs to be replaced. Item number you are looking for is 24. I hope this helps I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

I have the same model with the same problem. Did you ever get a solution?

This washer is a single belt driven model that uses a thrust washer system to release the brake when the motor reverses. In wash mode a 200# spring locks the tub place while the transmission agitates the clothes. The pump cannot remove the water in this direction. In spin mode the the brake is released and the water gets pumped out. Here is a great pictorial that shows how to replace the kit along with a Maytag single belt washer service manual. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

might be a bad motor or transminion , try to put it on spin only see if it spins , if not replace the motor

remove center cap then there is a bolt unscrew it

There should be markings on the washer near the inlet valve that will have a "H" or "C" for hot or cold. If not, hook the hoses up and run cold water only. If the water comes out hot, you will know that the hoses are crossed. It won't hurt anything to run the machine this way.

Try manually advancing timer . If washer starts , timer motor is bad or gets stuck , or water level switch is bad and not sending power to timer.

If washer doesn't start ,the lid switch is stuck not sending power to timer or god forbid, timer is shot.

In some models , lid switch controls everything which may be your problem .Try manually operating lid switch or jumping it with jumper wire.Or just replacing. Its' the easiest to fix and most likely problem.

Good luck

Overflow is usually caused by a "stuck-open" fill valve, with the cold water half of the valve 'sticking' open from sediment buildup inside the valve. This can also be caused by the fill system control components: pressure switch, pressure tube, or pressure tube dome/port. So let's take a look at these.

First of all, determine whether your overflow condition is mechanical or electrical. Start the washer filling, then turn the timer off by pushing the knob in. If the fill continues, pull the washer plug. If filling continues with the washer unplugged, you have a mechanical problem - nearly always a stuck valve ***'y. Replace the fill valve.

If however, the fill stops when you unplug the machine, you are looking at an electrical fill control problem, and it gets a little more complicated.

Here a small piece of rubber or plastic tubing is handy. Unplug the washer and open the console where you'll see the pressure switch. This is the switch with a small rubber tube, usually clear, sometimes black, attached. Pull this tube off and replace it with your short tubing. Blow a bit of pressure into the switch using your mouth, and listen for a click, then another when you release the pressure. Hear two clicks? Good! The switch is probably OK Plug the washer back in (being aware that components in the console are now 'hot' - live electric, use extreme caution , u can be SHOCKED), and start the washer filling again. With it filling, again blow a bit of pressure into the switch. If the switch is good, the fill should stop and the machine should start to agitate. This verifies that the pressure switch is working, and causes us to suspect the pressure tubing or a clogged port/dome to which it connects. Wipe off the end of the original tube you removed from the switch, and blow into it. You're blowing air down into the tank now, and you should feel very little restriction. If it is very hard or impossible to blow through this tube, the tank dome or port is clogged. Really old Maytags were known for this, and if you have one, spin out all water, remove the 'Corbin' clamp from the pressure tube outside of the tank and pull the tube off. (Pull washer front off - 2 Phillips screws at bottom, then two 3/8 in. hex screws release top, which swings upward) You will probably see 'gunk' clogging both the rubber tubing and the 'spud' that is a part of the tank. The hose ***'y can be taken to a sink and flushed clean with hot water, and an old toothbrush used to clear the tank spud, which, in the Maytags, is about 3/4 in. ID. Very important: WHENEVER THE PRESSURE TUBE IS REMOVED, BEFORE REINSTALLING IT, BE SURE ALL WATER HAS BEEN SPUN OUT OF THE WASHER! Otherwise, the water fill level will be incorrect and you'll be back in trouble.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

Thank you for using fixya.

for most all wasing machines the maximum height is 8 feet

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

I'm so sorry but this forum does not, nor is in a position to, supply any type of manual (service or otherwise), parts list, installation instructions, electrical or schematic diagrams direct; it's just made up of ordinary guys and gals, probably at home and from all over the world, with experience of addressing problems and giving guidance for free on the web ;-0)
Also members on Fixya are not 'affiliated' to, or representative of, any manufacturer at all, just using their experience gained probably over many years.

Manual
You will need to type into your search engine/web browser '(make model number) technical manual' and you MAY be presented with a number of sources from which you can either download for free or have to pay a nominal amount.
You could also try the manufacturer's web site direct but they often supply only to registered agents ;-0(

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Providing your particular model has one I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter- so many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters.
Following are my complete and hopefully 'coverall' pre-typed guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hello.

BELOW ARE STEP BY STEP RECOMMENDATION ON HOW TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM OF YOUR WASHER THAT HAS FAIL TO WORK AS EXPECTED.

However,if you are having problems with either not draining or spinning, with your front load or top load washing machine, then you need to realize that they can be interrelated. Mostly in that if your washer is not draining the water it will not spin at all or at least not properly. There also can be others problems that will stop or slow down the spin, but the water not draining is the most common one.

So, if you are stuck with a washer that is full of dirty stinky water then here are some things to start checking.

First get that shop vac out or a bunch of rags and a bucket. The water needs to go. The shop vac will pull the water out the drain hose. Just remove it from the standpipe and place the nozzle in the hose and pull the water through the pump and into the shop vac. Of course if you cannot pull the water out this way, you already know that the pump is blocked or clogged, then just vac out all the water you can from the inside of the washer.

If all else fails, remove the front cover and take off the hose going from the tub to the pump. Yeah, water will go all over, but that is what the rags and bucket are for.

When the water is gone, you can then pull all the stuff out of the hose and pump, that are causing the problems. Most of these pumps are very easy to take apart and clean out. This will make sure that there isn?t anything inside the pump that can stop it. They are not very strong motors and something like a toothpick may stop it.

Now, where this get tricky is that there are sensors that check the water level and adjust the spin. If your water is not draining, your washer will not spin either.

For many washing machine problems that are drain and spin related, this simple cleaning will solve your problem. But there are other possibilities.

The lid switch is the old problem that keeps raising it?s ugly head on all washers. Bottom line here is that if the washer thinks that the door is open, the things don?t work right. Check out the door switch to make sure it is operating properly.

Make sure the new front load washers are on a good solid level surface. If the machine can move around then the sensors will often sense the movement and not allow the machine to reach full spin speed. Some manufactured bases may not be stable enough to give correct readings to the machine. If your washer is moving around, then fix that problem.

The timer can also be a problem. Many will wear out and then get to a point in the cycle, then not advance any further. Also the computer controlled sequencers can also get glitches and may need to be reset. You can check out the timer by manually advancing it, and the computer reset procedure will be in your manual that you received with your washing machine.

By going through this check list you can check out the problems that most handy persons can handle in the home. To make sure you have a the best chance at a trouble free washing machine, make sure that you do not leave anything et into your washer that will cause it harm or plug it up.

Thanks for using fixya.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome.

chech the small hose on the back of the drum, acsess it from the back in the middle. That hose comes off, it will leak and cuntinue to fill

Just fixed this myself. It was the fill valve hose. If you look at the back side there is a port you can look though where you see a hose connected with a clamp to a nipple. In my case the hose came off and the fill valve did not work.

If that does not work, you need to look at the other end of the hose near the control knob. Here's the video I found that helped me.

Hi, check to see if there's good water volume coming through the hoses attached to the washing machine. If there is, check to see if the screens inside the water-inlet valve are clean. (The water-inlet valve is the device on the washing machine that the fill hoses are attached to.) If they're clean, you probably have a defective water-inlet valve. If so, you should completely replace the valve.

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.The front legs should have a lock nut on them and the rear legs are self leveling legs. You level the front then lean the unit forward and drop the back and they will level.Only drop it like 3 inches.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..