Top 20 Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer - Page 7 Questions & Answers

The belt may just have burned, Slide the washer out and tilt it back. holding it tilted by someone or something you trust not to slide or let go. But see if the belt is broke or torn apart. Take the belt off and see if the motor shaft will free spin. You can have the motor replaced or do it your self. My opinion, if the motor is bad I would buy a new washer. The motor and installing by someone is pretty expensive.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France

I mostly answer front load problems but ' out of balance' is a common problem with both!
So- I don't know your particular machine but the initial cure is the same.
It is necessary to ensure absolutely that the machine, even when empty, has all 4 feet very firmly on the floor, and I mean firmly ;-0)

Doesn't matter whether it is empty or not but switch it off then-
very firmly push one front corner diagonally into the centre of the machine (sorry about my UK spelling!) and see if the machine moves or rocks AT ALL, even the slightest. If it does you will need the open-ended spanner which came with the (new) machine........which of course went missing a long time ago?!! An adjustable spanner will suffice.
Adjust the foot under that corner downwards until it is very firmly- almost pushing- against the floor but not so far that the corner lifts up!
If this corner did not rock do the same to the other.
Once you cannot rock the machine the slightest little bit, screw the locking nuts up tight to the underside of the machine so that they will not move. Ideally the rear feet should also be locked.

If this has not cured the problem it is possible that the internal drum suspension is malfunctioning but I've not had any feedback of this nature.

Good luck,

John C

The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Here is a link to the part for your machine.

Sounds to me like the pump is not operating up to par. Open the machine and check all the drain lines form the tub to the pump, from the pump to the waste pipe and also, when you check the tub to pump line, feel up into the tub to make sure you don't have a article of clothing stuck in there. Check the inside of the pump too. Here is a link to a video to show you how to access the pump and lines.

I am not sure on this model, but see if you can take the top control panel off first. This should be held with a couple of screws, then tilt it back and this may give you acces to the screws holding the cover on. The outside cover should be one piece and it removes from the front. If this is correct on this model then you should only be left with a frame that holds the tub and the motor should be underneath the drum. I would check the coupling to the motor and make sure it is not worn out, this will keep the tub from spinning and agitating. You shouldn't even have to move it out or disconnet the water lines to do this.I hope I could help.

Your pressure switch stops the water and allows it to start the next cycle. It's a switch either in the control panel or at the top of the tub with a small tube connected to it which goes down between the inner and outer tub. As the water level increases the air in the tube is compressed until there is enough pressure to "make the switch" stopping the water from filling. This tube can get clogged and the switch won't work. Remove the tube and clean it out. Blowing on the tube when it's still connected to the switch will make the switch if it's working and clear.
Part 5 on this diagram is your pressure switch. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Maytag-Parts/Washer-Parts/Model-PAV2300AWW/3048/0153200/M0606007/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

HELLO THERE:

SYMPTOM: WASHER FILLS, BUT DOESN'T AGITATE AND/OR SPIN
1) Check the imbalance/lid switch FOR continuity. Check also the speed selector switch (if any), the water level and water temperature switches for proper operation .
NOTE: If any of the selector switches on the console are only partially pushed in, it may cause improper function.
2) Check for a broken or badly worn belt.
3) Check the motor rollers and tension springs for damage and the motor roller tracks for jamming. Any of these might cause the belt to be loose.
4) Check the appropriate timer circuits for continuity.
5) Remove the belts and see if the motor will start. If you hear the motor buzzing, but it doesn't start in either or both directions, test the capacitor (if any) and starting switch
If it does start with the load removed, turn the pump and transmission pulleys by hand, in both directions, to see which is locked up. If the pump is locked, If the transmission pulley is locked,. Note that the transmission pulley will normally be very stiff when turning it in the clockwise direction, as you look at the bottom of the washer.

Check and make sure your drain from the washer is not pushed to far down in to the WALL DRAIN PIPE Because if it is the water will SIPHON out faster than you can fill.. Pipe should only be down about 6 inches in to drain and secured... Hope this Helps

Sounds like the inner tub has broken loose. Remove agitator and check hub to make sure the inner basket it's secure.

Most of them have a manufacturers tag on the lid panel. If not, the ID tag is should be visible when you remove the rear panel.

Possible that the program controller is faulty. It will be good to keep the machine running if this solves your washing rather than to check on the program controller.
Further if the fault worsens with more programs you can remove the controller and check.

As long as it isn't caused only by an unbalanced load, one of the out tub's suspension points is likely broken. Pull the AC plug, remove the water lines (drop into a bucket), then remove the lower back panel from the washer and look for the four points near the corners where there should be either very heavy rubber bands or springs that are supposed to hold the washer centered. One or more of these are either broken or weak.

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Did you ever get an answer - all I see are ads :-(

We have the same problem. Not enough water to rinse - even with extra rinse selected. Even our laundry comes out the color of the laundry detergent. I'm sure this is a result of government regulations to reduce water usage. We'll contact Maytag tomorrow.

Hi and welcome to FixYa I am Kelly
Here is what you can do to try and remove the debris from inside the water valve assembly.

-Turn off BOTH wall hose connections
-Remove ONE hose assembly completely and also remove the screen from the hose connection area of the water valve by using a thin knife blade on the outside of the screen
-Leaving the screen removed connect ONE hose to the water valve hand tight and place the free end in a bucket.
-Turn on the remaining wall connection water hose
-Select WARM wash and start washer fill cycle
-Tap on the water valve FILL HOSE fitting for about 20 seconds (Your trying to loosen / remove debris) Do NOT use a hammer.... (Handle ok) but be serious with your tapping.

STOP FILL CYCLE
-Reinstall the removed inlet screen and connect hose to water valve and wall connection.
Repeat procedure for the 2nd hose.

This will clear about 50% of the water fill problems. If it does not cease the dripping while off routine you will have to replace the water valve assembly (Item 17) This link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5177917&diagram_id=1341192#d1341192

Detasiled view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4026760

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

Hi.

Check the lid switch, which is commonly causing mid cycle problems. The lid switch is tested by running a cycle with its contacts jumped.

If that is not the problem the repair will get more complex. The variable spin motor or the motor coupler functionment must be checked, and so the state of the agitator, located at the base of the tub. Less common fault is the transmission box.

Check the lid switch, if that is OK, motor, transmission and agitator must be accessed and checked.

Here all parts and diagrams for this model.

Regards.

Ginko.

transmission is going bad

You could be looking at bad bearings in the transmission unit but for a quick solution:
I would make a frame of wood the size of the base, make sure it's level with the floor area or shim it accordingly. Then drill some "foot" size holes for the bottom and set the machine in them.
Shouldn't walk anymore...

Greetings,
I'll be honest and tell you sight unseen this problem could be anything...
I would first make sure your getting power out of the receptacle..try plugging a lamp in there or something to make sure...after your sure...i would check to make sure you hear the lid switch click when you close it and open it.....if you hear no click. the switch could be bad,even some will click and still be bad.....you can gain access to this by removing back timer cover and with a multi-meter check the terminals.coming out of switch..you will know you have right one as one side of power cord goes into the side of the switch.

its possible the timer is bad, or motor also, but most likely the lid switch