Top 20 Maytag Atlantis MAV7260B Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

These washer are notorious for linting, there is no real solution, reduce wash time to bare minimum, try sorting clothes into different categories, whites separate washed from dark clothes, use good quality detergent. The only way to fix this problem completely is a neutral drain kit, I do not believe Maytag sells one.

The motor bearing are shot and won't handle the load. New motor needed. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

check water supply. if good check valve. valve is probably faulty

clean motor rollers(belt may be slipping)






















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My dryer is making a noice and will not start how do I open it to see if the belt is broke

the pumps and motor pullys go bad on those.tip washer back against wall and inspect there.motor pulley melts ,the pump pulley breaks loose from its spot welds and then will rub metal to metal.when ordering parts replace belt too if damaged.if worn wont get a good spin and then dryer has to work over time.[power bill up.up,up.thanks for using fixya.God bless,tom

tip machine machine back now access belt should have motor pulley, pump pulley and middle big yellow thrust bearing,, usually pump is broken

It leaksYour washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs: 

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time

During fill only
If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.


The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak. 


Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak. 



During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details. 


All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.


Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician. 


Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it. 


Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

the timer might be broke, well let me explain more the prongs on the back of the timer might not be making contact so the washer will not start.

There are two methods used to hold the agitator in place. The first is a main bolt at the top of the agitator under the softener cup. The second is a small bolt located on the lower portion of the agitator. To access the transmission the tubs will have to be removed.

i wouid try a new belt

you don't say which model you have. one version uses two belts accesible by just tipping the machine back. Another version you must remove the front panel, and drop the pump and you'll be able to replace the one belt.

Troubleshooting chart-

https://machinecompanion.com/maytag-neptune-washer-not-draining/

The label should be at the back where the power goes in. The label is supposed to be not able to be removed (strong adhesive or metal and riveted. There may also be a service manual and wiring diagram in the top console. Pictures and mentions here, but no model details. You could also try emailing Maytag. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+ensignia+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles You can upload pictures, but we know what the machine is because of your excellent description. After more searching it may be MDE4806AYW although it says 12 cycles? https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+%22ensignia%22+heavy+duty+super+size+capacity+quiet+series+200+10+cycles+manual ..

Help in the link https://www.google.com/search?q=Maytag+MVW7232HW0+top+load%2C+error+codes+and+condensation+on+control+panel ..

Leveling: Ensure the washer is properly leveled. An unbalanced load can trigger the UL (unbalanced load) code. Use a level to check if the machine is sitting evenly on the floor.

Load Distribution: Make sure the clothes are evenly distributed in the drum. An imbalanced load can cause the UL code to appear.

Calibration: Some models have a calibration mode that can be accessed through the control panel. Running a calibration cycle might help the washer to detect load balance more accurately.

Electronics: There could be an issue with the control board or wiring harness. Inspect these components for any visible damage or loose connections.

Professional Service: If none of the above steps resolve the issue, it may be time to consult with a professional appliance repair technician who can diagnose and fix the problem more accurately. They may have specialized tools and knowledge to pinpoint the exact cause of the UL code.

Ld is long drain, so either the pump is blocked, the pump impeller is worn or the drain hose is blocked. I had a drain blockage on a Miele and it was cause by an apple stalk lodging itself across the ridges of the drain hose and had collected enough lint to block it, This was a machine that was washing towels commercially for 16 hours a day. Unhook the drain and watch it pumping either into a bucket or into a laundry sink. It should fly out in a jet! ..

Could be as the spin starts it overloads the fuse ..... not sure without more information though.

If yours is a top loader it will mounted near the drum inside the machine. It will be a shaped block of concrete curved to sit close the actual drum. The most like places will be at the front, nearest you when your putting clothes in it, at about 3/4 of the way off the floor. It could also be in a similar place at the back of the machine.

Humming is indicative of the start/run capacitor on the motor failing. I am puzzled though why it carries on humming until you unplug it? Having said that, a capacitor is an electronic store of power. https://www.google.com/search?q=maytag+mvwb300wq1+capacitor+replacement ..