20 Most Recent Maytag Legacy Series Top Load Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

replace the water fill valve located at the hose input

Hi

To replace the Soap dispenser please see this video and follow the step by step procedure as narrated and shown there.

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

It is going to either be the tub hose that goes to the pump or the pump itself. If both of these are ok then you would need to replace the tub seal. To replace the center tub seal you remove the tub and motor from the washer by getting the 2 springs off there and taking the hoses off. Unplug the motor harness and the whole thing comes out. Here it some photos of how it all goes down.

Single belt top loading maytag washer tip by TheMobilian If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

The belt would probably squeak in the agitate direction also. I suspect a tub or clutch bearing is going out. If you find signs under the washer that it's been leaking, the tub bearing needs to be changed. It's a major disassembly job. The clutch bearing may be easier.

Hello there and thank you for choosing fixya
If your Maytag top load washer is not agitating properly, you will need to check each one of the parts below until you find out which part you will need to replace to get your washer working properly again.
The free videos in these pages will show you how to do each one of the repairs the right way.

1. How to check & replace belts
2. How to check & replace spring & glides
3. How to check & replace the transmission

This actually sound like a lid switch issue. Especially if it makes no noise whatsoever. If it is still making sounds like it is trying to run, take a good look at your belts. Get me the model number off the washer and I'll make you a step by step list of things to check.

Hi,

Thank you for contacting fixya.com.

Check for a clogged drain hose or broken pump. Check whether the drain hose isn

hello bz... there can be no hot water wash or hot cycle without hooking up a hot water supply line. Also, you must plug that hot water inlet, the correct plug is available at most hardware stores. Finally, yes it is normal for the machine to stop before draining, as the transmission shifts. If the machine is very noisy, that is not normal. To reduce that noise you could put the machine on a piece of thick carpet to deaden the noise a bit. Joe

Thanks for choosing Fixya!

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

It is less likely to be the actual pump (pumps are normally quite solid things as they are electric motors) than pipes leading to and from, I would suggest first follow my general guidance notes on checking filters and testing pumps ;-0)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Check out the switch its the one where you close the door.You should see a pin on the door that pushes in the switch when you close the door.Take a pen push in the switch if the washer does not turn on it might be that switch.I hope this might help you ???

Please post the model number of the washer.

most likely your problem is in the pump either the pump itself is bad or there is something jammed in it, remove and inspect pump replace with new one if necessary
hope this helps,

Most of these Top-Load Maytag machines, allow access to the controls, by removing two screws on the top of the top control panel--
Remember to pull the plug from the wall before getting inside the control panel section.
When you remove the two outer screw, the panel itself will tilt forward, giving you access to the insides.

Most models have a control fuse inside, that may have blown-- Can you see it toward the back, and the middle. Does it look blown?-- can you replace it.

Note: I found on my machine, that the 2 switches that are connected to the lid get sluggish, and can result in blowing the control fuse, with the dropping of the lid!--
I found that I had to make sure the Control knob was always IN whenever we move the lid up or down.

Let me know if this helped-- or if we need to dig deeper.

Mack B

You have a leaking solenoid valve. Solenoid valves are valves that admit water to the washer. They are electrically powered by the machine and are normally either open or closed. Normally. One of yours is leaking by. Here's how to find out which one it is:
1. Shut off the hot and the cold water faucets at the wall.
2. Remove the water from the machine as far as you can.
3. Turn only one of the faucets at the wall (either the hot or the cold supply line) on.
4. Wait for however long you normally have to go to notice the water rising.
5. If the water is noted to have risen in the tub, that's your culprit. If it hasn't risen, shut the valve at the wall and open the other, again waiting for the level to rise.
6. When you figure out which line it is, unplug the washer and trace the line down to the back of the washer. You'll see that the hose attaches to the washer at what is normally a blue fitting (whatever color it is doesn't matter). The part that your hose attaches to is the leaking solenoid valve.
7. Shut off the water again, and unhook both hoses at the washer. Use a bowl or bucket to catch the water that will be present when you disconnect the hoses. Remove the water fron the washer, and have several towels or sponges at the ready to collect any further water that occurs.
8. Gain access to the solenoid valves. This is normally accomplished by taking the back off of the washer.
9. Remove the offending solenoid, taking careful note of how the wiring is attached. It's usually a very good idea to make yourself a sketch and note where each wiring terminal connects. You can attempt to repair the solenoid, but my experience has been that it is a better fix to replace the bad one with a new one. Saves maybe having to pull the same solenoid twice if you mess up.
10. Take your old solenoid valve with you to your local appliance parts supply house, along with your make and model number of your washer.
Note: You can go to your local Maytag repairman, and they may or may not have your part. It WILL cost more there. The appliance parts supply store will have what you need and it will cost less. They don't cost much.
11. Install your new solenoid in the reverse order of it's removal.

Best regards, and hope that this helps you,

--W/D--

Hi,


Remove any kinks in the drain hose. Ensure that the washer is not sitting on the hose.

Inspect the household drain. Remove clogs, if possible. Call a plumber if you cannot remove the clogs.

Check the drain and make sure there is an air gap between the hose and drain. An air gap is necessary to prevent the drain hose from siphoning water.

Clean the pump filter. Open the pump access door. Turn the pump filter counter-clockwise and remove it. Remove dirt and debris. Replace the filter and close the pump access door.

Rearrange the clothing in the load. An unbalanced load can prevent the washer from spinning or draining.

Allow the washer to cool down for two hours. If the washer overheats, it will stop the motor and cool down before restarting.

Close the door completely. The washer will not operate if the door is not securely closed.

I hope the above helps.

Take care.

Hi

If washer fills with water but doesn't agitate, the problem is likely to be a faulty lid switch. Check the wiring to the lid switch, if wiring seems to be fine then check the tab on the lid that strikes it. If the plastic tab is broken, the washer may halt before/while agitating. Check connections to part#10 (lid switch) in below switch--



Pull the bottom of the front panel toward you. Then pull down on the front panel to release the top of the panel from the upper spring clips. Look for the two hex head screws under the front lip of the top panel. Remove the screws with a nut driver and raise the top panel up. Hope this helps... Please post back if you need more information.

Daniel

YOU HAVE ABEARING PROBLEM

There are a few things than can cause this symptom.

First off make sure the unit is level and that a 4 leveling legs are touching the floor. Th machine should not "teeter" as you try to rock is from opposing corners. If it does re-level the machine by adjusting the legs.

Second. the inner tub has a balance ring at the top that is supposed to keep the inner tub reasonably balanced during the spin. These usually do not go bad unless part of it has failed and a piece broke off. Look for any broken areas of the balance ring.

Third. Make sure that the 3 springs items 6 and 8 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172881&diagram_id=28532915#d28532915 Are all connected. Any one of them missing or dis-connected can cause this symptom.

Fourth... One the bottom of the inner wash tub there are interlocking teeth that mate up with the transmission hub:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4260930
If these teeth are worn on either the bottom of the inner wash tub or the hub this can cause an eliptical / out of balance spin. There actually is a kit for this repair item 13 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172881&diagram_id=28532914#d28532914
The kit also includes the main bearing tht can also be part of the eliptical spin problem. See this link for the bearing: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4049019
Installing this kit is very labor intensive (not for the average mechanic) and takes 2 special tools. A spanner wrench and an Air-Dome adapter. Good luck finding the special tools. The spanner is availble but the Air-Dome adapter is out of stock. This particular repair procedure is not one I like doing as a repairman. Just too many time consuming variables.

The last thing I can think of is possibly a missing pad Item 4 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172881&diagram_id=28532914#d28532914

This should give an idea of what is causing your symtom.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly