that is absolutely what you should do as it is probably worn out and you will be able to see if it is and that will tell you if it has been rubbing and causing your problem with the machine..
This
will occur if the running thermostat is stuck closed. This thermostat
will be located inside the dryer on the vent duct or blower housing. it
must be replaced in order to restore normal functions.
Also, improper ventilation can cause this as well. have the entire vent assembly cleaned asap. these
the model #dvlr223 is missing some numbers and letters at the end, if you can find the whole model number, open the door and you should see a decal with the model and serial number, you can go to www.searspartsdirect and enter your model # and you will get an exploded view of all the parts for your dryer, try to get the part # and find it local, they charge alot for shipping
Either your belt is broken or the broken belt micro switch has failed.Or something is pinching the tub and stalling the motor so that it won't go into run mode. OR the motor is gone. No way to tell without taking a look see. I have a service pictorial HERE
The fuse/non-resetable limit looks like this: To get to itCheck for lint and such. Clean it up. The belt goes onLet me know what you find out. Glad to help.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Unlike some other dryers that have knockouts on the side and allows the vent to come out the side I don't believe this one does. The air duct has the rear discharge outlet built right into it. Since it sounds like you don't have enough room to put a 90 degree elbow on the back of the machine, which would move the dryer out about 6 in, you might try one of those square duct dryer fittings. See link for example: http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5CO-89638&source=froogle&kw=5CO-89638. If you had to you could put this 90 degrees, and continue it out with retangular metal duct.
However... I do believe this is the GE DVLR223 type dryer. There are 2 different motors depending on manufacture date. One has this number on it 5KH26JJ112S and the other one has 5KH26JJ113S on it. Check your motor vs these 2 pictures:
You can probably save yourself a small fortune in shipping fees by writing GE here and ask them if they have an appliance parts outlet in Thailand: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/contact/ Or better yet call the 1-800 number on this page above.
I can so relate to appliance issues as I am in the Philippines and have the same problems with parts. I do my own service as I have been doing in home repairs for over 40 years now.
the element is behind the drum,you must first remove the screws holding the front panel on at the floor area,then lift forward and up like a car hood,then remove top cover screws underneath top cover and lift up like a car hood and secure in upright position as not to tear wire harness,then remove the drum belt and pull drum out of unit,the element can now be accessed and you can order an element re-string kit usually about $25 and re-string the new heating coil yourself
On the back of the dryer where the cord connects, there are 3 terminals for the connection. The two outside terminals are for the power wires, the two colored wires at the edges of the cord. The center terminal is for the insulated center wire of the cord, the neutral, white in color usually. There is also a strap that may be connected to this center terminal, that should be removed and bent to the side, The bare or green wire in the cord connects to where that strap is connected to the metal back of the dryer.
if you look inside b/w the drum to the front wall you see on the bottom a gap. this gap come from ware and taire of the seal felt. and the clothes get stuck there. you need a new upper felt (its like special sponge or fabric) as a technitian i change thus every 4-5 years b/c they just ware down . the felt is the sponge that the drum ride on ,in the front wall of your dryer