20 Most Recent GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Replace the rubber seal to prevent future leaks.

something is blocked pump or filter. access pump from bottom switch off power first

Have you leveled off the feet on the bottom?

I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and just happened to see that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer, a front load washer, or a dishwasher, I suggest you
go directly to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as many other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good trouble shooting and repair nformation on most washers and dryers, dishwashers and many other household appliances. I think you'll find what you need there. Don't worry about the timer on a washer, they hardly ever go bad. I realize I haven't solved your problem for you, but I hope I have sent you to a place that will help you solve the problem. Good luck with it.

http://appliancejunk.com/ge/washer/31-9135.pdf

This manual will cover all service for your machine.
You can do it yourself.
Go to repairclinic.com for your parts.

I had this problem also. I pulled the drawer out, then removed the softener assembly. (the blue piece) In the front there is a hole that lets the softener liquid drain into the funnel to go into the machine. It was clogged with a little bit of dried up softener liquid. Cleared that and it worked fine. We've had the washer for 3 years and have had to do this several times. Seems to be a problem.

As long as its fixed ....why worry?

sounds like the shockers have went
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-+GE+WCVH6800+-%3d%3di1264427&PartID=1264427

A common occurance is blockage of the water pump propellers. Check your machine's manual to familiarise yourself with the drain filter.

Please note by openning the filter, the existing water in the machine will drain out on to the floor. Be prepared for this with towls and mops.

Clean out the filter. Use a torch to look into the cavity and make sure nothing has gone through the filter to the pump propellors.

Once the filter is clean and all the water has drained out. Start the machine on spin cycle. If you can hear the water pump working then all should be well. If there is no sound from the water pump, it needs replacing or further investigation by a technician.

Good Luck.
Ash

usually this is indicitive of a bad pump or something stuck in it.these machines when first started they try to pump out first
the cycle will continue as long as it senses water
have them inspect the pump
good luck with sear service i hope it goes well

I take off the top cover unplug machine 1st ..Safety...Then take offretaining ring on inner drum /also ring on outer drum remove boot seal..Check utube video, explains in good detail...

Make sure both shock are tight.You could also check couterweights are ok....Could be drum/pulley hitting back of casing...

Try unplugging the washer and letting it sit for a few minutes and then plug it back in.

there should be 2 1/4 inch screws on the bottom of the washer that hold the bottom plate in the front on....take those out (make sure you unplug the machine) and there will be a pump clean out behind that access panel....it unscrews counterclockwise...they usually get plugged up with lint...just clean that out and put it back together and you should be good to go

Check the big rubber seal around the door for any holes or tears. Had the same problem, my husband had a screw in his pocket that torn a hole in the gasket.

May be broken spider--assy. that supports drum. If so, toss it. Too expensive.

Candie, The tub gasket (door seal) is part number #WH08X10022 with a new substitution part #WH08X10036. However, since each model can be slightly different, depending on the serial number which denotes when it was manufactured, you might want to confirm that the above gasket is the correct one for your particular washer.

I'd suggest you call the folks at Sears Parts Direct at 1-800-252-1698 and give them your complete model number AND serial number before you start in on the repair, so you can be sure you have the correct substitution bellows gasket.

It's a relatively easy repair, all you need to do is remove the spring retaining wire around the outer edge of the bellows gasket, just peel it back at the edge to see it. Now locate the locking loop by going around the rim. Once you find the locking loop, you can remove it using a couple pairs of small needle nose pliers as they make it easier to get off.

Once you've done that, you'll see the locking plate that holds the back side of the bellows gasket onto the outer washer tub. Remove those fasteners and you can get the bellows off and start in on putting the new bellows onto the washer, just reversing the order you used in the removal process.

Here's a line drawing that shows the exploded view of the tub section, with the gasket (item #306). Just take your time removing the old gasket so you remember what you're doing and when installing the new gasket so as not to rip or tear it in the process. I'd also suggest you let the gasket relax for a good 4-5 hours (to get the kinks and folds out of it from the packing box) before you do the installation.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getSubComp.pd?modelNumber=WBVH6240F0WW&productCategoryId=0153200&brandId=0432&modelName=WASHER&diagramPageId=00004&componentDescription=TUB%20&%20MOTOR&documentId=G6090504&backToLink=Return%20to%20Sub%20Components%20list

Here's another link to one of my other solutions for installing a bellows gasket on a GE front loading washer that you can also review for more installation tips, etc.

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2730376-need_help_in_installing_door_bellow_ge

Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

Servicing Water Inlet ValvesIf the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve assembly:



©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
If an inlet valve is faulty, check the water connection and the
valve screens. Try gently tapping the solenoids;
if this doesn't work, replace the inlet valve assembly.
Step 1: Remove the back service panel and disconnect the hot-water and cold-water hoses to the valves.

Step 2: Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested, but chances are the valves are simply worn out.

Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a screwdriver handle. If this doesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.

Its actually pretty easy.

1, Remove the top of the washer
2. Remove the screws behind the front panel with the knobs and buttons. set the whole assembly on top out of the way
3. remove the door of the hinge. there are 4 screws
4. remove the concrete weight
5. remove the back band folding gasket. It has a bolt.
6. remove the front band, its just under spring tension
6. replace gasket and install back band first.
7. work your way backwards from here.

Good luck

Scott

Hi,

took mine apart. Remove both of the rings. The back one you may need to remove the concrete weight to get to the bolt. The front is just under spring tension. Then put the back one on first and you should be able to put the gasket on the front through the door.

Scott