20 Most Recent GE WCVH6260F Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Have the exact same problem as you are writing about and have researched to the point that I know more about front load washers than I ever wanted to. Mine does the same, the basket (stainless steel) doesn't look centered in the unit anymore, you can tell when looking around the perimeter of the basket and compare to the rubber gasket. On front load washers the basket (the stainless piece that spins), if the door is open and if you push up on the basket there should be very very little to NO play or give . Meaning the basket should not be able to move up, down, side to side (not talking about spinning, just north, south, east, west). If there is play or movement, which in the case of mine it is flopping all over the place there is a very good chance (thinking 95% sure) that it is the bearing. Not good news for any front washer but GE in all it's wisdom set it's crack engineers out to design this unit so that the bearing is not an individual part, this design has the basket (THE ACTUAL STAINLESS BASKET), THE SUPPORT ROD AND BEARINGS AS A SINGLE PIECE. Totally idiotic and such a poor design I have to believe that it was done this way in order to ensure future sales of new units or high repair costs. The "Basket Assembly" alone is between $550 and $650, before tax, before labor if you don't do it yourself. If you decided to tackle this yourself their crack engineers designed it to where you have to totally disassemble the entire unit to replace it. No exaggeration, you literally have to take the entire outer tub assembly apart to replace and the outer tub assembly is heavy (may not be a one person job). If you are able to accomplish this without damaging any other part then you have to Humpty Dumpty back together again, without damaging anything else. I was able to find the service manual online for this unit and if the part wasn't 75% of the cost of the entire unit I might try to repair it myself and I consider myself mechanically self sufficient. If you don't have the service manual, the correct tools or have a short tolerance level for these things then forget it, let alone the price.Had to vent a little. I could have made this post much shorter and just said, **** design, problem is probably the bearing, their design has this piece part of the entire basket assembly, cost $600+ part only, degree of difficulty to repair 9 (out of 10, a 10 would be building the unit from pieces found at a scrap yard), punt and think about a new unit. Really irritates me that a washer can be 5 or 6 years old and if this happens you are really screwed. Now I know what to look for in a new unit and to check into how the thing is designed just in case a bearing goes out in the future you don't get left up the river as you we are with this unit. Hope this helps.

Washer will not drain: Thedrain water pumpis the main part in your washing machine that pumps out the water. If this is defective or has failed in any way, this will be the reason why your washer will not drain the water. Before you order a new drain pump, make sure tocheck the pump to be sure a small object like clothing or similar has not lodged itself insideof it causing the NO DRAIN issue and even a no spin issue?. If the drain pump is not clogged, you can test it with a multimeter and remove and replace if needed. Go to Google or YouTube and search for "Replace Washing Machine Drain Pump" then type your brand and model number of washer to show you details on replacement. Read more:http://removeandreplace.com/2014/10/30/fix-washing-machine-that-wont-drain-washer-not-draining-water/#ixzz3X2LbXMWJ The washing machinedrain hoseis where the water flows through to get the water out.If this drain hose is blocked, kinked, bent, or clogged, the washer will NOT be able to remove the waterfrom the tub. Check the drain hose to be sure it allows the water to flow freely. You can take the drain hose off and run water through it in your sink to be sure it is not blocked. If there is water STILL in the washer when you remove the drain hose, grab a bucket as the water will exit from where you disconnected it Thewater pump belt(to drain out the water) may have broke or become frayed or loose.If this belt breaks then it is unable to drain and remove the water from your washer. Inspect the belt to see if this is causing theNO DRAINissue and remove and replace if needed. If thelid switchis not working as required it will cause your washer to not drain (and many other problems).This may be unlikely as a bad lid switch will usually cause your washer to alsonot agitate or spin.However on some models this can vary. The best thing to do if you have a suspected bad lid switch is to test it. It can fail electrically and or mechanically. If mechanical failure is the issue, you should be able to see if it is cracked, broken, or not in place to make contact with the lid. To test it electrically, use a multimeter set on Ohms and test it for continuityMy advice is free cuz God is good! WASHER WILL NOT RINSE: If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle. This is because when you selected your water temperature, you may have selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing. The item to check would be your water inlet valve. Check it for continuity with a multi meter it should show Ohms or a closed circuit. To test it when water is overflowing unplug the unit and see if it still overflows or continues to fill. If it stops when unplugged. Then it is not a water inlet problem but an electrical signal problem going to ur water inlet valve. Possibly from the panel or board. You can also do a live volt test to see if it is getting the full 120 current, but be sure to unplug unit before testing as this is a live test. Another test u can do to check the water inlet valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed. If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing. TIMER If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing. Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

If you are on a well system, check your screen at the valve, cold water side. If you are on city or county water, then I would recommend replacing the cold water valve. If after replacing valve, if you are still having issues, then replace the dispenser assembly itself. Sometimes mildew/mold will build up in the holes inside the dispenser. If after all that, if it still doesn't flush, the control pcb would be the last part to replace.

Please join us in this petition to have GE recall this front loading washer! Thanks :)http://www.thepetitionsite.com/739/633/604/recall-ge-wcvh-front-loading-washing-machines-due-to-smoking-fire-hazard/

Three screws at the back of cover, three screws at the front, push the cover back and you can remove it. 1 screw at the front of the soap drawer and two more on the dispenser and you can lift the whole unit up.

Had the same GE model number and similar problem. The basket (stainless steel) doesn't look centered in the unit anymore, you can tell when looking around the perimeter of the basket and compare to the rubber gasket. On front load washers the basket (the stainless piece that spins), if the door is open and if you push up on the basket there should be very very little to NO play or give . Meaning the basket should not be able to move up, down, side to side (not talking about spinning, just north, south, east, west). If there is play or movement there is a very good chance (thinking 95% sure) that it is the bearing. Not good news for any front washer but GE in all it's wisdom set it's crack engineers out to design this unit so that the bearing is not an individual part, this design has the basket (THE ACTUAL STAINLESS BASKET), THE SUPPORT ROD AND BEARINGS AS A SINGLE PIECE. The "Basket Assembly" alone is between $550 and $650, before tax, before labor if you don't do it yourself. If you decided to tackle this yourself you have to totally disassemble the entire unit to replace it. No exaggeration, you literally have to take the entire outer tub assembly apart to replace. If you are able to accomplish this without damaging any other part then you have to Humpty Dumpty back together again, without damaging anything else. Hope this helps.

ok.Sounds like could be rip in inner drum or rough edge.Check this 1st also the inner paddles are okay...

These symptoms appear to be a problem with the drive system which includes the inverter that drives the drive motor and of course the drive belt. Verify first if you can hear the drive motor running and if yes, the drive belt has broke or slipped off the pulleys. Remove the screws securing the rear access panel and pull it outward from the middle to access and check the condition of the drive belt. Reinstall it if possible or replace it if necessary. Wrap it around the motor pulley then on one side of the drum pulley and turn the pulley in the direction in such a way that the belt will wrap the drum pulley.

Turn the drum pulley and the motor pulley with and without the drive belt if upon checking, the drive belt is still on. It will be known if there's restriction in either of the motor or the drum that prevents the machine from agitating or spinning. Try to start the machine with the drive belt off if no restriction is found which indicates that either the drive motor or the inverter is at fault.

Check the resistance of the motor windings (normally around 6 ohms across each of the 3 phases;otherwise, replace the motor) if the motor still doesn't run with the drive belt off. Check the continuity of the wire harness connecting the inverter and the drive motor if the winding resistances are good. Consider replacing the inverter if no problem is found with the drive motor and the wire harness.

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I removed the three screws, and lower cover cleaned the few pennies, screws and nasty gunk build up from the filter. The wash machine seems to function as it did prior to the clogged issue. Thank you everyone !!!

you might have soap buildup,, run it without anything in it and no soap,, also make sure it is tilted to the back (very little tilt)

Important for you is to observe the point of leak for which you might have a good access point. So place the washer a little elevated and use a good light to probe. Check for leaks from the drain hose connectors, the drain valve/pump, the bearings in the drum or overflowing from the drum due to faulty seal gaskets or water level sensors.
Once this is seen the component can be confirmed and removed/replaced.