Hello SMCCRAVE,
You are referring to a top loader problem.
A front loader is different the following is from the youtube page that has video explaining the possible issues!
Washing machine not spinning? This video provides information on how to troubleshoot a front-load washer that won't spin and the most likely defective parts associated with this problem. These are sorted from most likely to least likely to be the issue.
Commonly replaced washer parts:
Drive belt
Door lock switch
Motor control board
Stator/rotor
Drive motor
Good Luck!
Rich Lilja
Generally speaking you will need to at least remove the top of the machine,usually there are a few screws and then it pops off.Also see if the control panel has a screw in it that attaches to the top of the machine.If so you will need to remove this also to avoid breaking the panel. Hopefully you will be able to view all you need to , do you see any signs of the drum hanging awkward like for instance it seems to pitch back,if so there is the issue.I have had to reattach the suspension spring that balances the drum.If so get a good pair of locking pliers to stretch that spring back to its original location,this could have come off during transportation.Hope this helps.
It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways andis the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it isimportant that your observation is most important and so is vital to theidentification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water hasleaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on theunderside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here.In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of thehouse and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside.Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be looseon the grip which can all cause the leak to occur. Removing and cleaning thedrain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water canleak if there are gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but thiswill happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.Tips for leak: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1461/do-you-have-a-leaky-washing-machine.html Check for tips on the link below to identify parts andremoval:http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. If you run the washer with no clothes in it does it still do this? If it does then you have a problem with the load leveling shocks and spring mechanism that holds the drum level during the spin cycle.
This one indicates a "drain problem" per the manual...
I had to call for service, and I had a baby sock that got sucked into and was blocking the drain. Thank God for the service plan...
This is likely an electronic glitch as no problem is detected during the diagnostic. Unplug the machine for at least 30 minutes to forcibly reset the control. The longer the machine is unplugged, the better. If the machine still behaves the same after this, the problem is likely the motor control unit (MCU) located at the base of the machine. It has been found that a malfunctioning MCU can lead to an erratic operation of the central control unit (CCU) and it may give codes or signals that cannot be found in any troubleshooting literature. The MCU is probably sending false signals to the CCU that is triggering a premature completion of the cycle. There's nothing we can do about this problem as of the moment if the problem is not rectified by unplugging the machine. Brace yourself for a total breakdown of the MCU in the near future.
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Hello, The way to clean the drain pump filter is remove the small front panel below the main one where the door is,the pump will on the right side,unscrew the big white knob justa little bit and have some towels to catch the water that will come out.Once all the water is out unscrew completly and pull it out.
Make sure the floor is sturdy. Reinforce the floor with at least a 3/4" thick plywood if necessary. The next thing to look at is the rear tub bearing and the spinner support, a.k.a spider assembly, the three-arm assembly that holds the basket to the shaft. Try to move the basket in all direction then turn it manually and check it for any noise. Do the same with the drive pulley. If the vibration during the spin cycles or when the basket and drive pulley are turned manually is accompanied by a clanking noise, then you likely have a broken spider assembly. Here
are some videos showing what a broken spider assembly looks like and how
it makes the clanking noise when it is completely broken.
Remove the dispensing tray and take it to the sink. On the under side of the tray are molded in caps that fit over tubes at the washer. Clean the caps out well. A Q tip works well for this. Also clean the tubes on the inside and outside at the washer. The way it works is you put the softener in the cup, up to the line. When the washer is ready to dispense the softener, it begins to add water to the cup, raising the level. As the level overflows the cup, it passes under the cup and into the tube, creating a syphon effect, drawing the softener out of the cup. When the level in the cup falls below the level of the cap, the effect is broken, and no more will be drawn into the washer. That's why there is usually a little water left in the cup. Cleaning the cups and tubes allows for more of the water to be removed. Best regards, --W/D--
This sounds very much like either the belt is slipping or the motor is malfunctioning. Following first are my standard machine guidance notes for a belt change, then notes for a motor change (which we hope is not required!)
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Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
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If it turns out to be the motor, it is false economy to just have the brushes changed. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished.
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Hope this is your problem solved.
Good luck,
John C
