Top 10 Kenmore 46462 Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

Please see what I (royale) have done with my problem.

I had the same problem with it stopping mid cycle and lights flashing. Turns out all i needed to do was clean out the very clogged drain pump filter. it is located just behind the front kick panel. it unscrews and pulls right out. there was a nasty accumulation there. ran great afterwards.

I am a recently retired engineer of 20 years once you have ruled out anything getting inside the machine by accident etc, like something in pockets or greasy overalls, then its likely to be the drum bearings, has the machine started to get noisy on the spin the drum bearings are covered by a rubber seal, this seal gets damaged or worn and water leaks into the bearings themselves washing out the grease back into the drum where the washing is, you could also notice slight water marks on the floor underneath the machine on the floor, take the back off and look for water marks coming from the drum outer casing behind the pulley, these marks will be brown and will originate from a small drain hole, if any of the above change the bearings before any real damage is done, either to the clothes or the machine, as repair can be expensive? sorry, hope i have helped you as to where to look at least,

This solution is the best! Thank you so much. You just saved us a whole bunch of $$$ and frustration. 1 baby sock and 1 pair of undies later - the machine is back to normal. THANK YOU!

unplug from power source...remove front lower panel (3 sheet metal screw wirh 1/4" drive head located on the lower lop of the panel)...open pump strainer (looks like a large stove knob, Turn it counter clokwise, lookout! lots of water will gush out... back flush the pump by filling the outet of the drain hose ( this may dislodge debris that may jam your pump)...re-assemble, plug to power, and turn-on. In my case, there was a piece of a pencil lodge in the pump impeller. I had to disassemble the pump. it can be done if you are patient and able to figure out how the plastic thing come apart. Good luck! If all else call the pros!

I have a kenmore front load washer, model: 417 42042100
It makes loud noise and becomes louder during the spin cycle.
The drum is loose when I inspected through the front door.
My problem is how to open the cabinet and replace any broken parts.

Thanks.

Here's what the problem is. 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UwpKP_9_fAA&feature=player_embedded

It's been designed to fail so that you buy an expensive part. 

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin
It pumps, but doesn't spin
It spins only with the lid closed
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

F03 error code means that there is either fill problem, a drain problem or a water level pressure switch failure .

First ensure the machine is filling.
When the drain system is causing the F03 error do the following.

Ensure that the drain hose is not kinked or clogged.

If the drain hose is OK check the drain pump.

Start unplugging washer from main and remove the service panel at the bottom.

Follow the instructions on manual to remove panel.

Access the water pump and remove the hoses, clear any blockage in there.

Use a container to collect the water, be prepared. If machine has lot of water inside, remove some water with a sponge before undoing the pump.

This can mean 1 or 2 things

No water detected entering machine or Pressure switch trip not detected.

If after 30 seconds the control does not detect water entering machine and then valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed.
Or
If the control has turned the water valves on and after 8 minutes the flow meter has detected 10.5 gallons of water passing through it, but has not detected the pressure switch trip, the valves will be turned off and the error code will flash.

If there is no water in the unit:
1. Make sure that both valves at the water source(s) are turned on all the way.
2. Check for plugged or kinked inlet hoses or plugged screens in the inlet valves
3. Verify inlet valve operation

• If there is water in the unit:
  1. Verify Drain pump operation
  2. Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch
• Verify there is not a siphon problem
• Verify wire harness connections to:Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Check all hoses for possible leaks
• Verify pressure switch operation
• Verify flow meter operation
• Verify CCU operation

OR it could mean

Motor Control Unit (MCU) Heat Sink Thermal Trip
If the thermal protector on the MCU heat sink gets too hot, it will open the thermal protector on the heat sink which will stop motor functions and an "E10" will be displayed

• Check for Proper Installation, verify the unit is not located near a source of heat and has proper ventilation.
• Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
• Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components
• Check MCU
• Check Motor

April 8 2002 DIV 26 SOURCE 110 KENMORE ELITE HE3 & HET WASHERS "ADD-A-GARMENT" INDICATOR LIGHT ON DOOR WON'T UNLOCK WHEN PAUSE/CANCEL BUTTON IS DEPRESSED.

MODELS: See additional page for Kenmore model numbers

COMPLAINT: Due to a Microcomputer Machine Control software error , the ADD-A-GARMENT feature becomes inoperative.

CORRECTION: The Microcomputer Machine Control must be replaced with a service part that has been reprogrammed to prevent ADD-A-GARMENT feature loss.

PARTS: Order electronic control listed on this service flash by model from Division 26 , Source 110 following normal ordering procedure.

MERCHANDISE CODES: WASHER Service Flash - Model Nurnbers for: Kenmore Elite HE3 & HE3t Washers: "ADD-A-GARMENT" indicator light on door won't unlock when Pause/Cancel button is depressed. Kenmore models with serial Numbers beginning with CSL23 through CSM04 11042822200 11042824200 11042826200 11042832200 11042834200 11042836200 11042922200 11042924200 11042926200 11042932200 11042934200 11042936200 Electronic conrrol p/n 8181900 Electronic control p/n 8181899



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