20 Most Recent Samsung Digimax S730 Digital Camera - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Your Bettery Is Old
You Need To change It

As you would expect, this is not a good sign at all.

Probably, something happened to the drive train responsible for folding in the optics. Now it all depends on what the "something" was.

Start by ensure the battery is fully charged: you don't want to go haring for a hardware failure when the problem is only not enough juice to the motor assembly. Try getting the battery out, then in again, to clear some unlikely (but best try it first) electrical problems.

At this point we're most likely looking at a motor train failure.

If you hear a buzzing sound on power off, the motor is working but it's not gearing to the drive train itself. OR, it is engaging but there's a physical resistance foiling its operation. This could be caused by something (grit, sand, ...) between the telescope rings, or a small "overextension" or misalignment of the telescope assembly.
First the easy check: verify there's nothing between the telescope rings. Try gently working a corner of a plastic (not paper! if it shears inside, it'll worsen the problem!) sheet between the rings and check there's no obstacle.
If that was it, you're all set up. Enjoy your working camera.

If there is no dust, no sand, no grit, and yet it doesn't close, check the telescoping rings are axially aligned. If they are not, be very sure of which ring is the misaligned one and try twisting it back in the correct position. Do not overforce, and do not use tools; if you can't fix it with three fingers, a tool would only break it for good.
Third possibility, the rings are aligned but one of them, usually the one nearest the camera body, got "too stuck out". You may be able to fix it, at least temporarily, by gently pressing that telescope assembly ring in, with the machine powered on, and while keeping up the pressure, powering it off. I repeat, "gently". Forcing it won't help. With luck, your pressure will lock the gears against the motor gear enough to make it engage. How permanent the solution is, depends on why it went off-kilter. If it was a physical shock - it banged somewhere - you should be golden; unless something broke and provided it's not banged again, there's no reason why it should disengage again.
If the end-run block (sorry, I'm trying to translate as best I can) broke, then unfortunately the telescope assembly will disengage again the next time you power it on. You can't fix it permanently, it has to be unassembled and repaired.

Back to case zero: you power off the camera and hear no noise at all (except for a 'click' perhaps). The motor isn't running, so it either broke, or its internal connection is loose, or something triggered the end-run safety. Unfortunately you can't fix any of these conditions. Perhaps by pressing in and "rotating" the telescope assembly you might disengage the end-run, IF that is the problem, but there's a big risk of completely breaking the thing.

Other possibility: powering off the camera results in a clack-clack-clacking sound, like a plastic gear misengaging with another. That's probably exactly what it is - the internal drive train is broken or badly misaligned, most likely due to a physical shock (falling, etc.). There is no real chance of fixing it short of taking it back to the shop.

No. the S730 was designed primarily as a still camera, storing high-resolution still images (and incidentally, videos) to memory. It was not designed to stream live video to another device.

That probably wasn't the answer you wanted to see, but there it is.

SD and SDHC cards have a slide switch along one edge. The position farthest from the contacts locks the card, protecting it from writes. The position nearest the contacts unlocks the card. If the switch is already in the proper position, slide it fully the other way and then back again.

It's telling you what lens opening and shutter speed the camera has chosen.

are you shure that the batterie is charged. are you shure that the charger have not a problem and the batterie is not charged. the better is to find a new batterie to prove if the problem is in to the camera or in to the batterie. you can find on ebay international seller to a very god price new external charger and new batterie. i have see that any seller sell two batteries and one charger to 10 euro in usa or in china. look if one friend have the same batterie to prove the camera with another batterie.. if the camera makes the same problem this is a motherboard fault.

Press the self-timer button (right-arrow on the circular multiselector) until the desired mode shows on the monitor. Your choices are 2 seconds, 10 seconds, and double. Press the shutter release button to start the timer.

Full details are in the "Self-timer/Right button" section in the manual, page 27 in the edition on Samsung's web site at
http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200803/20080324103057703_English.pdf

if ur very sure that the battery is fully charged... first we would advice you to change the batteries and see ...... if that doesnt work... the battery contacts may be corroded or bent and hence not making correct contact with the battery
.... sometimes there cud be dust or sand particles in the lens retraction passage... blow out air in those places..... this cud help a great deal.... I was able to fix a similar problem by wiggling the outermost part of the lens.as its trying to go in....
also try Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.
if that doest help
Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install the new batteries, when you turn it on it should come back to life. turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.
if that doesnt help

Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying the above fixes and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.



Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.
Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.

Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

regards iversh

Press the Play mode button (the right-pointing triangle) to get into the PLAY mode. Press the MENU button to display the play mode menu. Use up/down to select "COPY TO CARD."

http://www.samsung.com/us/support/detail/supportPrdDetail.do?menu=SP01&prd_ia_cd=04010300&prd_mdl_cd=&prd_mdl_name=SAMSUNG+S730

You might want to consider NOT connecting the camera to the computer.

The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire). This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won't run down your camera's batteries.

Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system's drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer's hard drive.

Having gone over a month with no response, I assume this is no longer a problem.

The capacitor that charges up can weaken, in time, but usually the zenon bulb will either work or it won't. You may be having a timing problem with the flash and the shutter. Also, some cameras have trouble focusing in dark scenes, also, and that may be happening in your case, in addition to the problem you're having. You can try other scene settings, to see if the camera operates better in those modes. Otherwise, you will have to have a repair shop check it out. Make sure you get an estimate before you do, since repair can be expensive. Wish there was an easy answer and fix to this problem, but there just isn't.

If you are good with a screwdriver and soldering iron there is a common issue on this model with dry solder joins to the flash circuit.

Hi,

Reset your camera. Can you get to your camera's menu when it's connected to your computer? If so, take the memory card out. Then go to menu and reset your camera.

If that doesn't work, see if this resets your camera: turn it on, hold menu button for 20 seconds.
Also adjust your camera to auto mode.
thanks for using Fixya.
Good Luck and have a nice day.

Sounds like one of two problems: the lcd could be bad, or the circuit that processes the pictures could be faulty. There are some ribbon cables inside the camera that can also get "knocked" out of their settings with the camera being dropped, etc. Service will be required to fix it, but you might just opt for getting a newer camera on sale, since the price of repair is often more than the old camera's worth. I've seen 10.2 mp name brand cameras on sale for $69...probably half the cost of repair. Sorry, wish I had better news.

The three beeps mean that the lens motor is unable to extend the lens assembly.
This could be due to a low battery situation, but the most likely cause is the lens drive train stuck or jammed. You'll find generic instructions on solving some cases of jamming here.
http://camerarepair.blogspot.com/2007/12/fixing-lens-error-on-digital-camera.html

Unfortunately, more serious cases (due to falls, shocks, and most of all, the camera being turned on while some resistance prevents the lens from extending: e.g., if the camera accidentally turns on while in a pocket) require the repair shop.

Fixing a Lens Error on a Digital Camera

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include “E18 lens error”, or “lens error, restart camera”. Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.
The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many Canon's, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.
A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.
Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.
The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:
Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.
Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.
Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.
Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.
Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in “no heat” setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).
Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.
Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.
Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.

Fixing a Lens Error on a Digital Camera

This has to be THE most common failure mode for a digital camera. Some common error messages that might show up on the LCD's of cameras with this problem include “E18 lens error”, or “lens error, restart camera”. Some cameras might show nothing at all, but merely make a beeping noise as the lens goes out, then in, then the camera shuts off. Sometimes the lens won't even move.
The problem is actually quite common throughout all camera brands. Usually it's sand or grit interfering with the lens extension mechanism. Or the camera's been dropped with the lens extended. Or the camera has been powered on, but the lens had been blocked preventing its extension. Or the battery ran down with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one BIG contributor to lens errors is using a camera case. Sand, gunk, case fibers, etc... accumulate at the bottom of the case. These materials love to cling to the camera by electrostatic build-up from the camera rubbing against the side of the case (especially those cases with soft fibrous intreriors). Once these materials work their way into the lens mechanism, that's all she wrote. I have many Canon's, and NEVER use a case for this very reason.
A camera owner that suffers this problem may have no recourse for having the camera repaired. Many camera makers will not honor repairing this problem under warranty as they claim it is due to impact damage to the camera, or sand or debris getting into the lens gearing mechanism (neither of which is covered under warranty). The quoted repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth.
Fortunately, about half the cameras that suffer this failure can easily be fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods involve opening the camera, although some have potential to cause other damage to the camera if excessively done. If the camera is still under warranty, before trying any of these, please please first contact your camera's maker to see if they'll cover the repair, or to determine how much they'll charge for the repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote you a number that's higher than the value of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods.
The methods are listed in the order of risk of damaging your camera. Thus make sure you try them in the listed order. And remember, these fixes (especially #6 and 7) should only be considered for a camera that's out of warranty, who's cost of repair would be excessive, and would otherwise be considered for disposal if unrepaired:
Fix #1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Put a fresh set of batteries back in (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500mah or better) and turn the camera on. If that didn't work, try pressing and holding the Function or OK button while turning the camera on.
Fix #2: Remove the batteries, then remove the memory card. Then install new batteries, and turn on the camera. If you get an Error E30, it means you don't have a memory card installed, so turn it off, slip in the memory card and turn it on one last time.
Fix #3: Insert the cameras Audio/Video (AV) cable, and turn the camera on. Inserting this cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off during the start process. Thus extra battery power is available to the camera's lens motor during startup. This extra power can be useful in overcoming grit or sand particals that may be jamming the lens. If the AV cable doesn't fix the lens error by itself, consider keeping this cable installed while trying fixes 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra help to these fixes. But note that I DON'T recommend keeping the cable installed during Fix 6 as you may damage the AV port while tapping the camera. Reinsert the cable only AFTER tapping the camera.
Fix #4: Place the camera flat on its back on a table, pointed at the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button down, and at the same time press the power-on button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extending, hopefully seating the lens barrel guide pins in their slots.
Fix #5: Blow compressed air in the gaps around the lens barrels with the idea of blowing out any sand or grit that may be in there jamming the lens. Other variations include blowing with a hair dryer in “no heat” setting, or sucking the gaps with a vacuum (careful with this one).
Now we're entering into the realm of potentially damaging your camera in conducting the fix. There is definitely some risk here, so take care when conducting the following two fixes.
Fix #6: Repeatedly tap the padded/rubber usb cover on a hard surface with the intent of dislodging any particles that may be jamming the lens. Other variations include hitting a side of the camera against the palm of your hand. A lot of people have reported success with this method. HOWEVER, there is also some potential for damaging or dislodging internal components with this method, such as unseating ribbon cables, or cracking LCD screens.
Fix #7: Try forcing the lens. More people have reported success with this method than with any of the other methods. HOWEVER, there's obviously some potential for damaging your camera by using this method. Variations include gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while hitting the power button. Attempt to gently straighten or align the barrel if it's crooked or twisted. Another variation includes looking for uneven gaps around the lens barrel, and then pushing on the side of the lens barrel that has the largest gap (note pushing the lens barrel all the way in is NOT recommended as it may become stuck there). While doing any of the above, listen for a click that indicates that the lens barrel guide pins may have reseated in their guide slots. If you hear this click, immediately stop and try the camera.