20 Most Recent LG 42PC3D 42 in. Plasma Television - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Hi
A common problem for these is bad capacitors in the power supply, Remove the back from your Tv and look at the power supply on the left hand side.

You will see roughly around 9 x capacitors that are bulged / domed shaped on top usually these are valued at 3300uf 10V any that have bulged or leaked a brown like substance should be changed.
This will cure the problem as they overheat being sat next to a heatsink that gets very hot!
Try and change them for the same 3300uf but a higher voltage.
Hope this help in solving the problem....

You are quite correct. Germany is PAL and USA is NTSC a totally different colour processing is carried out with Pal.
It is always a shame when one goes to the expense of bringing an item that is much treasured to another country.
No good news I am sorry to say as I am not aware of a convertor at the moment however, you may find that a device called a Copy Mate will do it. It strips the video from the source and re builds it in a format of your choice. Have a look at http://www.copymate.eu/
Hope this helps.

The ghosting is a sign of slight image retention and the reddish hue is over diffusion. This can normally be fixed by a voltage adjustment on the power supply.
Unplug the set and take the back off
Plug the set back in and turn the set on
With a digital voltage meter find the test point on the power supply that says VS. If you cannot find it, you can still measure it at the connector. It will say VS in a few different places.
Compare that voltage with the voltage that is on the sticker that is on the panel. If it does not match
Take a small screw driver and find the pod that says vs adjust and adjust the voltage to what the sticker says. If it already matches, then raise or lower it about 10 volts or until the picture starts clearing up. If it does not clear up either direction, then you will need to replace your logic board, which is the small board near the middle of the panel. Worst case scenario is that your panel if faulty, which would not be cost effective to replace.

I would be checking the power supply first for bad electrolytic caps that are bad, very common on that set.

what type of remote? Make and model #

www.tvcodes.com
www.remotecodelist.com
www.remote-codes.com
www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/codes.shtml

Go to nearest help centre and check your tv

Hi wrensch511,

Here are some basic steps that will help you fixing the problem.

I'm assuming that your unit is dead set without an standby LED light and your outlet is live.1.Power cord - check the cord it might be opened (no continuity).This is due to frequent bending,pulling. 2. Power switch - check for dry joints, open contact. 3.Check the internal fuse- sometimes the fuse fail because of the power surge, replacing with new one will cure the problem, If this is the case I would advice you to use surge protector/AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulator). However if the fuse blew again this is an indication that you have a shorted parts in the power supply, you may visit the linkhttp://www.fixya.com/support/r8053361-fuse_keeps_blowing for more info. If no reaction and still the unit didn't power up then you have an open parts on the power supply.

4.If you see that the fuse is intact , don't attempt to touch anything because there some fatalcomponents stored electricity enough to hurt you with a simple mistake only. I would advice you to look for a professional to troubleshoot the power supply. If you want to repair it yourself make sure that you have necessary tools and test instrument. First check bad solder joints(re-solder all cold solder), leaky electrolytic capacitor(sometimes it has bulged at the top but not all, you better have a capacitor checker), open/shorted regulator transistor/IC(mounted in heat sink), open fusible resistor (caused by shorted regulator Transistor/IC), shorted zener diode.

You may also replace the power supply board, try online http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=LG+42PC3D&_sacat=0&_odkw=d038+transistor&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313

http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=LG+42PC3D

Also check if your unit is under warranty before opening the back panel, it will void the warranty. Avail it because the manufacturer of your unit will fix it for free or a little charge only.

Hope I helped you.

Have a nice day!

Thanks for using fixya.

These can be a bit of a bugger, but I find grabbing all the wires at once and rotating in a circle as I pull will usually dislodge them.

Ok, I'll take a S.W.A.G. (scientific wild a** guess) at this:
1. The "pop" you heard was most likely a capacitor or short venting its self. I would not be surprised if you find the cover of the capacitor completely separated from the base. Even though the "capacitor plague" is supposedly over the are still millions of them "floating around".
2. From your brief description, I gather you have had indications of this problem before. The the previous Z-board failure was most likely brought on by an unstable power fluctuation ( the weakest link in the chain fails first ).
3. Upon inspection of the visual damaged component, trace back to the video power distribution section/card and perform voltage/amperage/frequency test. I suspect you will find power filtering/stabilization problems. The cure ( subsequent to board replacement ) probably filtering capacitors, baring other heat/component damage.
That's about the best I can do with the information at hand. If it is helpful ( the correct solution ) feel free to send me "a cup of internet coffee and a donut".
Sincerely
Doc Michael

Check the input! if the lines are strait then its likely to be input problems check the cables and inputs.
Adam

Sounds a lot like a common problem; cheap capacitors. When low quality parts are used, they will chemically decay over time when used in certain types of circuits (switched mode power supplies) and they become even more heat sensitive and finally lose enough capacitance that they no longer can do their job.
Your set probably has two separate power supplies; a main supply and likely another that produces the the high voltage for the plasma display. If you feel like trying to locate the defective circuit, you will need 'freeze spray' available anywhere electronic parts are sold. I'd recommend two cans minimum. (Comment back for further instructions.) If you don't want to delve into the guts this way, you will still have to pull the plug from the AC, let the set sit overnight so that some high voltage circuits can discharge, remove the back panel, look for smaller boards with larger parts on it. Try to discern the purpose by tracing wiring to locate a board that seems more related to the AC line and the other that will have leads going to the plasma display. This latter one isn't likely the culprit since you have both video and audio dying. That points to the main supply. Look for a date or a paper label on the main supply board, call the LG service center and inquire about repair or the replacement cost of it. These assemblies are normally plugged in and with dissimilar connectors, it's hard to make a mistake when replacing them. If uncertain, take a number of snapshots of the guts so you can refer to it later.

that sounds like the main board buddy

no expert but when mine did this i changed the cords i used to hook up the tv to my cable was using a HDMI cord switched back to componet wires after a few days i plugged the HDMI back up and it worked fine. hopefully this is your problem cause its a easy solution

It is the power supply board, and you might be able to get a new power supply at www.partstore.com If not then just have the electrolytic caps replace on power supply module and it will fix the problem.

change the y saux

it is going to be a failure of the Z sustain board if you can see dark video. you can either replace the Z sustain board or the IPM that is bad on the Z sustain. the board is about $175.00 or so part number is 6871QZH034 I THINK.

On the remote control there is a zoom button. Your picture is zoomed in x2. You need to set it to normal.