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Makita 18V LXT Lithium - Ion Cordless Impact Driver Kit Model BTD140 - Page 2 Questions & Answers
Makita impact driver wobble
Many of my customers that use this tool heavily have the same problem. It's usually the Hammer Case (PN 154590-6). The nose if the case is the bushing that holds the anvil in place and sometimes wears out of round. Rarely the anvil (PN 324432-0) wears where it passes through the hammer case so check that also.
The screw point got stuck inside of the makita
Low quality steel drill bits get stuck in the Makita because the hammer impact squashes the metal, forming a ridge that gets snagged on the anvil's steel ball bearing. Use only impact drill bits.
Replace chuck on Makita cordless drill
The BTD 140 only has a sleve, spring, washer, clip and 2 balls. If you need to replace the bit holder then it is part of the shaft (324432-0) that comes from inside the gearbox.Cover unscrews from the body.
I have a 18 volt
Try holding the bit with pliers and running in reverse, maybe with a shot of oil. That might free it up. You can also try tapping it (firmly) on the side of the bit
Btd 140 rfe chuck not spinning true
The usual reason for major wobble of the spindle is a worn gearcase. It can easly be replaced. Any good repair agent can do it. If you want to do it yourself. Simply remove the circlip holding the chuck sleve on then take off the washer, spring and balls. release the light unit from underneath and take off the locking block. The gearbox cover will then unscrew (but can be tight) I think it is lefthand thread.Check spindle for wear and lubricate the bush bearing in the new gearcase, then rebuild in reverse mode
Makita Drill's battery is stuck on
IT IS THE DUST THAT IS CAUSING THE PROBLEM. YOU COULD TRY HOLDING THE LATCH BUTTON ON THE BATTERY AND THEN BANG THE BACK OF THE BATTERY AGAINST THE WORK SURFACE TO KNOCK IT OFF. CLEAN IT UP AND TRY A LIGHT SPRAY OF MR SHEEN. DUST WILL STICK TO ANY WET SURFACE SO NOT A LOT.
Makita Impact Driver BDT 140 problem
Overheating is usually caused by bad bearings on the front and/or back of the armature. The bearings should spin very freely and the armature should not touch the magnet at all. If one or both bearings overheated it is possible they cooked the lightweight grease out of them and froze up. Another thing to look at is the place where the bearings rest in the housing. If they are melted or deformed causing the armature to rub against the magnet they'll cause a build up of heat and loss of power. If the bearings are bad you have to replace the armature, if the bearing mounts are deformed you have to replace the housing set and armature depending on how much damage was done by the overheating.
One question please, I have makita cordlless
according to the schematic I saw yes you can and I think that you will be pleased with its performance, their operator manual even lists the weight of tool with this battery. Makita has a 1 year limited warranty on the Li-Ion battery that you might want to consider if you have the receipt.
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