20 Most Recent Makita 18V LXT Lithium - Ion Cordless Impact Driver Kit Model BTD140 - Page 4 Questions & Answers

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Makita carries a one year warranty free replacement and an extended two year if you purchased it when you bought the tool. No, you cannot jump it as you will kill it for sure. Make sure you charger is working properly, Green light flashing means improper power from your outlet or the charger has alot of dust in it and is running to hot, especially if the fan is not running the red light will flash. Blow it out with a moisture-free dust remover and try again. Plug the charger in first before putting the battery on. If the red and green light flash at the same time than the battery is bad. Solid red light means it is charging, solid green light means it is charged. If they are dead it is not cost affective to buy two new ones, as for a little more you can get a new kit and extra tool out of the deal w/ a new charger. Good Luck

you pulled the retaining ring off the end of the chuck shaft. Not to worry go to Makitatools.com and type in your model number and it will take you to a page where you can download a schematic on the repair of this.

First, check the lever on the top of the drill (high/ low lever speed) and make sure it is engaged in one of the positions. If it is in the middle it will cause your drill to stop. Otherwise, the gear box is gone and will need to replaced. The part # you need is #125-429-0 and it runs about $59.20.
Good luck

Hi mate,you need a step down/step up transformer,try e-bay they sell tons of them..50-100 AU$

Battery defective. Seek replacement.

You have me confused. Both of these tools have the quick release collar on the anvil. Exactly what are you trying to do. It appears from the schematics I just looked at that they are virtually identical in design. If you need more info I would suggest going to Makitatools.com and typing in your model number and downloading both breakdowns. Hope this helps

if you insert the battery in and out rappidly the charger will cycle between 4 songs and a muted setting

The varistor you have to change is the one that runs parallel on the current after the fuse, in my case it was easy to find as it was the one with the plastic hood on it.

I'm going to update the webpage with some new pictures that I hope would hetp to clarify it.

what is the setting in your clutch. if you set the clutch to the highest setting and it`s still slipping then you need transmission assy.

the makita impact drivers are picky about the bit that you use. if you use a single sided bit you have to make sure the distance between the channel and the end is 9mm (3/8) and if you're using a double sided bit you have to make sure the distance from tip to channel is 12mm (15/32)

try using a 1/4" wrench on the bit in reverse while pulling the collar back. if that doesnt work, tap the tip of the bit with a hammer with the collar pulled back

The screw should be left hand thread and the chuck is normal thread. The 'workshop' way to remove the chuck is to remove the screw (done). If the jaws are still working then clamp a sturdy allen key in it and whack it against a workbench to unscrew the chuck. If holding the drill in the normal position you would stand with the workbench to your left and whack it down on that. If the jaws aren't working then you can grip the body in a vice and use large pipe grips or stiltsons on the chuck. Also check to see if the chuck spindle will accept a thin spanner to hold it, as this is a slightly more caring way to brace the spindle. Then you can can hold the spanner in the vice and use the allen key in the chuck and unscrew it that way.

The most popular size is 3/8 inch, which means it accommodates a 3/8-inch diameter bit. Smaller ¼-inch drills are less expensive, but more limited. Heavy duty jobs might require a ½-inch model.

You will find a screw inside the chuck that needs to come out first of all but beware that it will be a reverse thread. This is to stop it loosening whilst in use. then you will need to unscrew the chuck but it isn't easy as you have to hold the shaft that the chuck is attatched to. You can sometimes take the chuck off by holding it and pulling the trigger while in reverse. (but they can be stuck fast).

ya. see www.ereplacementparts.com for price & cost of the parts.

according to my breakdown its a drill. do you checked if there is a screw inside the chuck. if there is one remove it by turning clockwise.open the chuck fully & insert allen key 5/16 or 3/8 short side to the chuck.tighten the chuck & wak the allen key with a hammer counter clockwise. do it again if required.putting back together the other way.

Also bought the new ion kit 3.0 didn't have it for a full month battiers gave me a problem. I bought one and didn't use it for a full week and did the same thing!!

might be cam or eccentric problem

then you need transmision assy. item 14 in breakdown
see toolpartsdirect.com for further info on your drill

The chuck is held onto the drive shaft via screw located inside the chuck. The screw has reverse threads and sometimes the screw gets loose restrictinhg the chuck tightening. Turn the chuck to loosen and tighten the screw as though you were removing a normal screw. Good luck