20 Most Recent Mitsubishi Diamond WD-65831 65" Projection HDTV - Page 2 Questions & Answers

I presume you mean 1080i and if so what is the source for the signal?

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Good day!!!That problem is not fixed by resetting of unit..That problem is usually cause of faulty light engine..Try to replace it with the part # (part number usually indicated on the engine itself printed in sticker)..Hope it helps..

Check the Lamp Fan, if it stops running when Lamp trys to Light then set will shut off to protect the Lamp.If the Lamp Fan is OK then it will be Ballast that connects to Lamp it is what powers Lamp on.

There is little you can do. Your DMD's micro mirrors are stuck. Need to replace DMD.

sonsunny

The convergence ICs most likely need to be resoldered very common problem with some models Mitsubishis.I would try resoldering the ICs pins.

Have you tried accessing the self diagnosis feature by pressing the menu and device buttons both together and holding for for 5 seconds? If not try that and let me know the error code. It will be a two digit blink sequence which will repeat a few times. Let me know what the blink sequence is.

My thanks to your husband (and all who are involved in this stupid conflict) for his service.
You didn't mention whether there was a pattern to the blinking which in some sets can be decoded  into a specific problem. I'll assume it is a regular blink rate you have.
All modern sets have a standby state that allows them to respond to the remote when they are 'off.'  The power for the LED that's blinking comes from this 'always on' power supply and the fact that it is blinking probably (and unfortunately) means that either the main power supply has failed or possibly the lamp in some brands.
Because this can come from more than one place, it's not possible to determine which source it might be.  The owner's manual might give info under 'Troubleshooting' as to the source.
If you don't have the manual available, you can download one here:
Mitsubishi Manual 
If you find that it is the main power supply, this is likely on a separate board and may be user replaceable.
Pull the AC plug from the wall and let it sit for at least a couple of hours to allow certain components to loose any dangerous charge. Remove the lower panel from the set and look for a board with larger than average parts on it, particularly cylindrical objects (capacitors) and larger dark blocks (transformers). Look on that board for a part number for the board (not the components).
Locate the nearest Mitsubishi repair company and call to see if they repair failed boards or only sell new. Once you have the price for it (could be $90-$200 US), you can decide if you want to replace or repair it.
Replacing the board is probably not rocket science and have had several ladies do this on their own.       
If you find it is the lamp that has failed, this is also something you can do without great technical skills and the prices for these ranges from ~$125 - $200.

Hi,
Your first problem has a connection with the bulb, once the bulb is faulty you will be able to turn it on but subsequent shutdown will follow. Now the second problem might be in the power supply section since it would not turn on totally. The trouble now is quite technical and complicated, I've advice you to look a professional to troubleshoot the problem.
Hope it may help you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using Fixya.

Try lamp, and thermal sensor.

If the light continues to flash with no picture and you still get sound, your bulb is out. Though it could be any number of issues. To reset a Mitsubishi, hold the power button down for approx. 10-15 seconds until you hear a faint click.

12 means no error. The device and menu buttons have to be pushed after unplugging and re-plugging for the error code operational check to work. If you have done that and if its still the same, then please tell me which LED is blinking so that I can help you. I remember your tv has 3 LEDs at the front.

Projection TV sets have two very common problems oulined below.

Problem #1: Convergence Chip Failure ( common problem )

Here are some of the most common symptoms and example photos of a convergence problem

• Screen looks 3D
• Colors don't line up
• One or more colors can't be adjusted when using the convergence menu.
• Screen is bowed or warped.
• No Audio/Video - TV Makes Chirping Sound

Here is a quick test....

Using your original remote go-to the tv settings then goto the convergence section.

Try to adjust the red and then the blue convergence.



You should be able to move them up, down, left, and right.

If you can't move them in all directions your convergence chips are bad and should be replaced. This is a common problem.

Solution #1

You need to replace the convergence chips and convergence resistors. Check the site www.TvRepairKits.com. They have put together a kits for most models. If you don't see a kit for your set send them a quick note and they will put one together for you. Their kits include a photo instruction guide, original OEM Sanyo STK chips, convergence resistors, pico fuses, etc.


Problem #2 CRT Fluid is Cloudy

Projection TV tubes have a liquid coolant that is used to keep them from overheating. After many years the coolant in the blue and green tubes will become cloudy and cause the screen to look dull, red/orange, etc. You may even see halos around images.

Picture of a set that needs the fluid changed.


TV set after fluid change



Solution #2


What you will need to do is replace the coolant and clean the crt. You can get a repair kit from www.TvRepairKits.com that includes replacement coolant, photos. instructions, etc

Try website like Remotes.com to buy an exact remote to the original remote.