Top 20 LG WM0642H Front Load Questions & Answers

If the breaker tripped, something shorted to ground in your control panel. You resetting the breaker and pushing the power button then cause something to burn further. I would suggest turning off the breaker then taking the control panel off to see where the "burning smell and small amount of smoke" came from. Look to see if a wire was rubbing against metal somewhere.

Try turning the water pressure down. If you have high water pressure the water comes into the dispenser to hard and splashes over the front & side of the dispenser draw the trickles down the inside of the front panel out on to the floor. Very common front loader problem.

If the washer is making a loud noise while the drum turns, the rear drum with bearing might need to be replaced. On this washer the bearing might not be sold separately, the entire rear drum might have to be replaced. This is a very involved repair and will require disassembling most of the washer should it be the bearing. This work will need a technically minded person to accomplish.

If the washer is leaking water the drain pump might have a hole or crack. Or, the bearings might be worn out. Replace the drain pump if it is leaking water, they're not repairable. Check also the condition of the hoses and clamps going to and from the pump and the filter rubber seal.

What exactly is the problem? Does it drain the water before entering into the spin mode?

You must slide it towards the front, not the back.

The agitator has a gear like attachment that meets the long shaft up the center of the tub. If the alignment is off and not exactly in place the agitator will move or the gear-like part will wear down, become rounded, or break. The agitator must fit perfectly and tight. A nut on top (under the cap) has to be turned down tight.

Turn off your water supply, disconnect the hoses from the washer itself, where the hoses connect is two non removable plastic screens. They are most likely clogged. What i usually do is put a mop bucket on the floor below the ports and then slowly turn on the cold water and use it to wash the debris out. After you do that hook everything back up and she should work fine. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

if its not damage no need to replace ,after filling water inside the drum,,pull out it & clean with some metal wire...with the water all the dirty will come out,,

The washer tripped the breaker once and OR after the breaker was reset it ran additional loads with no problem then it tripped the breaker again. Intermittent problems are always difficult to diagnose because the problem usually doesn't occur when you're making the checks. If the washer ran additional loads the problem will not be an electrical short with one of the washer parts. If the lid switch had a short it wouldn't run the additional loads. You don't say if the additional loads used the same cycle as previously. A timer can have an internal short that might trip the breaker in heavy duty cycle but not the permanent press cycle. If you have access to a clamp on amp meter, see the image below, then you can check the amp draw of the washer. The washer normally will draw about 10-15 amps at start up and about 5-8 amps while running. The house breaker for you washer should be rated at 20 amps. If the washer is running and drawing less than 20 amps and the breaker trips then if can be a weak house breaker. Mid cycle the washer is most likely draining or spinning and if the bearing or pump locks up then the washer may draw additional amps to try to start and trip the breaker. The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips. To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty. If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet. If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets. Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

Check the machines damper or shock absorbers for condition. Replace all if one is faulty.

Make sure that the small plastic feet on the bottom of the machine are all adjusted correctly so that there is no movement on the machine when rocked from side to side when empty. Adjust by screwing in or out to get the exact level required.

The LE code denotes problems with the motor and not the PCB

Motor Overload problem

LOUD NOISES IN washing MACHINE; LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, THE BELT LOOSE OR WORN, THE CLUTCH, THE TRANNY, THE BEARINGS BOTH TUB SEAL AND BEARING, THE REAR DRUM BEARING, the balance or counter weights. THE DRIVE PULLEY- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive pulley might be worn out, cracked, loose or bent. Remove the drive pulley and inspect it carefully. If it is damaged or defective replace it. THE TRANSMISSION, THE MOTOR COUPLER, THE MOTOR DRIVE BEARINGS, THE DRIVE MOTOR- If the washer is making a loud noise the drive motor bearings may have worn out. Washer motors are normally almost silent when they run. If the motor is run without a belt hooked up to it and it's loud it will have to be replaced. The drive coupling connects the motor to the transmission and consists of two plastic drive forks with a rubber coupling between them. One of the drive forks is attached to the drive motor shaft and the other is attached to the transmission input shaft. As the motor shaft rotates, the rubber coupling between the drive forks absorbs the torque to prevent the forks from breaking. Normal use will create wear on the coupling and eventually the drive forks may slip and cause a vibrating noise. If the transmission seizes or if the spin basket cannot turn freely, then the coupling may fail and again you may experience a vibrating noise. Most models will require you to remove the cabinet to access the drive coupler. Disconnect power from the appliance before attempting any repairs. A worn drive block will usually have a pounding sound, like hammering metal, during spin when it first starts. If there is enough interlocking tab left on the drive block, you'll see it finally engage at top speed with an empty basket. In a transmission lock up the holes get enlarged in the rubber isolator and the studs break off the motor and transmission couplers. This is usually caused by the abrupt motor reversal between the agitate and pump out functions. If you hear a loud bang every time the motor reverses, the coupler is getting loose. An obvious sign of a failed coupler is a pile of black rubber shavings under the washer. If the motor runs and the agitate and spin functions don't work, the studs may have broken off the coupler (old coupler design) or the coupler may have broken at the shaft (new design) and you need a new coupler kit. The coupler can also just crack around its center hole allowing it to slip on the motor or transmission shaft hampering those functions. If the washer is making a loud noise the drain pump might be going bad or might have something caught in it. Remove the drain pump from the washer and inspect it carefully. Look for anything that might be caught in it, a piece of wire, plastic, etc. If nothing is wrong with the pump, but it's still noisy it will have to be replaced. Front load washers often use a self contained electric drain pump and the motor may be worn or damaged and require the complete pump to be replaced. Remove any foreign objects or replace the worn or damaged pump, thencarefully tighten the hose clamps and check for leaks before installing the cabinet or front panel. All front-load washing machines have shock absorbers that are used to dampen the tub movement in the spin cycle. The shock absorbers or struts are attached to the base frame and to the outer tub and you will need to remove the front panel or the rear panel to access them. When shock absorbers weaken or become damaged, the machine will often make a loud banging sound during the spin cycle and if the symptom is not corrected, can lead to damage of other components. Inspect the shocks for signs of broken attachments, leaked fluids or a weakened dampening action and replace both shocks if worn. Remove power from the appliance before attempting this repair. Some models of top-load washers use tub dampening straps to cushion the movement of the tub during the spin cycle. There are four straps attached to the top of the tub and to each corner of the cabinet Also There are four suspension rods that suspend the tub and allow the tub to free float. If the suspension rods are noisy, there will be a squeaking noise during wash. You can fix this by putting bearing (lithium base) grease in the cup that each rod rests in. If it continues to squeal replace all four rods the cups come with the rods, replace them as well. If your washer has a loud banging noise during spin the balance weight may be loose. This weight is to counter act the weight of the motor so you will find the weight directly behind the motor. Sometimes simply tightening the bolts will fix your issue but if the bolts are stripped out get some bolts slightly longer than the original bolt to allow you to put a locking nut on the bottom side of the mounting plate. If the weight is broken replace it. Lastly Washer vibration can be caused by a broken counter balance spring. Ur washer may be equipped with one or more counter balance springs which help to absorb the natural movement of the spinning tub. If a counter balance spring fails the tub might lean in one direction more than another and it will shake and cause vibration. By the way my advice is free cuz God is good! GRINDING NOISES: The plastic drive is known as a splutch (splined clutch). One problem with these washers has been loosening of the nut that locks the pulley to the agitator input shaft. If it gets loose, the pulley drops and the teeth no longer have good contact with the teeth of the splutch basket drive gear in spin mode. The solution is application of blue locktite to the threads of the input shaft. There have also been a lot of failures of the actuator that operates the cam ring of the splutch which raises and lowers the basket drive gear. It is raised for agitate mode and lowered for spin. There is a spring between the basket drive gear and the gearcase housing that maintains pressure on the basket drive gear. There are cams on the cam ring that ride up and down on cams in the splutch cam (housing) as it is rotated by the actuator thus raising and lowering the basket drive gear. The gearcase has a planetary gear set in it.

problem with heater,,

sorry but it cannot be done, not built to do so

see this causes and fix it. God bless youDrain Pump Filter This is the most common problem. Some have a small cover in the lower front put a screwdriver in the hole and turn counterclockwise to remove. There will be a cover to remove, water will come out so be prepared with a towel or wet vac. Clean this out. Other Machines will need to access the drain pump to get to the filter. This can be done by removing the back panel on some washers. On others you will need to remove the lower panel or complete front panel depending on model. The filter is located inside the large hose from the tub to the pump. Remove the hose and clean filter. Drain Pump The drain pump may have failed. If you hear it making noises you will need to remove the drain pump and check for obstructions, broken impeller, or not spinning freely. Remove obstructions if it does not spin freely replace the drain pump. If you hear it hum replace the pump if nothing is found inside. If no noise is heard check the pump for power. To do this remove the wire connectors and connect a voltmeter turn to a drain cycle, refer to tech sheet or service manual for proper voltage reading, usually any voltage would probally indicate a faulty pump. If no voltage to the pump replace the main control board. Hoses Check the hoses from the pump by disconnecting them and make sure there are no obstructions. Check your hoes drain, if it is a slow drain this can cause your washer to not properly drain.

check ur water inlet valve the coild may be bad do a live test and test for ohms as well

Here is the part you need to order.