Maytag EPIC MFW9700S Front Load Washer - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The WAX MOTOR locking mechanism has failed.
A new WAX MOTOR will have to be installed.

Aha Heater or temp sensor failure. Yer water temp sensor or your heater has failed.




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Front loaders are known for building up mold and the smell.
It's caused by using liquid detergent which is made from animal fat. Use powder. And use the minimum amount.
It's caused by using fabric softener. Dilute it 50/50 with water.
It's caused by the water remaining in the tub between washes. Leave the door open to allow it to dry. .
Pull the rubber door seal back and clean the mold off .
Affresh is recommended by some manufacturers. You run it through a wash cycle with it.
The bleach won't hurt anything. It will kill bacteria etc but it doesn't have any cleaning action.

Check under the machine and locate the adjustable feet. Screw the feet in as far as practical, the further the better. Feel the machine for steadiness and rocking and adjust the foot that shows clearance until it is firmly on the ground and the machine no longer rocks. Check that machine to see if it is level, with a front loader this is not critical, but it should rather not be out of true by a large amount, the important thing is that there must not be any movement on the machine's feet and the machine should not stand too high on its feet either.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Try this first ;-0)
------------------------------------------
I suspect that it is the conditioner/softener part of the dispenser which is causing water to overflow from the drawer so it needs a thorough clean, paying particular attention to the sentences in BOLD ;-0)
Remove the complete drawer. To do this you will have to do one of the following-

• Top catch- push down the lip/catch at the middle rear and pull the drawer out (that's how our Bosch one is removed)
• release the catches underneath (our daughter's Indesit) or
• lift upwards on the tray as it is coming out to clear the lip underneath.

One of these should enable you remove it
(I am having to guess some of the following!)
Once out identify which tray is for the conditioner- the others are simply 'chutes' and open-ended.
It will normally have some sort of cover over it which you must remove to expose the little stuck up pipe/tube. On some models there is just a small individual cap over the tube. The tube is down which the conditioner and water should siphon. It is likely to be blocked by 'gunge'- a mix of powder and conditioner. The whole of the tray, particularly this pipe and the bit which fits over it, must be completely clean and clear for it to operate correctly. It is worthwhile checking fairly regularly.
Good luck,
John C

Hi

The door can be opened only if PAUSE/CANCEL is selected while the ADD A GARMENT light is illuminated or if the cycle has been canceled. To unlock the door after the Add a Garment period, press PAUSE/CANCEL twice. This will cancel the Wash Cycle. If all this won't help then take off the bottom front panel and pull the lever/latch assembly to open the door. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

your seal around the front of your washer has went bad replace seal.

Check the seal around the front load door. It's possible there could be a crack along it.

I don't know the answer, but you can call Maytag @ call 800-688-9900 toll free for a code definition

clean and check pump filter ..if need to take off pump.. bsc appliances 07779933829 uk

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

This is a general remedy for most Whirlpool made front-load machines, such as Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Amana etc. The "Sd" or "F2" is the same as F21 on most Whirlpool washer's and indicates the machine has detected too much soap or a obstruction in the drain process.

Chances are the pump itself is being obstructed by debris or some other foreign object as opposed to being faulty, although the faulty pump can`t be ruled out...yet.
**This is also the reason for a no spin & the "suds" message if applicable**

Here`s how to check it and clean it...

**Turn off the breaker at the service panel or unplug the washer from the wall socket...safety first**

1) locate the screws in front at the very bottom of the panel below the door and pull the panel down and forward until it is off. They will be either 1/4" hex head or #20 torx head screws.

2) You will immediately see the drain pump in front of you with a large removable filter. ( **see image below...this is were a wet-dry shop vac and towels come in handy, also the use of the removed panel as a catch pan is beneficial...but you may still get wet ) 3) Turn it counter-clockwise should allow you to remove it and inspect it and clean it out. Make a good thorough inspection inside the pump as well not just the removable filter.

4) Re-insert the filter and before placing the panel back run a test rinse/drain cycle to inspect for leaks and to verify the unit drains and spins now.

( If the problem still exist`s the Sd or "F2" or "F21" will re-appear. If so you`ll need to check the hose/rubber bellows from pump to tub...back-flow ball...for other obstructions ).

5) If all appears OK after your efforts, well your efforts paid off...pat yourself on the back. You just saved yourself potentially a couple hundred bucks !

Now You should be good to go. Re-attach the lower panel and you`re back in business.

**NOTE: if this still fails to remedy the Sd, F2, F21 or if it returns immediately during the next drain you may require a pump unfortunately...part # 280187 available at "searspartsdirect.com" "repairclinic.com" etc.

**This however can also be caused by the back-flow ball inside the bellows which connects the tub to the pump. There is a large clamp which secures it to the tub, but if you remove it to clean out all the dirt built up inside, make sure you get it good and secure when putting it back.**
Let me know how it goes and if you require further assistance. Thanks for choosing FixYa. Please take a moment to rate the solution provided for you here today. Good luck

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine or fault code BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

YES!

How's that for one of the shortest answers!

Cheers,

John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

No guarantee but this sounds very much like the belt is slipping ;-0)
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!

Hope this is your problem solved.
Good luck,
John C

Wash it off with a strong bleach solution. Be sure to wear gloves while you attack this problem.

From the service manual
I'm thinking because it is powered down the control can't tell the door to unlock.

Will Not Start

• Plug cord into live electrical outlet. Check for

proper voltage.

• Check fuse or reset circuit breaker.

• Push any key to turn on the clothes washer.

Push the rotary selector knob to start the

washer.

• Close door and push the rotary selector knob

to start the clothes washer.

• Check to see if the washer is in a pause or

soak period in the cycle. Wait briefly for

machine to start. (If washer is in suds period,

"SUDs" will display instead of remaining time.

• Check for restricted drain system. During an

electrical drain problem, "nd" error will occur

after 15 minutes.

• Check water supply is working.

• Check water valve connections are good.

• Check the line filter and water valve filter.

• Check the machine control board terminal

connections CN5, CN6 for good connections.
• Replace console control board.

Will Not Unlock

• Push door closed to make sure nothing from

inside is pressing against it, which may keep it

from unlocking.

• Door locked from water level too high.

Opening door will result in water draining from

door opening.

• Check for water remaining in the tub. Check

the temperature inside the drum is higher

than 50°C/122°F. If water is present inside

drum, refer to "Will not drain", If there is no

problem with temperature, check wiring of

Main Control Board and Door Lock Switch.

• Drain manually by removing drain hose

clamp.

• Display shows LO. Press power Off Key to

turn off the washer and unplug and reconnect
washer. Press any key to turn on the washer

With most machines the back case comes off and its simple to do /Belt slips over the pulley then onto the motor Shaft, with some machines you may have to loosen the motor to adjust belt tension, making sure belt will not slips or be too tight which could result in bearing stress..Good luck

Hi, Make sure it is plugged in properly, and let the cycle finish correctly. Try advancing the cycle control knob ( if it has one). I need a bit more info...

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but I do not know your particular machine BUT I would suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters. The motor is unable to drain all of the water in the allotted time.
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is normally behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!) and held in by a round cover/knob.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT!

It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. If it doesn't work then the motor is malfunctioning!

Hope the filter is the problem and good luck!
John C

Hi, the smell of rotten eggs normally means you have some water that has been sitting arround awhile and has gone bad. You may have to unplug your machine and remove the front cover to take a look arround the inside of your machine to see if any water has leaked out and has puddled up. You may also have something caught in the drain pump's filter, which may have gone rotten from sitting around too long. This filter is easy to unscrew and gain access to once you have the front cover off. Make sure you have lots of towels or a wet vac handy when you unscrew the filter cover.