20 Most Recent
Amana 16.8 cu. ft. / 476 liter Upright Freezer Deepfreeze AFU1705B - Page 4 Questions & Answers
Every few months the defrost hole at rear near
Good day,
If it goes 2 months, it's not broken, it's an engineering problem.
As the machines got newer, the engineers in an attempt to make the machine more energy efficient started to reduce the wattage of the defrost heater, and decrease the temperature the heater operates at. The problem today is chronic.
Here is a solution i use with good success.
Behind the the rear panel in the freezer compartment is a cooling coil, The heater is mounted to the bottom, and the thermostat is located on the top of the coil.
I remove the thermostat and replace it with one rated at 5 degrees higher.
You won't find it at Amana.
I use the GE thermostats. If the original is 50 degrees, I replace it with a 55 degree model. If it had a 55 degree model, I replace it with a 60 degree model.
The GE kit model numbers are WR50X45 to WR50X60, the last 2 numbers are the temperature. These kits are usually avalable at most appliance parts houses.
You'll need an appliance tech who is willing to make the change, not someone who only knows how to work by the numbers.
As well, I recommend the machine be completely defrosted to melt any unseen ice buildup behind the metal holding the coil and forming the drain area. IMPORTANT.
Below is a link to defrost system styles and components. Good reading.
http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml
P.S. I covered only the simplest of solutions. A longer duration timer, to allow for better drainage, and aux. heaters for the drain can be added as well.
Amana freezer has run well for 40yrs. Had weather
Hi,
What often happens in an outage like that is you get a rapid on/off cycle about three times or so... This puts extra stress on the compressor because the pressures do not have time to equalize before the compressor tries ot restart. Considering th age of your compressor either that or a low voltage situation was the final straw for your compressor and it died...
The best you can do at this point would be to allow the compressor to completely cool, as in unplug it for 12 or more hours, then try to plug it back in to restart it, it sometimes works...
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
Thanks for using Fixya!!
Heatman101
Freezer fine, refrigerator not very cool???
Auto defrost system failed. The defrost system is made up of 3 parts. The main heater, a calrod unit similar to the bake unit in an electric range and is mounted to the evaporator coil located behind the rear panel of the freezer panel. The defrost thermostat ( often called a limiter ) which is located in the same compartment as the main heater and is a small disc type tstat clipped on or near the top of the evaporator, and lastly, the timer , which may be either the standard mechanical timer or a solid state device.
You need a decent knowledge of electrical and a working knowledge on the use of a VOM meter. If not, you can remove the components and take them to an appliance parts house to be tested.
Nine out of ten times it's the limiter, which is also the cheapest part. But I cannot confirm that. The second most common part to fail on your unit is the timer. Heaters rarely fail, but......
Amana 20 - 20 years old. Freezer thawing -
IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE DEFINITE ISSUE WITH YOUR COMPRESSOR, IT MAY BE CONSTANTLY RUNNING OR RUNNING TOO OFTEN, THIS WOULD CAUSE THE LARGE AMOUNT OF HEAT COMING FORM THE BOTTOM. IF YOUR COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING TOO MUCH YOU WILL ALSO GET AN EXCESS AMOUNT OF WATER EVAPORATING DUE TO CONDENSATION ON THE EVAPORATOR COILS THEREFORE FILLING UP YOUR DRAIN PAN THAT MUCH QUICKER. YOUR FRIDGES COMPRESSOR MAY BE ON THE WAY OUT BUT YOUR FRIDGE SOUNDS LIKE IT'S WORKING THE WAY IT SHOULD BE.HOPE THIS HELPS
THANKS
Freezer is getting to about o degrees but
Check your lower air shutter that lets cold air move from the freezer to the refrigerator's. You may have something blocking the air flow, food, plastic, etc... There should be a dial that opens, and closes the door.
Does not cool and compressor relay keeps
When there's not continuity across the overload is because the compresor overheated , it could be the relay or the compressor that is burned out or stuck .I would let the compresor coold down for a few hours (unplugging the unit) and replace the relay (no more than $20) and if still having problems the compressor needs to be replaced.
My hotpoint under counter freezer isn't freezing properly
A freezer has a very simple operating design and there are only 2 customer serviceable components.
1. Make sure the cold control is set at the proper level.
2. Make sure that the door seal is making good contact with the cabinet. You can apply a thin coat of Vaseline to the door seal to help tight closure of the door.
Keep the door opening to a minimum during extreme heat conditions. Any small air leak can drastically reduce the operating norms during extreme heat conditions.
That's about all that you can do to regain control, the rest will have to be performed by a refrigeration tech. if you are still dissatisfied.
Not finding what you are looking for?