20 Most Recent Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15 - Page 6 Questions & Answers

You will need to replace the lock assembly.

Hello there and welcome to fixya i need to ask a few questions have you made sure that you have good water pressure to the machine first then if so make sure you have inspected the screen going into the machine if this is clean you may have either a faulty inlet valve or a faulty solinod switch There are two wires connected to each solenoid (aka coil) on the water inlet valve. Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip-on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire itself). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.

Use a continuity tester or multitester to test for continuity. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. A reading of infinity indicates a bad solenoid that must be replaced. Different brands and models will have various measurements, but the valve should show some resistance if it is functioning properly. Test the second one in the same way as the first. If the solenoid is working properly, but water leaks through the valve even when the washer is off, then the valve itself is the problem. Debris may be preventing the valve from closing. If the valve cannot be cleaned, it will have to be replaced. The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve. Click here to order replacement parts.

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Sounds like the lid lock has gone bad. Check the wire connections to it and if you should need to order the lock, here is their website.

http://genuineapplianceparts.net/techhelp/

Do you mean Black, really black marks? Perhaps dark brown.

Some marks comes from moldy seals, other marks comes from leaking gears from the machine. Examine the marks, check if those marks are oily or not.

see this causes and fix it.God bless you Lid Switch This is the most common reason for the washer not spinning or agitating. This is easy to check. You will need to remove the switch, this varies with model type but the testing will be the same. When the lid is closed the switch should have continuity when the lid is opend the switch should have no continuity. If it differs replace the Lid Switch. Timer To check the timer you will need to refer to the wiring diagram or disassemble to access the motor. Check the leads from the timer to the motor when turned to a wash cycle this should have 120 volts. If not replace the Timer, if it does the timer is not the problem. Motor To check the motor you will need to disassemble the washer to access the motor. First you can check the motor windings, to do this remove the plug and connect ohmeter to terminals. Refer to the tech sheet or service manual for the proper reading. Check motor for shorts by connecting ohmeter to terminals and motor housing should have no continuity. Connect voltmeter to motor wire connector and check for voltage. You should have 120 volts, if you do and the motor does not run replace the motor. If it does not have power the problem is elsewhere. Belt If your washer is a belt drive type make sure the belt is tight. Check for black soot from belt wear. Replace if it has excessive wear or broke. Motor Coupler This is a fairly common problem with direct drive machines but inexpensive and easy to replace. The Motor Coupler transfers power from the motor to the transmission. The following video will walk you through the replacement of the Motor Coupler. Transmission The transmission does not usually fail. To check this on a direct drive remove the motor and then turn tub inside. If it spins freely with no noise the problem is elsewhere. If it is noisy it needs replacing this is expensive and depending on the age of your machine you may not want to replace it. On a belt drive remove the belts and spin tub.

My F & P Model GWL15 did the same thing. I purchased a new pump but that was not the problem. Tip the machine back and look under. There is a valve diverter that I removed and checked. There was a dime and lots of lint stuck in the valve so it wouldn't move back and forth anymore. I downloaded a parts manual, page 10 and item # 23 is the valve diverter. Once I unclogged it and put it back together, it worked great. I noticed it works better than it has for a long time. I'm a 60 yr old woman so anyone can do this. Good luck.

It is a common fault that the drain fails to work in most machines in a period of time and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged. Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced. If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.

Cleaning a pump: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKjKi50YBpI&NR=1&feature=fvwp

Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.

Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips: http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

It is so common that the washing machine can make terrible noise in many ways and is a common fault. In all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that machine is vibrating when it is running then the motor /drum suspension has to be inspected. Since these fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for the noise with a good inspection lamp. Manually turn the motor and drum and listen for the noise, if so the motor bearings, the drum agitator shaft and fittings must be checked. Also the suspensions which include the shock absorbers and springs, the body clamps must be checked to be in correct alignment and not changed in position. Tightening of the mounting is also very important. Finally in most cases a drop of OIL or smear of grease on the moving parts cane solve most issues.

Check this link :

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1210/wobbly-washing-machine-or-tumble-dryer.html

For replacement of bearings check for tips on this visual link: Replacement of bearings

follow the instruction manual, if you do not have go and download for free. www.fitness.manualsonline.com or www.retrevo.comGod bless you

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Sorry but with such a fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what is wrong with your washer.
It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB, water inlet control valves, door solenoid,main motor, drain motor.
I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Machine should reset when it has regained "balance". It is possible the the OOB switch lever is stuck on the tub ( it is under the top in the right corner and hangs parallel to the tub ). Move tub around and reset load. Sometimes the OOB switch get corroded or breaks and needs to be replaced in order to clear the fault. Call F/P.

1) A washing machine won't spin if the water can't drain. Check hoses for any kinks or clogs that may prevent the water from draining. If a hose has kinks, try to straighten out the kinked hose. If it can't be straighten sufficiently, replace the hose. If hoses are not kinked, check for clogged hoses. This can be done by using the screwdrivers to remove the hoses and looking for clogs or running a water hose through the clogged hose to remove the clog. Use the rags and bucket to clean up the water that comes out of the hoses when they are disconnected. Once the clog is cleared, put the drain hose back into place. The washer should drain and spin now if a clogged or kinked hose was the problem.2) If the washer still won't drain or spin, check to see if the lid is not closing all the way or if the lid switch is not clicking into place. Close the lid and make sure that it closes all the way down. When the lid closes, the lid switch should click. If there is no clicking sound, then the switch may need to be replaced. Follow manufacturer's directions for replacing the switch. If the lid does not close all the way, visually check for signs that the lid is bent. If bent, try to bend it back into place.3) Loose or broken belts could also prevent a washing machine from draining or spinning. Pull the washer away from the wall and, using the screwdrivers and wrenches, remove the back panel. Using the flashlight, visually check for any broken or loose belts. Replace any broken or loose belts. Although replacing washing machine belts is difficult, anyone who has replaced belts on a car, lawn mower or even a bicycle chain should be able to accomplish the task.4) Another possibility for a washing machine to not spin or drain is the pump. With the back panel still off the washer, check the pump with the voltmeter to ensure that the pump is getting power. If the washer is getting power, turn on the washer and listen to find out if the pump is running but the water is still not draining. It may be necessary to remove the pump and clean it or to replace the pump with a new one. Once the pump is replaced, turn on the washer to determine if it will now drain and spin.5) If all of the above steps fail to produce a washing machine that drains or spins, then it is time to call a professional repairman. Use the screwdrivers and wrenches to replace the panel on the washer and push it back against the wall.performance chips for BMW

CHECK THE BELT ,,MAY BE BROKEN .

Generally this problem happens when the drain pump starts to leak under the washing maching. A Fisher Paykel has a main control board under the touch panel that has direct wires running from it to the drain pump. When the drain pump leaks it shorts out the wire connecting it to the control board and blow out the main control. Look under washer and look for the drain pump (Drain pump looks like a fan from the underside.) You will most likely see residue from where the water has been leaking, built up on the pump. If all of the above is true on your machine, replace the pump and control board. Fisher Paykel includes an inline fuse to keep this from happening again.

Clogged pump stopped up drain. If the washer does not think all water was pumped out in 8 minutes then it shuts down. Slow drain is my first inclination.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

I would say it is far more likely that the hairpin either got in by accident with something YOU put in the machine. It does not take long for such an item to find its way to the pump and jam it.One could also question as to whether the repairman just told you he found the hairpin to validate having to do the repair he needed to do. Unless you personally saw the pump opened and the pin taken from it.......?Surely the important thing is that it is now fixed and operational.........no point in "crying over spilt milk" as they say..........