20 Most Recent Fisher Paykel EcoSmart GWL15 - Page 9 Questions & Answers


Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Check that the washer supply is OK using another item - a kettle for instance. If it's not check your breakers/fuses. Reset/replace if necessary and if the same thing happens ( or if there was nothing wrong with the breakers/fuses in the first place) sorry but with such a fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what could be wrong with your washer. It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB.

I fear that your only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 22, 2011


tilt the machine to get to the bottom and there is an electric pump that you can remove with no tools, you twist if out. after that is removed you should see what has clogged your pump.. I spent 4 hours disassembling my entire machine , cleaning it, trying to find out what was wrong. And the fix could of just taken me 1 minute.. Next time... But at least I know how to take everything apart now, very easy and simple machine to work on.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 20, 2011


Possible there is dirt in the drain which seems to clog on the drain pump /valve and so when the drain cycle is activated the pressure makes the noise on the pump.
Check for tips to remove the Pump;

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/washing-machines/a/7/1373/how-to-replace-the-pump-on-a-washing-machine-.html

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 19, 2011


Hi - I have never come across a code 24 but in hind sight all codes from 17 - 32 are comm related errors ranging from one form or another and often due to mismatched components - noted as you have exchanged the controller module - these do look similar but the important code is the product number found on the sticker at rear of the machine - they represent the parts inserted into a particular range although it may say IWL15 or GWL12 but do have identical components under the hood if can follow me on this.

Sorry cannot be more useful - without actually seeing the machine i cannot be 100% certain as what is actually causing the error.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 15, 2011


The symptom presented here indicates a draining problem. The machine will not advance to the rinse or spin cycle unless the wash water or rinse water, respectively, is drained first.

The Wash Progress LEDs are also designed to flash a code when a problem occurs. These LEDs serves as digits for an 8-digit binary number being 1 for on and 0 for off. Indicate which among the LEDs to determine the code and the necessary actions to be undertaken.

jahn27_383.jpg

The problem is indeed in the draining if you get fault code 37. Either the drain hose is clogged or kinked, the diverter valve has failed, or the pump itself is restricted or not working at all. Check to make sure that the drain hose is clear then disconnect power and lay the machine on its front on a cushioned surface to access the drain pump and the diverter valve. Remove the pump's inlet and outlet hoses then check and clear them from any debris that may prevent water from draining out. Check the impeller for any damage or restriction. Make sure the impeller is not frozen or blocked.

Also check the diverter valve for the same condition as the pump described above. The diverter valve is where the drain pump and the recirculation pump inlet hoses are attached from. Make sure the diveter valve is in the drain position while the drain pump is working. Replace the drain pump and/or the diverter valve if deemed necessary.


You don't have to accept or reject this post in order to add comment or information. But accepting the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 12, 2011


Hi - it would seem the washer pump may actually be blocked for some reason... If you had followed the method as per the diagnostics then if you reckon you got 35 then its a communications error beween the console & display. Furthermore you would be able to mannually start the pump in diagnostic mode to see if its working fine.. But under normal cond..... the machine would come up with a pump error & code 37 - so perhaps it is ok.

Remedy - check the harness wire connections between the display & the controller unit is good - clean - otherwise replace the display unit to correct.

On the error codes - there is a Code 35 - just that its not available to the public - it was only ever issued on a DVD sent to the service agents - have never actually seen it on the secure service site.

See how you go....

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 11, 2011


Hey again. I wasn't for sure if you saw my last post but I wrote you a detailed post on what to check on your other post. Check your water pump inside the washer. Make sure it is working and make sure it is not all clogged up. Check your drain hoses also. Try unplugging the washer and plugging it back up also. This will reset it. Try changing the selections a few times (the timer) to see if this will help as well. Best wishes.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 10, 2011


It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 09, 2011


hi - thats not looking good for you my friend - assuming that there is power to the outlet. The first thing would be to replace the motor controller module. this unit supplies juice to everything else...

cheers

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 03, 2011


Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Bad odours could be coming from a couple of places.
  1. the fact that there is 'foul' water being left in the drum or
  2. the plumbing u-bend.
I would suggest checking the plumbing u-bend for trouble first, then following the notes on checking and cleaning the drain filter and the drain pump to ensure there is nothing 'obnoxious' hanging around the two of them!
You could also run the contents of a proprietary washer cleaner/ de-scaler through the system- if only to clean the heater element.

Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 01, 2011


Afraid ypou have to purchase a controller module to start with - it has failed completely...

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 01, 2011


Hi - its possible that the drain pump is either blocked or over heating - it really needs to be looked at - I think the GWL15 is acessable from inside - remove agitator screw in the middle of agitator - on the right side locate the housing cover (plastic with a scew in the middle - remove screw and see if theres blockages - hope this the problem otherwise replace the pump unit.

cheers

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jul 01, 2011


Hi - Im unsure what would have caused this problem - try this though as I think the pump may actually be glogged.

Advance the machine to spin and see if the pump would operate? - if it doesn't the you need to sccoop the water out and clear out the pump..

I will come back to check if you have sorted this out a little later..

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 30, 2011


hi - these machines wioll require sufficient pressure to operate - but low pressure to a certain degree should be fine - takes longer to fill..

Suggest you double check the hoses to the right valve hot/cold etc - usually there is a filter on the hose and one on the inlet valve, hopefully its not blocked.

I cannot see any other component that would be faulty - as you say its brand new...

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 24, 2011


I found that my squeal was coming from the little rubber boot that seals the pump from the impeller.



I silenced the squeal as follows...



Give it a try. It might work for you, too. It takes about 30 minutes.

  1. Unplug the washer.
  2. Pull it away from the wall a foot or two.
  3. Tip the washer back toward the wall.
  4. Have a strong, reliable helper hold the washer in that position -- firmly against the wall.
  5. Get down on the floor. Lie on your back and put your head and arm under the washer (that's why you need a good helper!).
  6. Unplug the electrical wiring to the pump. (The GWL11 has 2 wiring connectors.)
  7. Slide a shallow plastic dishpan under the pump to catch any water.
  8. Find and bend back slightly (don't break it!) the plastic retaining latch that holds the pump in place.
  9. Rotate the pump counter-clockwise about 60 degrees, until it comes free.
  10. Note the angle/position of the pump as you pull it free. This is the same angle/position you'll need when you put it back in, of course.
  11. Get out from under the washer -- with the pump, of course.
  12. Have your helper lower the washer to the floor.
  13. Have your helper clean up any excess water that runs onto the floor.
  14. Put the pump on a well-lit table or other surface covered with newspaper.
  15. Using a straight blade screwdriver, pry directly underneath the plastic fan (right up against the shaft) to carefully and slowly work it off. Don't lose the small plastic fan bushing!! - which is actually what you are prying against. Also, as you remove the fan and bushing from the shaft, note carefully how the bushing fits on the shaft. There is a right way and a wrong way to put it back!
  16. Now, you are ready to remove the motor/shaft/impeller assembly from the bearings/windings assembly. But first!! Find on the white plastic impeller frame the locking tab that was engaged with the latch in step 8 above - and put a piece of tape on the black bearing/windings assembly to mark the tab's position for reassembly.
  17. Using a 7mm socket (or end) wrench, remove the 2 bolts holding the impeller/shaft assembly to the bearings/windings assembly.
  18. Carefully pull the impeller/shaft assembly from the bearings/windings.
  19. Spray the bearings with a high-quality silicone lubricant. Buy a small can. It is worth it. Do not use WD-40 or 3-in-1 Oil!
  20. Using toothpicks, Q-tips, and paper towels, clean any dust, dirt, and hair from the bearings.
  21. Spray the impeller shaft and rubber boot inside the white plastic framework with silicone lubricant.
  22. Using toothpicks and bits of paper towel, clean the shaft around the boot. Move the shaft back and forth a few millimeters to compact the dusty, hairy crud - so you can spear it with a toothpick and pull it away. Using a toothpick, stuff a shred of paper towel inside the white plastic framework and rotate the shaft. Remove the dirty paper towel shred. Spray more silicone onto shaft and boot. Repeat this cleaning process until paper towel comes out clean. It is a little like building a ship in a bottle - but quite doable.
  23. Once everything is clean as a whistle, put a spritz of silicone lubricant in each sleeve bearing and on the impeller shaft near the rubber boot.
  24. Re-assemble everything in the reverse order starting with step 18 above.
  25. Test out your fix with your helper and...
  26. If no squeal, bask in the glow of gratitude and self-confidence!
  27. If it still squeals, order a new pump.

BTW - Cleaning all dust out from under the washer a couple times a year should help prevent pump squealing in the future.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 22, 2011


The leak could be from:
  • the pump
  • one of the hoses that attaches to the pump system

It is likely to be the pump. However, to verify where the leak is coming from do the following:
  1. Make sure the washer is empty of excess water. (Run the Spin cycle, if not sure.)
  2. Unplug the washer.
  3. Turn off the hot and cold water supply taps.
  4. Disconnect the hot and cold water supply lines.
  5. Pull the washer away from the wall a couple feet.
  6. Have a helper tip the washer back toward the wall and hold it up securely for you!
  7. Get down on the floor with a flashlight and look up underneath the washer for the pump. It will have a small fan blade as well as wiring and water tubing going to it.
  8. If you see signs of rust or water drops on the pump, the pump impeller shaft seal is probably leaking. Order a new pump and install it. It takes no tools and about 20 minutes as follows...

  1. Get a roll of paper towels.
  2. Make sure the washer is empty as above.
  3. Unplug the washer.
  4. Turn off hot and cold taps.
  5. Disconnect hot and cold supply lines.
  6. Pull washer away from the wall a foot or two.
  7. Tip the washer back toward the wall.
  8. Have a strong, reliable helper hold the washer in that position -- firmly against the wall.
  9. Get down on the floor. Lie on your back and put your head and arm under the washer (that's why you need a good helper!).
  10. Unplug the electrical wiring to the pump. (The GWL11 has 2 wiring connectors.)
  11. Slide a shallow plastic dishpan under the pump to catch any water.
  12. Find and bend back slightly (don't break it!) the plastic retaining latch that holds the pump in place.
  13. Rotate the pump counter-clockwise about 60 degrees, until it comes free.
  14. Note the angle/position of the pump as you pull it free. This is the same angle/position you'll use when you put in the new one.
  15. Have your helper clean up any excess water that ran onto the floor.
  16. Install the new pump.
  17. Have your helper lower the washer to the floor.
  18. Reconnect the washer to the hot and cold water supplies.
  19. Open the hot and cold taps.
  20. Plug in the washer.
  21. Test the washer with no clothes in it.
BTW - Cleaning all dust out from under the washer a couple times a year should help prevent pump squealing and leaking in the future.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 22, 2011


HI - THE WASHER WILL BE OK WITH COLD WASH ONLY, NOTE WHEN YOU TURN THE MACHINE ON THE WATER SECTION WOULD HAVE THREE LEDS - COLD ON BOTTOM - WARM - MID & HOT - TOP MOST.

WOULD THIS BE THE CASE? IF IT BE - THEN SELECT COLD ONLY & SHOULD WORK FINE - THERE IS A WAY TO CHANGE THE DEFAULT TO COLD WASH ONLY BUT WE NEED TO SEE IF IT WORKS FIRST BEFORE WE GO THER - IF THATS OK WITH YOU.

THE OTHER THING IS WHEN THE MACHINE STOPS THERE SHOULD BE SOME BEEPING FROM THE MACHINE - NOTE THEM IN ORDER FROM LEFT TO RIGHT WHICH HAS THE ONLY RED LED, WHERE THERES A LIGHT PUT 1 TYO REPRESENT IT - NO LIGHT PUT A 0, POST IT & I WILL SEE WHAT I CAN DO FOR YOU.

FYI - THE LED COLOURS - ARE GGGGGOOR WHEN ON...

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 21, 2011


Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Sorry if this is a silly question but have you checked the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter? So many (intermittent) 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside. Has to be worth doing.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT.
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 19, 2011


Hi mate - this is a bit awkward - one need to remove the top of the machineto see how it fits. There are 4 sets on each corner to suspend the bowl, normally to gain access - reome the scews under the rubber (white) when the lids lifted in the front, furthermore theres a snaplock arrangement afixing the top to the rear, you do not have to disconnect any wires if ones careful and you will see the way its setup...

Good luck

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 17, 2011


Code 1 - usually means on the later models of Fisher & Paykel is a faulty Motor Control Module, often though one would have to replace both as well as the display module.

Anyway - it sounds like the electronics are overheating hence the intermittent problems you are experiencing.

Fisher Paykel... | Answered on Jun 16, 2011

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