20 Most Recent Fisher Paykel Eco IWL16 - Page 2 Questions & Answers

go to appliancerepairplanet.vstore.ca and u can get one there

Hi,
With this washer you could have any number of issues...
The hot water solenoid valve or the hot water side of the mixing valve could have gone bad...
The thermistor that senses water temperature could be bad and telling the control that the water is hotter then it is...
also the control could be bad and be misreading the temperature or just plain telling the mixing valve to do the wrong things...
To troubleshoot this you will need to have a good electric tester... the check the thermistor and also check for power to the mixing valve.
then carefully eliminate possibilities till you narrow it all down...
to find the exact problem...

heatman101

Hi just read your posting.The error code you have indicated is called RECIRCULATION FAULT.This means that when your machine is on the recirculation mode it is losing water.Please look under the machine for me to confirm which pump style you have in your model of machine.If you see a black fan to the front right you have the older style.Please reply and let me know if you have the older pump or newer pump.If you have the new style of pump then you will not have the black fan.This information will help me guide you in rectifying this fault.Looking forward to your reply.

just no power at all. no lights


suruj

Hi just read your posting.Now try this,After the cycle is finished 1st turn off the cold tap then leave for 1 hour.Then see if the leak has stopped.If it has not stopped then turn the hot tap off and leave for 1 hour.Then see if the leak has stopped.Whichever tap you turned off and the leak stopped that is the water valve which is faulty.Please try this test and reply back which tap you turned off to stop the leak.

Ok you need to replace them then.

Water spurting is not uncommon and can mean a cold inlet valve is faulty, however if you've filled the machine independently, with the water level set to 'low', and it won't work it could be the out of balance switch. This is situated below the motor control board. It's an awkward job for a user, but not for an experienced tech...Not an expensive fix....Good luck....Nomess

hi,

your going to have to study it. put the machine on its side and look for access panels or a whole plate to remove on the bottom or rear. take the panels off and study it while its running, maybe put the machine up on blocks, careful of moving parts of course.
hopefully it may just be an adjustment with a clamp. also the agititator seal inside the machine may have be bad, pop the cap off the agitator, remove the bolt and pull it straight up and out and study the seal area, might be leaking right down the middle too.

good luck

J

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Usually water not draining at all is due to the drain line that is clogged and/or because of kinked drain hoses that’s attached to the Drain Pump. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. If you think that this isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools—then you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with the pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

You appear to have a failing water pump. Have a technician examine the pump for excessive wear or damage.

Unplug the machine have someone tilt the machine back and look under the machine for a little fan on a motor give it a turn to see if it spins it might just be sticky or it may need replacing.

Make sure that the outlet of the drain hose is higher than the water level in the washer or it will siphon-out over time. Hope this helps!

The solenoid on one of the fill valves, in the washer, is probably stuck open. Only fix is to have it replaced.

This is a sign of a faulty drain pump impeller. the drive shaft that is connected to the impeller is stripping the impeller. you will eventually need to replace the entire pump soon.

its possible to do that but you are then meddling with a critical safety component and may expose your self to dangerous microwave levels

On the morning of Monday 23/6/08, I have decided to measure the effected components on the control (power) board.
The control or power board is the one that supply the DC power to the DC motor which runs the tumbler of the machine.

I could see black marks around 3 leg component which is clamped against the cooling pipe on the board.
I decided to enter the component number the one printed on it in the internet Go ogle site.
The description of the 3 leg component was TOP224Y and is a switch and inspecting it reveals its casing was blowen and one of the leg was separated.
I decided to buy a new TOP224Y and there was only TOP224YN available no more TOP224Y.
The price is $10 something.
With a solder ****** I was able to dismount TOP224Y from the control board,
and when I will receive the new TOP224YN I will replace it.
In the same time I noticed a big diode next to TOP224Y was also overheated and cracked and a small glass diode was also cracked and need replacement. The transformer next to the TOP224Y is called fly transformer I had measured it with an ohm meter, it reads very low nearly zero ohm.
I will receive the new component TOP224YN tomorrow 24/6.

There has to be some access somewhere, behind?. Find it out, the problem is with your pump, unplug washer from the electric mains. Drain out your water by lowering the exit hose into bucket or ground drain, dismantle your pump to see what is clogging it. Before that see that the connections to the pump are tight; pull out and refit, it might sort out the problem. Or you have to change the pump. You can do all these yourself. Only note careful as to what came out how & how to refit.

Sites for spares:
RepairClinic.com
espares.co.uk
AppliancePartsPros.com

At what height is your exit hose. It should be approximately 3 feet up from the ground and then into the drain. This is rule one for all washers, it cannot be at floor level - your water will just flow out.

The micro switch or the lever that activates it seems to have been the cause of the Error Code 43. Have re-seated the switch in its holder and ensured the activating (out of balance) lever is moving freely. The switch appears to be OK and now it is all re-assembled, the Error Code 43 is gone. Machine is operating normally again.

Out of Balance Switch was located below the right hand side of the computer board (module).

Rgdz John T

The first thing to do is to check if the water valve is good - probably burnt /stuck open.

regards