Top 20
Fisher Paykel Eco IWL16 Questions & Answers
Have replaced the drain pump and diverter valve.
for safety purposes, all repairs should be performed by an authorized service technician. first, perform systems check in order to diagnose any problems. the tech sheet is usually located under the control panel.there may be an obstruction in the recirculation system. coins small objects may have blocked the recirculation. beware coins can work as a valve if it is in the right place. remove the basket to ensure that the pump bellows is cleaned and clear. if the pump has been leaking then the pump and electronic control need to be replaced as a pair. once replaced the control need to get programmed for the specific model.
All lights flash display reads "power out self reset in 10 seconds".
Display reads power cut restart in 10 seconds
The motor controller board has a switch mode power supply problem.
Best to get a new motor controller board Or a technician to look at it.
Look at the 6 digit part number under the bar code to get the right part for your machine.
IWL16 leaks from the top during spin cycle, black specs on clothes
Try running running it MT on smaller load setting a few time,s then do a smaller then you had been doing load of close. I belive yr getting or have got.water.past the.shaft seal,s. So maybe wth smaller load.inclueding.water setting you may see some change i.e. no more black speacks. Sorry.about my spelling. Am.still new
Machine will not power on.
If the display lights do not come on at all then more than likely the Motor Control Board is dead, a replacement can be expensive so if your machine is over 5 years old think about replacing it. Remember you get 2 years warrany on all F&P machines. Most importantly make sure you are getting power to the machine by trying something else is the power outlet like a hair dryer.
Fisher & Paykel IWL 16 shuts off during all cycles.
I says power cut restarting in 10 seconds
I'm sorry, it is the board, the switch mode power supply is dying.
Every time it starts to do something it power cuts.
Best to get a new motor controller board,
Quote the 6 digit part number under the bar code to get the right part.
I w 812
Here are some details for fault code 37
37.
(00100101) Pump Blocked Error (No change in the water level)
While draining, the water level reading from the pressure sensor has not changed for over 3 minutes. There are three likely reasons for this fault. One is that the drain hose or the pressure switch hose has been squashed or kinked and the pump out rate has been dramatically reduced. The second possibility is that the pump is partially or fully blocked. The third is that the pump is not operating due to Motor Control Module, wiring or pump failure. This fault could also appear if the machine is pumping to an unusually high head of drain hose or into an extended length of drain hose. The fourth possibility is a diverter valve fault or blockage, water level is not altering as the diverter is stuck in the recirculation mode, giving the module the appearance the pump is not lowering the water level.
Primary Source:
Action:1)
Pump System.
Check that the drain hose has not been kinked.
2) Check the length of the drain hose and try to reduce the length if
excessively long. A 39.36in / 1 metre extension hose of the same diameter fitted to the existing drain hose is the maximum allowable length.
3) Check for open circuit windings in the pump. (Note: Pumps are
fitted with a thermal cut-out, which will reset on cooling.)
4) If the basket is empty of water, remove the pump from the pump
housing and check that it is not blocked. Also check the drain hose is not blocked.
5) If the basket contains water, then service the pump from the top of
the machine by removing the top deck and inner basket. Bail out the water, remove the pump cap and hood and clear the restriction.
Secondary Source: Wiring.
Action:
Tertiary Source:
Action:
1) Check the pump harness is connected correctly to the pump. 2) Check continuity of the pump harness.
Motor Control Module module.
Activate the pump by operating the machine in spin mode. Check the pump is rotating. If it is not operating, and Primary and Secondary checks have been performed, then replace the Motor Control Module.
FISHER & Paykel 6.5 Smart Drive - No display lights
You need to get hold of a multi-meterand check the resistance of the pump, It should be 33ohms or close to it, the pump is part of the power circuit and the machine will appear dead if it has blown or is unplugged, If the machine was running without the earth wire to the pump connected and the pump had a fault/blockage there is a very good chance that it has blown the motor controller module. It requires the earth to provide a fault path to earth.
Washing machine comes up with code fault 51.
Hi just read your posting.The error code you have indicated is called RECIRCULATION FAULT.This means that when your machine is on the recirculation mode it is losing water.Please look under the machine for me to confirm which pump style you have in your model of machine.If you see a black fan to the front right you have the older style.Please reply and let me know if you have the older pump or newer pump.If you have the new style of pump then you will not have the black fan.This information will help me guide you in rectifying this fault.Looking forward to your reply.
Not getting hot water into
Hi,
With this washer you could have any number of issues...
The hot water solenoid valve or the hot water side of the mixing valve could have gone bad...
The thermistor that senses water temperature could be bad and telling the control that the water is hotter then it is...
also the control could be bad and be misreading the temperature or just plain telling the mixing valve to do the wrong things...
To troubleshoot this you will need to have a good electric tester... the check the thermistor and also check for power to the mixing valve.
then carefully eliminate possibilities till you narrow it all down...
to find the exact problem...
heatman101
'LD' on display and lid closing won't get the washer started
Hi just read your posting.Now I know you supplied the model number in your posting but could you please supply the name of the machine which should be written on the control panel.Is it an ENDURO or an ESPRIT --etc--?Please reply with additional information and I can help you rectify this problem.Looking forward to your reply.
Water drips fron the inlet nozzel after the cycle
Hi just read your posting.Now try this,After the cycle is finished 1st turn off the cold tap then leave for 1 hour.Then see if the leak has stopped.If it has not stopped then turn the hot tap off and leave for 1 hour.Then see if the leak has stopped.Whichever tap you turned off and the leak stopped that is the water valve which is faulty.Please try this test and reply back which tap you turned off to stop the leak.
My f & P excellence 7.5 has a recurring
Water spurting is not uncommon and can mean a cold inlet valve is faulty, however if you've filled the machine independently, with the water level set to 'low', and it won't work it could be the out of balance switch. This is situated below the motor control board. It's an awkward job for a user, but not for an experienced tech...Not an expensive fix....Good luck....Nomess
Fisher & Paykel Smart Drive 7.5 washing machine.
Unplug the machine have someone tilt the machine back and look under the machine for a little fan on a motor give it a turn to see if it spins it might just be sticky or it may need replacing.
Its not dranining during spin
Hi
Thanks
for using FixYa. Usually water not draining at all is due to the drain
line that is clogged and/or because of kinked drain hoses that’s attached to
the Drain Pump. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can
get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the
clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's
attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you
need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the
sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove
the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the
outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers try to grab and remove the clothing
through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below.
Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner
clothes tub. If you think that this isn't easy to do--and you may need special
tools—then you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician
to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with the pump.
Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If
so, you need to replace the pump. Please do accept the solution if the issue is
resolved or else revert for further assistance.
Thanks
Rylee
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