20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer Refrigerator with Adjusta Cube Ice Maker - Page 4 Questions & Answers

usually has wheels and ifu push down on the front they should come out, or try lifting up and they come out then u can roll it

Fridge not starting? MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ON THE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECK UR COLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION A BAD DEFROST TIMER CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER. to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor. Check with an OHMS meter for continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked for Microfares. To check ur compressor with multi meter: Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, somes located next to compressor in a casing. You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground. Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms. Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

Is a defrost required ! or has Temp control gone faulty . Needs checking by Technician

In the refrigeration side, there is a small round filter that you twist off by hand. Replace with the same filter and screw on by hand and do not make it too tight or it can be hard to remove later on.

see: http://www.fixya.com/support/t22822607-kenmore_elite_795_72053_112_er_code Several said unplug to reset "brain" I'd try that first, then the defrost solution. Or possibly a Hair dryer to melt enough of the ice around the stopped fan to allow it to work again.

ck the fan in freezer if it quits ( a very common problem ) then the fresh food area will get warmer . and tomorrow the freezer will start to fail . if not the fan ck for ice in back of freezer and if found you have a defrost problem also very common .. ****

defrost the freezer.

All defrost activity is managed by the unit's main control board. I don't believe there is a manual defrost switch.

did you get my answer?

Thanks, FixYa, for posting this problem. My husband and I were about to buy one of these and were able to save ourselves a headache. We found out some updated information obtained from Sam, a lead tech at the national Kenmore service center, 888-536-6673:

There are 4 potential manufacturers of this fridge type, only 1 of which made the faulty part, which was apparently finally recalled last month. You cannot tell the manufacturer by the brand name, only by the first 3 digits of your trio fridge's MODEL number (usually listed somewhere on the fridge as well as on the printed manual you received at the time of purchase):

795 -- LG Korea -- some fridges affected, determined by SERIAL number
596 -- Amana/Whirlpool -- not affected
464 -- Maytag -- not affected
106 -- Whirlpool -- not affected

If you have a model number beginning with 795, call Sam or his colleagues, reference the service flash sf46-515, and have them look up your fridge by serial number to determine whether your fridge contains the recalled part. Good luck to all of you, and thanks again!

There may be algae contamination of the system. Disconnect the water supply and run in a mixture of 2 tsp of Baking Soda (bicarbonate of soda) in 1 cup of water through the line, from tap connector to dispenser. Leave the solution sitting in the lines for 1/2 hour prior to flushing with clean water and removing any ice made with the solution. Bicarbonate of soda is great for destroying cell walls of plants and fungi (algae, mold etc) and removing smells. White vinegar is also hostile to algae, and doesn't leave a lingering smell, but bleach should be avoided, or used very sparingly, in systems used to supply water for consumption by people or pets.

the moter might have blown out

Unfortunately the ice makers do go bad for a number of reasons. Sometimes it is ice blockage, stripped gears or an electronics failure. They are not really repairable but they are fairly easily replaceable. If you are fairly handy you can buy the part from the manufacturer or a refrigerator parts supplier and replace it yourself. A typical complete replacement ice maker unit runs between $75 and $125 depending upon the type you have. Regards.

Always start by emptying the total refri and freezer until dry. check for settings for your freezer you may not see when full. If that checks out, plug it in. There is a little air fan underneath your refrig. It says cannot lubricate. Horse s**t. It it's stuck or making a noise, blow it out and spray a little WD-40. See if it's turning. Listen to hear the compressor kick in. Do what I said and you will be OK or find the problem.

Unplug and completely defrost it until dry.

A cup is eight (8) ounces.

check plastic tube that runs from rear of the freezer. See if it is pluged with ice. If you find it is change the fill valve at the back of freezer behind the compressor cover. It could be a double valve, as one part.

Thankyou,

Bonjour, dearest Sir/Madamme, it would be an honor to help you out, the bell is a door open and close alert system in the Elite. They are usually activated with time. On the hinges on the doors, there are sometimes tilt switches, the tell the circuit system when to alert, as soon as the door is open some count time, if the time is prolonged, and the switches are open, (that would mean the door is open as well). They activate. I would check the door hing, a swith could be open/closed depending on the format of operation.
Thankyou, :)