Dayton Electric Heater - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

L=Live in red 1=Live out white to element. N=Black in/out black element

Anyone figure out how to rewire this for the charmglow electric fireplace?

Try Grainger

dayton 2e440 heater Questions & Answers - Fixya

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... a Dayton Model 2YU40 electric heater Need manual for Dayton. ... looking for a replacement fan and fan motor for a Dayton model 2E454B electric wall heater.

Dayton rheostat fan motor Heaters Questions & Answers ...

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Dayton heaters rheostat fan motor related questions and answers. ... UP BUT FAN WONT KICK ON Could be one of several problems dependant on the model you have.... The motors are noisy in 2 Dayton 2e440 heaters. I ... I'm looking for a replacement fan and fan motor for a Dayton model 2E454B electric wall heater.

DAYTON Electric Wall Heater, Recessed or Surface ...

www.grainger.com/.../DAYTON-Electric-Wall-Heater-3...

W. W. GraingerShop DAYTON Electric Wall Heater, Recessed or Surface, Voltage 208/240, Watts ...Item # 3UG56; Mfr. Model # 3UG56; UNSPSC # 40101814; Catalog Page # 4277; Shipping Weight 20.65 lbs. ... Additional features include a built-in thermal cutout andfan delay switch for added safety ... Need Help Finding Repair Parts?

The fiberglass will not catch fire. There is a sfer barrier built into the wall heaters. When you install a wall heater you basically just cut the wall open and throw the unit in with the flue and gas and away you go. If you can to second guess take some of the insillation and take a match or a lighter and hold it in your hand and light the fiberglass, you will see that it wont burn even with direct flame on it. You are 100 percent safe

The wattage that precisely matches the heat loss of the given space at a given outdoor air temperature.

About 180-200 degrees F.

red, white, and black will be your high voltage. Green will probably be for ground and yellow and orange go to the thermostat. I can confirm on Monday when I have access to manuals.

Dayton Heaters are a product of Grianger Industrial Supply. The have locations all across the US & Mexico or you can find them online http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml

Hope this helps you find the replacement knob.

rewire to box 110 110 for fuse.

Go to grainger supply.com then go to dayton heaters with your model number and part number if you can find it,along with description of parts you need. I have been dealing with them for years and they are the main distributor for dayton furnaces.
They carry a large selection of parts and generally ship within two days. Hope this helps you. Thank you.

Sounds like a faulty fan switch. Typically, they come on when they get hot and turn back off when cooled off. Sounds like yours is just too sensitive.

This is a safety setting that trigger to CUT off to prevent the temperature to go beyond the set point or for a possible malfunction of the thermostat.
If the limiter does not work , it can result in bigger damage like burning off the heater or causing fire hazards.

power had to make a continuous path.a line voltage thermostat just acts as a switch.if its that mixed up try to find wireing diagram.

You need to contact a Graingers supply house. This is an in-house product manufactured for them. If you need a phone number just tell me what state you live in and closest city. Thanks

If it sounds like the fan is hitting something, It is likely you will have to get a step ladder, and look closely at what is making the noise-
Likely something fell in there-- and needs to be removed.

When you shut the thermostat down, does the fan stop instantly?

Mack B

I think your best bet is to go to Grainger.com. and go to repair parts for dayton furnaces with your model and serial number and part no. if possible. You can also call1-800-323-0620 and get location of dealer nearest to you.
I have dealt with them for many years and they have always treated me right.Not always the cheapest but I have been happy with the service and the expertise of their staff. I hope this helps you and have a good new year.
Thank you.

Ohm out the heaters sound like one heater has failed? There will be two wires going into the heater if you unplug it there and set a meter to ohms and place a lead on each terminal of the heater you see something from 5 to 15ohms. If it reads OL that heater is open and not working.

don't know about the heater to much but you can get range of t/stats and a majority can be wired into different types of heater firstly i'd get a sparky to come and see if he can wire a universal t/stat into your heater.

Hi,
Actually it is not quite that simple....

The N wire is the neutral or common and needs to be hooked to the white incoming power on the heater. You will probably have to run a new wire to this from the wire wire that feeds power into the heater...
The L in the line power that runs the t-stat and also provides power back to the heater....that needs to be hooked to the incoming "hot" to the heater. This probably gets hooked to the black wire that was hooked to the old t-stat...
The 1 is the switched power going back to the heater to provide the power to turn on the heater....this probably get hooked to the white wire that was on the old t-stat.

I hope you can follow all of this...I tried to make it as clear and simple as possible...

Nothing ever as easy as the manufacturers try to make you think that it is... :-)

heatman101

Hi,
Ohm out the element...make sure that is good...
also ohm out the thermostat to check that out...
basically just follow the power to see why it is not
making the element heat....

You can get parts from www.grainger.com

heatman101