20 Most Recent Fisher and Paykel Active Smart® E522BR Stainless Steel Bottom Freezer Refrigerator Questions & Answers

If the cabinet is warm inside it is a failed circulation fan, failed defrost causing the evaporator to freeze up, or it needs a refrigerant gas top up. Beeping is just an alarm. It may be because of the more serious issues listed above but can also be caused by a failing door gasket, the door being left ajar (kids are famous for this) or the door has been left open too long deciding what to have for dinner. I hope that answers all 8 of you :>D Help here https://www.google.com/search?q=fisher+and+paykel+fridge+beeping+with+door+shut ..

My fridge (E440T but I believe the E522B is similar) had a broken fan wire and i had to pull off the rear panel and re-solder a wire. I created a document for others to follow that shows the rear panel removal if interested at http://www.accentis.com.au/downloads/misc/How I fixed my Fisher and Paykel Fridge Active Smart Fridge.pdf

Thanks to all postings on this site - it really helped a lot.

First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

press the select button ( the button that you choose the temperature on the fridge and freezer) and check that the fan on both fridge and freezer are working.

sounds like the drain is blocked and maybe your element is not located correctly

either a shorted out relay which is connectrd to the side of the compressor or wirings inside the compressor have shorted out ,relay is easy to check its under a plastic box cover on the sideof the compressor,pull it off and have a look for any burn marks or smell even shake it to see if it sounds all broken up inside is only a small unit if good then its time for a new fridge

so what is your question

the model number you have provided is not enough detail to depict which product you have. The model number you have provided pertains to so many different models, as many start with that. Perhaps providing the product ID would certainly help those who are knowledgable to give the required answer. E522BR - 519L bottom mount with hinge on right. Not knowing what active smart version it is, as the display could be at the rear of the interior, on the frotn right hand side or on a display panel on the door

Hi, From thee sounds of your issue you will need a sensor or a fan motor to move air from one section to another. Most likely this would be a fan motor located within the freezer section either not running or air flow is obstructed and can't leave the freezer section to enter through passages to cool the other section. Locate the air ports within the refer section, open freezer door (is there air coming out of air port in this section?). Now, close door to freezer, (is the same air flow still there?). If not you have an air flow restriction and this would need to be addressed. Good Luck, hit me up if you have more questions I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249