20 Most Recent Whirlpool LHW0050PQ Front Load Washer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hello-I came across this several years ago. Some whirlpools have a preprogram where the water temp. is already defaulted to the type of load and color. As you assume the white should be hot or warm. The rest of the selections are probably cold. The manufactures can be driven to apply energy saving features into their products so most cycles are probably cold. If all else fails, when you make a selection let water fill into the tub about 5 minutes and carefully check to see if the water is warmer or colder. You also might be able to pull up owners info on the net if you have the model#.

Hello- If the drum does not turn in either wash or spin I would check the belt drive.

F21 is:
LONG DRAIN
If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes the water valves turn off.
NOTES:
After 4 minutes the “Sd” error will be displayed, then
4 minutes later the “F/21” error code will be displayed.
Press PAUSE/CANCEL two times to clear the display.
Possible Causes/Procedure
1. Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or
kinked.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sure
the pump is running.
4. Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
5. Plug in washer or reconnect power.
6. If the above does not correct the problem, go to step 7.
7. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
8. Replace the pump.

Go here; http://laundry.manualsonline.com/ex/thread/view/idThread/2299742

Unit has internal heater, not adjustable

Sounds like you may have inadvertly had some other issue. Please check the folowing and get back to me.

• Check the circuit breaker or fuse box
• Test the outlet for current
• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Test the water level switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch
• Test the water inlet valve
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the motor

you need to check pump assembly for blockage, if there is a kick plate, the will be two or three screws and if the isn't you'll have to go through the back

Had one do this. Turn machine around look at bottom two corners. Machine comes with metal rods to stabilize drum during shipping. Installer forgot to pull those out on mine. Once I removed them noise quit.

replaced belt

check the lid hinge on the LH side. the screws will come loose and then will not always engage the lid switch.
tighten the screws and if you need to you can reach under the top where the hinge is and bend it backwards to get it to engage the switch. usually the screws will take care of it.

I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the machine ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and just happened to see that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video on youtube which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video (direct drive washer repair) made it possible for me to do my own repair. You probably don't have any idea of the wonderful help you can get from youtube videos. Your first stop should be at youtube. Just search for the help you need. You could search for "clothes dryer repair" or "clothes washer repair" or "dishwasher repair". If you are not able to view and/or download the videos, or after you've seen all you want to see, I suggest you go directly to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers, dryers. and dishwashers as well as other appliances. Another excellent site is www.acmehowto.com If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart these youtube videos are wonderful help. I was so impressed with them that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about the videos. If you look at the back of your top load washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove, which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video (direct drive washer repair) is just what you need. After you've seen all the appropiate videos, or if you have a belt drive washer, you will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good trouble shooting and repair nformation on most washers and dryers, dishwashers and many other household appliances. I think you'll find what you need there. Another excellent site for DIY help is www.acmehowto.com Don't worry about the timer on a washer, they hardly ever go bad. I realize I haven't solved your problem for you, but I hope I have sent you where you can get help to solve the problem. Good luck with it.

Make sure the door switch is working and that the door is properly closed. If this doesn't solve the problem a further request will give you the manual which contains the wiring diagram.

Hello, One of two thing's could be at fault. First is the possibility the unit isn't draining sufficiently, hence the unit will not allow the door to unlock...check for obstructions in the pump and insure the pump is pumping out/activating. The 2nd is the door microswitch/latch assembly is faulty or a loose connection/wire in the harness. If you run the unit through just a drain cycle and everything function's properly and drains completely, that leaves only the microswitch or the wiring harness connecting it to the control. Insure the switch has a firm connection via the harness at both control and the switch ends. If all that checks out you'll need the microswitch part # W10189551. It usually retail's between $50 & $70, so check around. Hope that help's. Thanks for visiting fixya today and good luck. Macmarkus :)

Sounds like there is an isolator broke within the unit, this can be either a sring or shock type of connection.

.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

chek ur whater temp on ur sicle and then if dont work just turn the taps fuul power

a front loader huh, usually there is an access panel at the bottom front held on with 2 screws. remove this panel and trhere should be a trap filter that is plugged up. remove filter and clean it out, than put it back. or the water pump is going bad try the filter first.

Does the washer make the noise's it should when progressing though the cycles (swish, swish, whirrrrrrr) if..........
Yes check the belt
No check the motor

Hi

The rinse cycle normally takes water in from your cold inlet valve.

To check and see if your cold inlet valve is faulty, turn off your hot water supply. Put the machine on a cold wash cycle and see how fills up. You can open the soap tray slightly while the machine is taking in water and check to see the pressure. If it drips in, then you need to change the inlet valve/solenoide. Repeat the process by putting the cycle on rinse only.

Some machines have a dual-valve or even triple-valve and use a seperate valve for the rinse. in that case you need to change the whole unit.

They are fairly easy to replace. Turn off machine and remove power from its plug. Open the top hatch. Two screws in the back of the top lid, or in some Whirpools a star nut. Pull lid back and up to remove.

See where the cold water hose screws on to the valve unit. take note of the wiring and hoses which come off it to the soap dispenser. You may want to take a picture so that you remember how to put the wiring back.

Remove the valve, most valves are screwed on to the back panel, but some whirlpools are clipped in. If it is a clip type, push the plastic stop in and twist to release it.

It is best if you get the replacement part before hand, so that you can replicate it straight away.

Good luck.

Ash

the most common problem is a broken DOG ASSEMBLY.

Pull off the softener dispenser
pull off the cap
take out the bolt
pull off the top of the agitator
you should see a broken plastic piece laying there
real cheap to buy one

next thing to check is the top door safety switch, does it click when you lower the door? Is the switch actuator broken off of the door?

Anything else is EXPENSIVE to fix.

check to see lid switch is making contact... when you close lid it should push down on a switch ..try pushing this down lightly with a pencil