Quick tips....Slow or
no spin....
Lid open.
Lid switch defective. ( Very
Common problem )
Lid switch disconnect plug
open/burnt.
Clothes between basket and
outer tank.
Lint filter caught between
the wash basket and outer holding tank.
Wiring harness.
Bad motor capacitor ( How
to check )
Weak clutch.
Timer switches. (
possible not allowing the pause required for the transmission to set up to
spin )
Motor.
Cam driver on basket drive
broken or basket drive weak.
Spin tube.
Notches in drive block worn
out and not engaging basket drive shaft.
Broken motor coupling. See
Replacing Motor Coupler Page
If your washer will not spin...first thing is to consider
if washer is RUNNING and not spinning or NOT RUNNING and not spinning. If the washer is
NOT running ( or working intermittently ) check lid switch for continuity.
Broken lid switch arm and the lid switch probe should be checked as well.
Something NEW to check for when looking at that lid
switch. Always a good idea to check for clothing between the tanks as well.
Make sure nothing has gone through one of the inner basket holes and is now
scrapping or jamming the tub from moving, such items may be a nail, pin, bra
under wire.
Read
a bit on how the washer works as well.
If washer IS running, remove
power and remove cabinet. Use a piece of insulated wire to by-pass the lid
switch wires, turn the timer to spin and pull out the knob, push the knob back in and pull
it out again. Watch for the clutch drum to turn ( brown section in picture A ). If it is turning but the inner wash tub is not,
then more often than not you have a worn clutch lining or a weak spin spring, also the
brake may have seized up. If the clutch drum is not turning and washer is not spinning, often
the failure is in the transmission gear box. ( see picture B ).
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