Top 10 Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

I had the same problem with this washer. It was the lid switch.

thatss what it sounds like to me the motor simply turned off on overload( giving that electrical, almost burnt rubber smell.) either that or it was overloaded as well as overworked. i wouldnt see any reason for concern, unless was happenig on regular basis

If you have not taken the exterior washer casing off, the first steps will explain how to accomplish this:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Once the casing is removed, you should have full access the the washer interior components. Since you have mentioned you taken the "internal post" off (I'm assuming this is your agitator), I will spare the steps in involved in accomplishing that task.

Next, follow these series of steps:

1. Remove the tub ring. This is the cylindrical donut shaped ring attached to the top of the wash tub. This ring needs to be removed in order to accommodate the removal of the inner spin basket. The tub ring comes off by placing a screwdriver under the series of the tabs that hold it in place and GENTLY prying them up until they release. Be careful not to break off the tabs, or crack the wash tub.

2. Remove the spanner nut that is under the agitator. This holds the inner spin basket to center post.

3. With the spanner nut removed, the spin basket should lift straight up and out. Sometimes the basket will stick to the center-post and may required some "coaxing" to get it free. This can be accomplished by grabbing the rim of the spin basket and prying up on one side, then the other, in an attempt to rock the basket side to side.

Searspartsdirect.com has excellent exploded view diagrams that you can use as a reference. Simply type in your model number and look under the "Agitator, Basket and Tub" heading. The tub ring gasket, I mention below, is listed as item 6. Appliancepartspros.com also has these same drawings.

Some things to consider:

If you remove the tub ring, it is recommended that you replace the seal on the ring before reassembly. Once the tub seal is broken, it can leak if the seal is not replaced.

When reinstalling the exterior cabinet, follow these steps:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

If you have questions, or need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS What is the reason for removing the spin basket? Anything else I can help you with?

LXR9245EQ1
Thanks for giving the correct model number.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=257320

Click on the diagrams in the left-hand side. You can print them out also. They will show how the unit is assembled.

Go to;
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/modelsearch.aspx?model=LSQ9564J

Click on the model that matches your machine.
The new window will give an assembly diagram of your machine. Clink on the diagrams on the left-hand side for different assemblies.

Hi Greg,
The symptom you described tells me that the "shoes" have gone to appliance parts heaven and need to be replaced. Trust me, the "sump" is most definitely NOT to blame... top loaders don't even HAVE a sump!

First you'll have to do a little homework... Start by clicking here and look at part number 18 (there are 3 separate pieces and come as a set). The part number is 285744. You can get them from a local appliance parts outfit or order them online <---just type the part number into your favorite search engine. You'll also notice that the shoes are inside the cabinet, that means the cabinet will have to be removed to get to 'em. OK... just watch this video to learn how to do that.

ALWAYS UNPLUG THE WASHER PRIOR TO SERVICING IT!


After you have the parts, you'll notice they have little "pegs" on them. These pegs snap into the pedestal (refer back to the link above). That means your old ones have be snapped OUT, right? Here's the way I do it...

(Assuming you have the cabinet removed) Start at one of the 3 pedestal supports and do one at a time. Use a large screwdriver and pry the 2 plates apart, then I use a hammer handle (because I carry hammers with me and they're handy) and insert it between the 2 plates to keep 'em separated. Now from under the pedestal, tap the pegs of the old shoes to pop them out. Now take one of your new parts and simply place the pegs into the holes. (NOTE!!! Don't try snapping it in right now, 'cause you'll break it!) Now that the shoe is in place (and not snapped in) just remove the hammer handle and allow the upper plate to drop down onto the newly installed shoe. (You'll snap all of them into place at the end of all this, OK?) Now do the same thing with the other 2 shoes.

OK, now that all 3 shoes are in, you'll now snap them into place. Do this by standing in front of the washer above one of the pedestal legs. Place both hands on top of the plastic tub and with a quick, forceful motion push sharply down. You'll here the shoe snap in. Do this on all 3 corners. (TECH NOTE---> Doing it this way ensures that pressure is evenly applied across the entire top of the new shoes preventing them from breaking) After that's done, grab a flashlight and look under the pedestal at each of the shoes to inspect and ensure that the pegs fully seated, if not... repeat the "push down" technique until all pegs are fully seated.

All that's left now is to rebuild the washer! I know it sounds like a tough job, but if you have all your tools ready and all goes well... you're looking at about 45 minutes.

Don't forget to rate this solution, OK?

SG

It sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. This is a very inexpensive and simple repair.

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.

If you have motor sounds after water fill,but no agitation or spin it could be a broken direct drive coupling. If it will not pump out water,there could be something stuck in the drain pump.

The Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J has a capacity of 3.2 cubic feet. Manuals for several of these washers are available from Whirlpool support: http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/product_literature/search_results.jsp?form_state=literatureSearch&context=&siteCd=WHRCOM&form_state=literatureSearch&searchTerm=LSQ9564J . The direct link for the English version of the manual for the LSQ9564JQ0 is: http://www.kitchenaid.ca/assets/pdfs/literature/Use%20and%20Care%20Guide%20-%203953953.pdf .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless you
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out. To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job. If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump. It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems: If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.