20 Most Recent Whirlpool LTE5243D Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Might be a spring or the skate plate out of alignment.Thin twin service manual is in this apartment series service manual:http://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B5If-wTgYWH5ZDgzODI5MjYtMWNmYS00MWZkLTk0ODEtNjM3MTIyYzVmZWVl&hl=en If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

check the lid switch,open the lid and on the right side you'll see a hole in the top panel,stick a screw driver in it,push down,you should hear a click,or close the lid and open it a couple of inches and close it,do this a few times,no clicking sound bad lid switch.

Sounds like you need to replace the timer on the washer.Here is the part you need.

Hello,
On that stack washer/dryer the wayto get to lid switch is
remove diagonal panel between washer and control panel
in the back of washer top will either be 2 brass colored clips or in the very back egde of top will be 2 5/16th inch hexhead screws
for clips place a small screwdriver in front of that clip and pop clips off and slide top forward
for the screws remove screws from behind top in the left/right corner..pull top forward a bit and lift up a little the plug for the lid switch will be in front right side..squeeze the release for that plug,unplug swicth plug then remove top

in both cases lid switch asm. will be on right side of top on the underpart of it

Gene

The spanner nut is standard thread to loosen/remove it turn it to the LEFT,you do need a spanner wrench like the one pictured here Part number for that spanner wrench is TB123A It can be purchased at your local appliance parts store or online at;
searspartsdirect.com
repairclinic.com
apdepot.com
midwestapplianceparts.com
apwagner.com

You will need to replace the lid switch. Here is a link to the part you need. Here is a service manual that will help you do the repair. The model may be a little different, but is basically the same unit.

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101';
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If the model number is correct, the dryer End of Cycle signal cannot be adjusted or turned off. The informatrion is listed on page 11 of the Owner's Manual:

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/16695/WHIRLPOOL-Laundry-Centers-L0710382?brand_name_search=LTE5243D

The only way to turn the signal off, is to remove the operator console, locate the signal (buzzer) module and disconnect the wire(s). The buzzer is listed as item 32 under the "Washer/Dryer Control Panel" parts listing:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Whirlpool-Parts/Washer-dryer-combo-Parts/Model-YLTE5243DQ2/1198/0152000/W0702346/00001?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

CAUTION: If you choose this option, make sure you UNPLUG the washer/dryer before servicing anything inside. If you disconnect any wires, make sure you cover them with heat shrink or electrical tape to keep them from coming into contact with anything else.

The washer and dryer use a common power source, but the rest of the functions operate independently of each other. You can safely run both units at the same time.

If need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Hello,3355806

The problem i find most often with that sympthon (espicially if it agitates) that the lid switch is defective. To access the lid switch remove the diagonal panel between the control panel and washer then remove washer top by finding the 5/16" hex headed screws in the rear of the panel then and slide top forward and off. I have included a link that when opened will show you a image of the top,item 5 is the screw that holds the top to cabinet and item 13 is the lid switch. So the machine may be used till you can get the new switch asm.,you could TEMPORARLY bypass the switch by cutting and splicing together the two dark colored wires, sometimes they are grey and sometimes they are black but in any case they are the wires that fit in the ends of the plug on the back of the top, leave the green wire attached to the top The part number for the switch assambly is 3355806 it could be found online by simply googling that part number
Here is the link to the image of the top http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/W0902093-00006.png

mc1bean

• Rank: Guru
• Rating: 96%, 394 Votes

I see many questions about washing machines that do not spin. There can be many reasons and it is impossible to cover everything that can happen with every make and model. I will attempt to cover the basic things that can happen with the majority of the washing machines that have been sold. First thing to check if your washer is not pumping or spinning is to see if the motor is running. If the motor is not running then check the pesky lid switch. When the lid gets slammed it hammers that switch and eventually will bend it or break it completely. Some washers will wash but not spin or pump, others will do nothing. This switch is located under the lid on the edge of the frame around the lid. Often there is a hole that a pin from the lid will go through and push on a lever that is the switch. Check that it is not simply bent, so that it does not trip the switch inside anymore. To change or check the switch the top will need to be raised or the front removed. Getting to it, is often harder then the replacement. If the motor is running then you may have a broken pump belt or a broken or frozen pulley. If the belt is broken replace it. To check the pulley, remove the belt and then check to see if the pulley turns freely. If it does not, replace it. If you are pumping, but not spinning, then you will need to again check the lid switch. Next on the list is the motor coupling. Many washers made are actually Whirlpool. These washers all use a coupler that is made of plastic and rubber and they will wear out after some time. This couples the motor to the transmission. If it breaks it will need to be replaced. Other machines use belts. These belts can become stretched and then will not grip the pulleys to spin them at the proper speed. This also will often give that burning rubber smell. Be sure to replace these belts with washing machine belts as they are specially made for this purpose and are often not the same as regular automotive belts. Drive motors are often a source of trouble. These motors often run in forward and reverse. They spin one way to agitate and the other to spin. Just because it works in one direction, does not mean that the other direction cannot be burnt out. This often happens and just because ?it works? people think the motor is okay. The motor still needs to be replaced if either direction goes bad. GE manufactured washers use a clutch system. This slowly bring the spin cycle up to speed as the water goes out of the washer. When this becomes worn the spin will not be as fast or may not spin at all. If your clutch needs to be replaced, you may want to hire that out as it is quite a project for most DIY?ers. The final problem would be the bearing or basket drive. This gets worn or even will get tight so that the basket will not spin freely. If this goes bad you will usually have excessive noise when the washer spins. This too is a project that you may want help with. As you can see there are many things that can go wrong to make problems with the spin cycle of a washer. You will have to do some detective work to figure out exactly what the problem is with your washing machine. Thanks Mike From Fixya

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

It would appear that either the heating element is malfunctioning, maybe poor electrical contact or broken, or it is not being commanded to operate.
I fear your only option is that it requires a service engineer's attention ;-0(

If this has assisted and/or clarified the situation for you please consider a 4 thumbs up on our rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
I would gently suggest as a first step that you clean the drain motor/pump lint tray/filter. So many 'faults' are caused by blocked filters and many machines will not even go to rinse or spin or release the door lock if there is any water still left inside.
Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.Well to take it off there are two screws one on each side under the control panel all you have to do is grab them one at a time with pliers pull down and at same time pop the control forward and down. to put back flip the control up pull down on each screw and pop back in place.Do not remove the screws.
Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101
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Throw it out or put towels underneath it

With a serial number I can get you the information you seek.

Kelly

You need to check the suspension of the washer, it could be pads, suspension springs, or even the shocks.

It is so common that the drain leaks in many ways and is the most problematic fault in a washing machine.This fault indicated can be due to failure of the water level sensors causing overflow but in all occasions it is important that your observation is most important and so is vital to the identification /rectification and solution. If you have noticed that water has leaked then as the drain hose pump/valve and fittings are located on the underside of the machine it is important that you look for possible leaks here. In some cases the drain hose would be clogged at the drain end to outlet of the house and so there will be back flushing resulting in overflow to the outside. Also the drain pump/valve can be clogged or the drain hose clamps can be loose on the grip which can all cause the leak to occurs. Removing and Cleaning the drain pump/valve, tightening of the hose is also very important. Also water can leak if there is gaps on the front door gaskets and must be checked but this will happen only during the cycle and not on the drain cycle end.