20 Most Recent Whirlpool LXR9445JT Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

Does it fill and agitate but when it gets to the spin cycle it just sits there?

dont buy whirlpool, my machine same style is getting bleach on my other clothes some how.

Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,

Here are my complete and generic guidance notes for checking both the drain motor filter and the drain motor ;-0)
If you are unsure where the filter is, it is often behind the front lower (kick) panel (or in some machines at the rear in an awkward position!). These panels are either held on by (plasic) screws or will just pull off. Most filters are held in by a round cover/knob. Sometimes the filter will not come out with the cover and you will have to persuade it to come out to play.

REMOVE POWER AND ENSURE YOU HAVE A WATER RECEPTACLE/RAGS TO SOAK UP THE WATER WHICH IS BOUND TO POUR OUT (alternatively use a wet vac as sensibly suggested by VinnyB1234!)
It's surprising what people have found in theirs! It is always worthwhile checking it on a regular basis.
Now- whilst the filter is removed it is normally possible to see the drain motor and ensure it is not jammed by a foreign object such as a needle or a toothpick. It should be able to be turned by hand/finger- the power IS OFF!
At this point it is also possible to test if the motor works. No clothes or water in the machine, select a spin cycle and put the power back on. You should be able to see the motor turning at some point, possibly straight away. Using something suitable like a glove see if it is easy to briefly slow the motor down. If it is easy then the motor is malfunctioning.

If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck!
John C

Hi

Two things can cause this issue....first it can either be due to a clogged or bad drain pump assembly which won't allow the timer to complete the cycle. Second, the timer itself can be bad and is not completing the cycle. You'll have to clean the drain pump assembly first, if the issue returns after cleaning and the drain pump is working fine then it is the timer that should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

You have what bad "agitator dogs". Yes this is a stripped out part. To get to the dogs, you will need to take the fabric softener dispenser off the top of the agitator (if your unit does not have a dispenser, then just take the cover of the agitator). Under that you will see a semi transparent cap that fits inside the shaft of the agitator, pull that straight up and out of the agitator. Now you can see the bolt that hold the agitator to the transmission shaft, this is a 1/2" or 9/16" bolt. You will need a socket with a long extension to reach this. Take a digital picture, or sketch the position of the dogs inside the agitator, this will help with the reassembly process. Once the bolt is out, the agitator will lift off. Turn the agitator upside down and depress the tabs up inside the shaft of the agitator, this will release the top of the agitator from the bottom, be careful, there are small parts that will fall out. Try to separate it in one piece, as this will make it easier to reassemble. Once separated, remove the old dogs and replace with the new, reassemble in reverse. When tightening the bolt, only tighten snug, the black rubber gasket should not bulge out when tightened. Also make sure the "o" ring on the semi transparent cover is in place and not broken. If you have questions, write me back. Hope this helps!

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often interrelated..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out thistip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkoutthis tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

the selector knob has finally taken a dump and needs to be replaced the part number you need is gonna be located on the back of the selector without a model number i have no way of looking it up for you

REPLACE YOUR MOTOR COUPLING

The pump that pulls the water out into the drain pipe is not working. Could be that something is clogging the pump. I've seen small items such as handerchiefs or baby socks are sucked down into the pump via an over flow duct at the top of the tub. The pump is probably below the tub and at the rear of the washer. You'll have to take the pipes off and check to see if there is something stuck in the pump.

Hello there,

If it doesn't spin or drain, you probably have a bad lid switch. If the machine fills up with water and does not do anything after then it's the lid switch.

Best of luck to you.

Whirlpool has a split agitator design. The upper portion is called the auger, while the bottom is called the agitator. Between these components is a agitator cam assembly. This problem is commonly caused by worn agitator dogs or the agitator cam assembly. The following link explains what the dogs are and how to replace them:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3608577-replacing_agitator_dogs

The part number is included in the link provided. You can purchase replacements at pcappliancerepair.com for about $5. For a little more you can purchase the entire cam replacement kit, which includes the cam, the thrust bearing, and the dogs. For the model number you have listed, the part number for the kit is 285811 and sells for about $11.

NOTE: You can refer to the excellent exploded view parts diagrams the web site has to offer for assistance. Whirlpool also recommends the application of a little grease on the thrust washer. The part number for their recommended grease is AP3098553.

If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: DO NOT overtighten the agitator bolt. This can cause damage to the plastic, or restrict the agitator movement. Tighten until snug only.

If this is a Whirlpool top loader such as the one you have this question posted under, you must remove the exterior washer case to access the internal components. This will give you a better access to view where any leak may be coming from. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

If the leak is coming from the front of the washer, most commonly this is caused by a leaking drain pump. The pump is located in the front directly below the wash tub. The pump is not serviceable and must be replaced if it is damaged.

Some other items to consider:

1. Check your fill hoses to ensure they are tight and not leaking. What can often appear as a washer problem, may be a loose hose.

2. With the washer case removed, check the area UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. Inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine epoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. If the water is gushing out of the bottom of the washer, check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

NOTE: The ends on the air hose can become stretched over time. If you have enough slack in the hose, you can snip off a small portion of the end and reattach it to make sure it fits snug. If not, attach the hose to the air dome and place a zip tie around it where it connects to the air dome fitting. Make the zip tie snug enough to keep the hose from slipping off. Do not overtighten.

If you need an illustration of your washer and components, searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, or pcappliancerepair.com usually have some excellent exploded view diagrams that you can refer to.

If you determine the pump is damaged and needs replaced, the following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r397092-replacing_water_pump

Prices can vary between these sites so shop and compare. NOTE: Use the part number from the Sears site and use it to "Search by Part Number" on the other sites. It makes it easier to find as some sites may not have your model number listed, but will still carry the part.

To reinstall the washer casing, follow these steps to ensure you get the case correctly placed and secure on the frame:

1. With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this information is helpful.

NOTE: You can also order a repair manual for about $20 (part number 1170635) at repairclinic.com if you need more instructions.

There is no trick to replacing a worn gearbox seal.
It is the job for a skilful and sorry.........has to be paid......Techo!

Obstruction in pump If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Check the motor and make sure that the RPMs are high enough, Also check the tension on the belt

Im no expert, just pretty handy with all things mechanical...hope this helps:

http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/whirlpool-parts/Whirlpool-Washing-Machine-Parts/Whirlpool-Parts-LSQ9200LQ0/Whirlpool-Parts-82574.cfm

You either have a defective pressure switch or water inlet valve. Start to fill the machine with warm water so that both solenoids on the water inlet valve (hot and cold) are activated. After about 30-60 seconds, push the timer knob in to stop water flow. If the water continues to flow, replace the water inlet valve. If this is the case, it may take a few times of starting and stopping water flow to allow solenoid to heat up and become symptomatic. If water flow stops abruptly each time knob is pushed in, you most likely have a defective pressure switch (water level switch).

Two part question, two part solution (I hope). First the Whirlpool, most of the drain problems I have encountered with the Whirlpool top loaders can be attributed to a few things: 1. Defective Lid Switch - washer will fill normally, but will stop suddenly when it begins to agitate. The tub will remain filled with water and will not drain. Cost: about $30. 2. Defective Motor Coupling - Since you mentioned washing a blanket, heavier loads can put some wear and tear on the motor coupling, and wear them out. The couplings from the manufacturer are usually comprised of all of plastic and have been known to strip. After market couplers have a steel grommet in the center to prevent this. Symptoms: Washer will fill, but will not agitate. You will hear a loud rattling noise during the wash cycle with the drum remaining still. The tub will still drain sometimes, but won't spin. Cost: about $15 3. Clogged Drain Pump - Located inside the machine under the wash tub in the front. The pump is small (white of gray plastic) with two hoses connected to it. The pump does not come apart, so you will have to remove the hoses to inspect inside. If your tub is full of water, however, a wet/dry shop-vac will come in handy to remove the water, FIRST!. Symptoms: Washer will fill and agitate, but will not drain during the rinse or spin cycle. If clogged, severely, the pump shaft connecting to the drive motor will strip and the pump will need to be replaced. Cost: about $40. Now...the Kenmore. Fill problems where the water does not shut off are usually attributed to a bad pressure switch. The pressure switch would be the load level selector on the console. Before you call the switch bad and order a new one, however, inspect the clear plastic hose from the switch all the way to the bottom of the wash tub. This is known as an "air-dome" hose and sometimes will crack or develop holes in them. If the air is allowed to escape from the hose, the air pressure will never be substantial enough to shut the pressure switch off. It may be an easy fix of just replacing a rubber hose. Good luck and I hope this helps you.