20 Most Recent Whirlpool AWM8143 Front Load Washer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

got this from another site....


Starting to see these fault codes pop up in these otherwise fine machines. The F/11 code is just a generic code generated when there’s a communications error between the two main control boards in the washer. These two boards are the motor control unit(MCU) and the central control unit(CCU).
A common problem is the wiring harness jiggling loose; remove and reseat it and that usually fixes it. If not, then you’re looking at spending some money on control boards. Yes, I said boards, plural. The really sucky part is that there’s no way to definitively and conclusively prove which board, the MCU or the CCU, is at fault so, unfortunately, that only leaves the parts changing monkey method: replace both boards,


But, on a brighter note, the electronics are covered under warranty for 24 months. If your machine is older that this, then you’ll need to shell out some shekels


tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

F-11 like a Kenmore means communication error between the motor control and the main control. Check connections, unplug and replug computer connections and see if problem persists. I've seen cases where either board or even both can be bad.

Unfortunately with front loaders, this is a problem. There's really no sure fire way to avoid damaging the boot, but not overloading it will reduce the risk. Also, empty pockets before laundry. Change or anything sharp can wear and tear on the rubber.

this is what is called an Overflow failure error code. you will need to check or replace the pressostat.

i would quit using powder soap and use the HE soap.I would take the soap dispenser out and clean it out and also clean out behind the dispenser.run just water thru machine or try washer magic to clean out the machine.you can find washer magic at most home depots or lowes or even a appliance parts house.

remove bottom panel torx or 7 mm nut driver needed.pump has "knob" turn counter clock wise ..have plenty of towels handy to unlock door first reach up to bottom of door lock tear shaped plastic tab pull down door will open

It is extremly difficult to change the seal and or bearings on a front load washer.

I'm a sears technician, and it is a 2 hour job for two of us to do it, and we know what has to come off and have done it, several times.

The cost of the job, is approx $450 for parts and labour.

remove pump and check pump for foreign objects stopping impellor turning, worked for me hope this helps

The pump is at the lower left of the front of the machine covered by a white plate. Use a bowl to catch any remaining water when opening the screw thread inside and then clean and replace. If it is truely beyond repair then a new filter pump can be bought from ebay for £3 or thereabouts.

I have just drained mine manually in this way and am going to run it empty with soda crystals to glean a few more days use whilst the new pump arrives.

Good luck :)

hi Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new timer yourself.

Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull a wire by hand.

Step 2: To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.thank u....please rate it

Have you tried running it empty on the longest cycle at the hottest temperatute with bi-carb instead of soap

:-) Actually that was one of the other symptoms of the F06 problem; our machine started banging and walking all over the laundry, which it never did before.  After I fixed the timer, it never did it again.  All I can figure is that when the timer was getting erratic information from the tacho, it would spin the drum too hard or something while it was waiting for the tacho to give a signal.

Troubleshooting the problem was a real pain in the **** because each time I took the washer apart to test it, the problem seemed to magically go away.  Sometimes it would do a whole cycle without any problems, and sometimes it would F06 six times in a row.  In the end that was one of the clues that helped me figure out it was a cracked solder joint.

Anyway good luck with the yours.  Thanks for the tip about FA F9, I'll remember that one...

Turn off machine, wait 2 mins turn back on, set it to drain. Door will then open.

FA is the emergency shutoff switch that detects when water is pooling underneath the machine -> a leak.
"Check float switch under machine, empty any water from catchment tray, check for water leaks or oversudsing".

I had this same problem, an intermittent F06 fault.  The F06 code means a tachometer fault.  After some fault-finding, I did manage to fix it.  If this error code happens to you and you know a bit about electronics, try taking apart the timer and looking for dry joints between the main board and the perpendicularly-mounted microprocessor board. Over time vibration can cause the soldered joints between the two boards to crack and fail intermittently. 10 minutes to disassemble plus 2 minutes with a soldering iron could save you a $400 repair bill.
The service manual is available for download on the web if you google hard enough.  If you have a CRO available, the tacho waveform should be a nicely-formed sine wave with a frequency proportional to the RPM.

Try replacing the brushes this may solve the problem

Turn off the machine and un plug, checked half hour later and the door opened.

it's a communication error between the ccu and the mcu (motor ctl unit). i've seen lots of problems with the mcu.

hi,

i have a whirlpool 6th sense washing machine, it has come up with clean pump, does anyone know where the pump is on the machine, as i have lost my instruction manual.

regards

jackie