Hi there. We have a Whirlpool LER4634J model dryer that now refuses to heat at all. We've noticed over the past few weeks that sometimes it'll take two cycles to dry thoroughly, but today there's no heat at all coming from it. We had a power outage last night for a few minutes. Does that have anything to do with it?
This can be due to malfunctioning of any of these 4 devices..
1)Heating element
2)Thermal fuse
3)Thermostat
4)Timer motor
For more info and troubleshooting checkout this link..
http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-heat+repair.htm
Posted on Oct 22, 2007
the dryer shuts off after getting hot, then after it cools down it will start back up when start button is pushed, but only runs for about a minute untl it shuts off again
most likely cause is the air duct is blocked with lint, some always gets past the screen and builts up in the exhaoust line. not enough air flow, the air gets hotter than normal and trips the over temperature cutout.
for most dryers
clear the fan, and exhaust ducting all the way to the wall, and the outside vent hood, of lint
Posted on Sep 22, 2008
a lighter fell down the lint trap door
i take it that its door on the top of the dryer ? if so that means u will have to pull the rear pannel off the dryer unless u can get lucky n " fish " it out with a coat hanger
Posted on Jan 02, 2009
figured out how to get the front off the LG dryer and now can't find the reset button to reset it. My dryer will not heat up whirlpool model number LER4634JQ1
Probably is no reset button on/in the dryer. Go here for more info on no heat in the dryer: Dryer Repair Help
www.RepairClinic.com
Posted on Feb 05, 2009
whirlpool dryer Model #leq8858hq1 is making noise. I had turned the drum manually Did I cause a problem?
window.google_render_ad();There are many places & parts that could be causing your Whirlpool
dryer to be noisy.
To find out what is causing the noises, you
need to find out where are the noises coming from.
Start the dryer and let it run for a while and listen to try to
pinpoint where in the dryer the noises is coming from. Once you have
an idea of the area, you will need to disconnect the dryer from the
wall outlet and take the dryer apart.
Below you will find the parts that you need to check when your
dryer is noisy.
The drum baffles:
The drum baffles are use to tumble the clothes inside of
the drum, in other words, the baffles job is to separate the pieces
of laundry as the drum turns.
When the dryer is getting older and if you use the dryer a lot,
the drum baffles holding screws will become loose. Loose drum
baffles will cause noises. All you need to do, is to open the top
panel and tighten the drum baffles holding screws.
The drum support rollers:
These dryers uses four drum support rollers, tow on the
front and two on the rear. The job of the drum support rollers is to
keep the drum tumbling smooth.
When the grease on one of the rollers dry out, the roller start
to make squeaking noises and the roller bearing will start to wear
out until the bearing on the roller is gone. When the bearing on the
roller is gone, the noise will change from squeaking to a clanking
noise.
The blower wheel:
The blower wheel is use to circulate the air inside of
the dryer drum. The most common Whirlpool blower noises are cause by
something falling inside of the blower housing and hitting the
blower when the motor runs.
The Idler pulley:
The Idler pulley is use to apply the necessary tension on
the belt. There are two types of idler pulleys, the pulley with the
wheel and the pulley with the teflon slide. A bad idler pulley could
cause a Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
The drive motor:
Worn out bearings on the motor will cause the motor to
run kind of noisy. When the motor starts making noises, the solution
to this problem is to replace the motor.
The belt:
The belt on most dryers is only about1/4 inch wide. These
belts work very hard making the drum tumble. When the belt stretch
just 1/2 inch more that it supposed to, the belt will start slipping
and that could cause your Whirlpool dryer to be noisy.
As you could see, there are a lot of parts that could become
noisy in your dryer. When your dryer starts making noises, make sure
to check it out before it gets worse.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
My dryer does not heat. Fuse, thermostats, heat element all have continuity, power chord is good, 240v at plugin... stumped. It is a model # LER4634BQ1 Whirlpool SN# ME4471484
Heating Element
It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
Thermal Fuse
Another possible cause for a dryer not heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
Thermostat
If any of your dryer's thermostats have become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
Timer motor
A defective timer motor could also cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor assembly, or just its motor.
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
Whirlpool Duet GEW9250PW0 dryer
It stopped producing heat. I unplugged and replugged it in and it worked again for maybe two cycles. Now no heat at all. I read another post and replaced the Thermal cut-off, part AP3094323, that did not fix it so then I replaced the heater element part AP2947033, that did not fix it either. I am tired of guessing as it is costing me money replacing good parts. There are no error codes produced by the dryer. It runs just no heat. There are no clogs in the dryer hose, vents or anywhere. I want to buy the Thermistor and or the thermal fuse. At this point not much else to replace but each wrong guess costs me money and time. HELP
Symptom: Electric Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat
Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block.
The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC.
The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms.
This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord.
Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer.
Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason.
You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation.
If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing.
All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail.
This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH.
When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home.
It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.
If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.
RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER.
After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer.
This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not.
Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it.
If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely.
I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires.
These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step.
If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits.
If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips.
They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side.
If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel.
(HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier).
If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models.
This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component.
NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time.
They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
Posted on Sep 21, 2010
My dryer is making a clicking sound when it is turned off. It sounds sort of like the timer or something. Seems to be working fine otherwise.
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.
If you have a front loading machine,
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch.
Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt.
Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm
pulley and motor.
Now is a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the
idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go
to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots
or wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably
only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade
of machine oil such as 3 in One oil.
Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.
Please rate me
Posted on Dec 11, 2010
LER4634EQO Whirlpool Heavy Duty Extra Large Capacity 4 cycle 3 temptures My dryer is not heating. I have checked the breaker(s). There is not much lint around the dryer in the back or the vent, what there was I have cleaned up.
The
problem is likely in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit
thermostat located on the heating element housing. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access
the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect
the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it
properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is
indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if
the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem.
It is an easy and cheap repair to make.
The thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit
thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30.
In case the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit
thermostat bypassed, bypass the cycling thermostat then replace it if the
dryer heats up. Check the heating element for broken coils if the dryer
still doesn't heat up with the three components mentioned above
bypassed.
Posted on Feb 11, 2011
Whirlpool Senseon dryer control panel won't work
Could you please explain the problem in depth for me? Not sure what you mean by the control panel not working. Is it getting power? Do you have lights on inside the dryer (if it is equipped with it)?
Posted on Oct 16, 2012
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