20 Most Recent Whirlpool LER6636PW Electric Dryer Questions & Answers


Corwyn, looks like the problem you are having is not with the dryer. The vent line is probably clogged up, which caused the moisture to stay inside the dryer. To make sure this is a vent problem, you can disconnect the vent hose behind the dryer and run it for one load with it disconnected. If it runs fine, then the vent line needs cleaning. Usually it needs special equipment and is very hard to do yourself. It would cost you around $90 to get a professional out to do it for you. Gendos....post back.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jan 23, 2018


Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 02, 2011


Hi,

Here is a tip that will help you with how to clean that dishwasher up and get it smelling good again...

Dishwasher Maintenance
heatman101

Whirlpool... | Answered on Jun 02, 2011


I would disconnect the vent tube and run the dryer, if it dries then the vent tube is still restricted. To clean the inside out you will need to remove the door, here is a website that will assist you, Tim:

http://www.partselect.com/dryer+wont-dry-clothes+repair.htm

Whirlpool... | Answered on Mar 13, 2011


ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
This is a FREE answer, Please rate me

Whirlpool... | Answered on Dec 31, 2010


Hello- Check to see if the door switch is broken. You should see a little lever coming out of the top of the frame where the top of the door meets the frame. This lever gets depressed by the door. If the door switch is ok then you should have someone out to take a look at it. You also may not be getting 220V through the outlet but if you have already reset the breaker this is less likely. Good luck, best regards.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Sep 27, 2010


Not heating at all, First check the power that goes to it, and make sure you have 220 volts to the unit 110 each side of breaker that supplies power to it, if you do then see if you have power to the elements, it is probally the heating elements, be safe and have a good meter to check the oower with, if it is the elements you can order of e bay and they will ship them to your door just put in the correct numbersm thks larry let me know

Whirlpool... | Answered on Apr 23, 2010


overloding or keeping the clothes inside too long after cycle ends....also check venting for kinks or clogs

Whirlpool... | Answered on Apr 16, 2010


the heat sensor maybe bad or the timer has burnt out
you will need to have it checked out

Whirlpool... | Answered on Feb 27, 2010


first check the door switch,then check the main fuse behind the back panel to your left-mike

Whirlpool... | Answered on Feb 26, 2010


If your dryer is heating, but you are experiencing longer dry times and poor drying efficiency, the following link can give you some items to check before you assume there is a malfunction with your dryer:

https://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is poor exhaust ventilation. If not vented properly, a dryer will not dry efficiently, will take longer than required to dry, and will cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. The dryer will actually seem hotter as the heating circuits begin to overheat. This is also the source of many fire hazards if not resolved. Read through the link provided and review some of the potential causes.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. Please include your MODEL NUMBER (if it is different from the one you listed this question under), so I can determine how your dryer is configured. I hope you find this information is helpful.

NOTE: If you thoroughly check everything and still have problems let me know. The problem could be related to a thermostat beginning to fail.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Feb 20, 2010


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

https://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace both components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.

Whirlpool... | Answered on Oct 15, 2009


check the door switch and the main fuse on the blower box(you have to remove the back panel-mike

Whirlpool... | Answered on Mar 15, 2009


the dryer is not the problem the problem is the house vent it is restricted some where

Whirlpool... | Answered on May 03, 2008


If it has been working and suddenly, have this problem it could very well be the child lock has been activated.

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Nov 10, 2019

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