20 Most Recent Whirlpool LGR6611L Gas Dryer - Page 7 Questions & Answers


Check the pump in the lower part of the machine. It maybe clogged or broken.

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Sep 27, 2018


The cabinet may have a block-off plate intended to allow side venting.

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Sep 10, 2018


Bad heating element or thermal fuse.

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Sep 05, 2018


With the toe panel off, you can check to see whether the drive belt is broken.

If the drive belt is okay, then you can check the thermal fuse for continuity. The location of the thermal fuse on the blower housing is illustrated in the second image below. To check this fuse (with the dryer still unplugged), pull one wire off of the fuse and measure the resistance across the leads of the fuse with a volt/ohm meter. You should measure near zero ohms of resistance (continuity) if the fuse is good. If you measure infinite resistance (open), then the fuse is blown and will need to be replaced.

NOTE: If the thermal fuse was blown, check the exhaust vent air flow through your dryer. Clean the lint screen. Wash the lint screen with water and thoroughly dry it if you use dryer softener sheets. Check the flexible vent behind your dryer for kinks or clogs. Check the exhaust vent duct to the outside of your home for restrictions. You may need to have a cleaning service clear this duct.

If both of these components are okay, you could also have a failed drive motor, a bad electronic control board or a wiring failure between components

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Aug 16, 2018


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Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Aug 12, 2018



Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Whirlpool Dryers | Answered on Aug 08, 2018

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